You have just spent £200 on a Cusco sway/anti roll bar but you won't spend £550 on coilovers?

Honesty, if your starting to do time attack I would look into this. Them 'shaggy' 9 year old shock can't be fairing that well.

I have coilovers, front + rear Cusco bars, under bracing, new bushing, mugen compliance bushes & larger tyres and I don't get any of the above.

Rob at Garage R will sort you a deal out on coilovers very cheaply.

Here is my settings:


I still use mine on the road sometimes though, hence the above

 

I fought the same problem with my MY03, so i did the following:

CR front sway bar (the thickest of all the years).
MY04 and up rear sway bar (the thinnest).

Upgrade to 17" wheels (225 front and 255 back).
AP2 v1, v2 or v3 wheels would do.

REAR BSK for AP1 a must!!! (Bump steer kit). Almost all AP1 running the S2K challenge have one. Best mod for the price!!!

Also, I personally run SWIFT springs with MY05 shocks.
You can try CR springs (super stiff and not too pricey), way cheaper than coilovers.

J's racing equivalent front camber kit if you can't get the camber you need in front.

A little toe in in the back would help (1/8), and a WING but that's a lot....

Very happy about the way the car is behaving. Since it's a track only car i went -3 camber all around.

But that's my .02 Euros from the US

 

Saner swaybars are cheap, and easy to come by. Call Saner and see if they'll ship one to you. I don't think that's your problem, though. My AP1 is very drivable with non-staggered 255/40-17s, stock springs/ shocks and a Saner front bar. With the Cusco front bar and staggered tires you should be pretty neutral or even under steer biased. Try to find a good set of stock shocks, or try Konis or aftermarket coilovers if you can scrape together the cash.

 

Thanks a lot for the reply.

I would love to get some AP2 wheels but again dont wanna spend too much atm.

Is the BSK gonna be very effective on standard suspension with standard height car too??? I thought it's for lowered cars?

I was thinking about getting some CR springs for the front, but I'm not sure if the old shocks can take it.

 

Dude, just get some new shocks. This is a pay-to-play sport. Don't spend all the money tracking the car and then ruin your experience because you have shocks you don't trust.

 

thats weird it oversteers with the UK alignment ~ when I was in UK I had a MY99 JDM car, stock stagger, S02's - before the alignment it was tailhappy afterwards it felt better overall but definitely understeered on the limit

I would check your alignment and also check you haven't got a softer front bar - I think cusco make a softer front bar as well as stiffer?

You should be able to find a whiteline bar in UK

its about 50% stiffer than stock - saner on full soft being 90something% stiffer

saner is overkill for stock stagger and alignment

 

Allen,
1) Add rear toe in (I run 3/16"). Rear toe in will reduce oversteer under compression. Since alignment is easiest fix, I'd do that first.
2) Ben is right, AP1 benefits from BSK (I ran no BSK for years and struggled with oversteer...then added the BSK and RR toe in = much more controllable.
See momofoolio's BSK thread tho before choosing).
3) Pressures are important...my setup is non-staggered so probably not apples to apples to yours but I usually run 1lb less in the rear (= neutral)

Mike

 

I recently installed a J's BSK for my AP1 with OEM suspension. It was a night and day difference. Things I noticed:

Much better stability under hard braking (esp. over uneven surfaces)
Much better stability on turn-in
Much more progressive slide
Able to put down power earlier out of corners
Overall much easier to drive

I run 1/8" total toe-in, but I think I will reduce that to 1/16" next time. The toe-in is a band-aid for the toe changes with compression, but now that the car handles so great, I think I could use a bit more rotation.

~Nam

EDIT: is this for autocross? I'm having a hard time imagining that you are getting inside tire lift on a road course (unless it has super sharp turns). I can pull around 1.15G's sustained and never had a problem with the inside tire lifting, even at a tight track like SOWS. Are you sure that is what's going on? Also, the best sizing option for you if you want R888's would be 205/55R16 front and 245/45R16 rear. The 255/50R16 would be too tall, and would hurt your gearing.

 

Great info there, thanks a lot!

Can I ask What swaybars you are running front and rear? If it's not the inside lift problem I should look at wider rear tires and maybe BSK then...

For the tire size, isnt OEM sidewall height 50?? I'm using 45 now the gap between the tire and wheel arc is a bit too big...

 

I would check and adjust alignment and have someone more experienced drive the car. Maybe there isn't anything wrong with the car at all.