I changed my brake pads for the first time yesterday and all went well. Is it important to torque the caliper bolts to a specific value? I just tightened them "hand-grip-tight"

Also, is it worthwhile to remove the dust shields? What purpose to they serve? Do they shield the brake lines from heat? Instructions?

Worst part was discovering that I bent the passenger rear wheel as well as the front

 

Front caliper bolt torque is 24 ft-lbs, rear is 23 ft-lbs. It's pretty tough to get a torque wrench back on the bolts and then read it. I suggest you use a torque wrench to calibrate yourself to what 23 to 25 ft-lbs feels like on a lug nut (for instance) and then tighten the caliper bolts to your calibration with a similarly sized ratchet. I can't believe that 1 ft-lb makes much difference. I would think that most commercially available 0 to 100 ft-lb torque wrenches probably have a tolerance of more that 1 ft-lb.

Some owners are removing the dust shields to improve brake cooling, and from what I've read this works. If you do this it would be a good idea to somehow insulate your lower ball joint to protect it from brake heat.

Some others have cut a hole in the dust shield and welded an attachment so that cooling hoses from the fake brake ducts on the front bumper can be run to this connection for brake cooling. This is a much better solution for brake cooling. I think King Motorsports makes a kit (expnsive) to do this.

 

Bummer about those wheels Craig! At least you still have 'em - mine just got stolen.

I've always torqued the caliper bolts in a similar fashion - hand grip tight - rotating the two wrenches against each other by clenching my hand. 2 years and dozens of brake pad changes, no problems to report.

The dust shields do protect the lower steering ball joint from heat. If you remove them (not a bad idea if you plan to track more) just wrap the joints in some protective heat-shield wrap. You have to take the rotors off to remove the shields "cleanly" - if you don't mind the use of tin snips they come off with a couple bolts and some bending. I've always left mine on, since removal isn't technically legal for autocross. Heat hasn't been too much an issue, but as I learn to drive better, it's becoming one. After just 2 sessions at the Streets, my brand new Porterfield R4 pads looked like they had been through atmospheric re-entry from deep orbit, then stomped on by elephants in stilettos.

Ducting of some sort is a good idea. The faux brake ducts can be cut out, then a hole made in the inner fender liner, and some ducting routed in pretty easily. Ducts can also be routed from in front of the radiator area. There aren't any off-the-shelf kits available that I'm aware of, but a decent speed shop should be able to do it for cheap.

Are you coming out to Sears or Laguna? Should be fun...

 

Thanks guys. Can't make it to Sears, maybe Laguna. Have a Happy New Year!