Car got installed with a bunch of new parts and is at the alignment shop. The alignment settings are way over the top aggressive and no one can figure out why. Parts are brand new and installed by a reputable shop. Why are my camber and caster so extreme? The car is at the same ride height. Spoon stuff is supposed to be less aggressive than the Hardrace stuff as well.

Just recently installed the following parts:
Ohlins DFV coilovers
Spoon Front Offset Ball Joints
Spoon Zero Front Anti Bumpsteer Kit
Spoon Subframe Rigid Collars
Spoon Rear Toe Arms
Hardrace Rear RCA's
OEM Front tie rods
Advan AD08R 235/40/17
1 finger gap all around

Alignment Settings with above parts:
Camber
Front: -3.9
Rear: -3.7

Caster
6.9

Toe
Front: 0.0 (which is what I wanted)
Rear: 0.18 (which is what I wanted)


Previously installed parts:
Hardrace Front RCAs (with offset camber)
Wicked Tuning front tie rod
Wicked Tuning rear toe arm
Hardrace Rear RCA
Same tire setup and ride height

Previous Alignment spec:
Camber
Front: -1.9 (this was my max negative camber i was able to get)
Rear: -3.5

Caster
6.5

Toe
Front: 0.0
Rear: 0.18

 

having more available caster and camber is more desirable than having less camber and caster available.

Consider yourself blessed and you can always dial it back.

What is the purpose of the car?

btw what rear tires are you running, i see you are running 235s (is that your front?)

 

I am guessing what he posted are the minimum settings he is able to get now? Do the rear toe arms have that big of an effect on camber range?

 

Actually I cannot dial it back. The alignment settings above are at the MINIMUM spec.

I am running 235/40/17's all around.

This is AP1 btw.

The shop is suspecting the Spoon front offset balljoints could have been installed backwards which might explain the extreme minimum camber. But talking to Go Tuning, installing these backwards is impossible since it will interfere with the arm/backing plate.

We are going to see if it was installed correctly again, but i have faith the shop will figure this out. Any more input/theories from anyone else would be much appreciated.

I will post my alignment sheet in a bit.

 

Worst case scenario, max out the camber in the current configuration, and then take pictures.

 

If the ball joint was backwards (which IS possible) it would give you less camber. Are you sure the alignment shop knows what they are doing? Both adjusters at both ends have an impact on camber.

Can you post pics of the adjusters?

 

I'm pretty confident that the alignment shop knows what they are doing. They have been partnering with the shop that installed all of my suspension bits for 10 years and setup their track cars as well.

I'm trying to dial back my camber to:
Front: -2.5
Rear: -3.0

But right now I can't even dial back from:
Front: -3.9
Rear: -3.7

As far as the adjusters, do you mean the eccentric bolts?

 

Yes the eccentric bolts is what I am referring to.

 

Here is my alignment sheet. Please keep in mind that the "Before" spec just had everything freshly installed.



I'll go and take pics and upload in a bit.
Btw, It''s hard for me to know exactly how much lowered my car is since my front fenders are widened. I can't properly measure from center hub to fender. I can only go off how much finger gap I have around the car right now, which is 1 finger gap.

 

Did you adjust the DFV to the Ohlins recommended preload and damper lengths before they were installed? Has the car had any rough offs at the track or anything? I would guess something needs adjusting, or maybe something is bent slightly?