track day prep
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 6
From: Manitoba
I autocross and this is some stuff I bring:
- water
- umbrella
- sun screen
- tire pressure guage
- bike pump
- torque wrench with socket
- lug nut key (if needed)
- side walk chalk
- shop towels
- hand sanitizer
- water
- umbrella
- sun screen
- tire pressure guage
- bike pump
- torque wrench with socket
- lug nut key (if needed)
- side walk chalk
- shop towels
- hand sanitizer
Community Organizer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,507
Likes: 231
From: Miami, FL
You may not find the answer you're looking for here. Perhaps, if there was a sub-forum dedicated purely to all things racing and competition, your questions would be better answered.....
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 149
From: Los Angeles
This is one of those topics where you will be led by many people in many different directions. but to be clear and simple is to start with the basics.
since you have a AP1. These are the things i would start with, and check before hitting the track.
-Check your Spark plugs, and coil packs. Some guys tend to have a check engine light come on from these dying out causing a misfire.
-Valve Adjustment- Make sure you have spec spacing, and also check for any cracks on your retainers. Retainers are the leading cause for Ap1 motor failure. At 9K RPM you will get Valve float.
-Compression test: while you have everything opened up. A compression test would be a great piece of mind to have. What you really want is to catch any possible defects early on with the tests.
From here it is all basic and on preference.
Fluids: I use Motul 300V motor oil, Motul trans, and Diff fluid as well.
Tires: Do not buy R-Comps. You have not worked your way up to them, and your suspension/ Aero is not going to take advantage of them.
Tires i recommend to start with should be Tread-ware rating 140. From here is your choice.
Federal 595 RSR are bang for the buck (I use these now) But i do feel them get mushy after 5-6 hot laps.
Toyo R1R are close to twice the price of a 595; but they have great cycles and last a long ass time.
Falken Azenis are close to the R1R's
Direzza Star Specs have always had great review. I do believe they have a ZII now. there are many more, but these are some to start with
Brakes: Some blank rotors, with a good set of pads are the way to go. Slotted will eat your pads, and drilled will crack.
Project Mu club racers, or Project Mu HC 800 are a great choice as well. I am on HC800 and they have done great.
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF-600
Check your brake lines for any cracks, leaks, breaks, and then decide if you need lines. There are many affordable options out there.
Suspension: Depending on your wallet the options are up to you. Top recommendations to research are Eibach R2, Ohlins, KW V3.
Bump Steer: AP1's are known for this, and yes it matters. trust me! Mainly rear bump steer is your enemy; so Megan rear anti bumpsteer is great.
their kit is also booted to keep any dirt out of the spheres. Front bumpsteer will matter as well, and a 10mm or a 20mm will depend on how low you are. I am using a 20mm.
Spoon Rigid collar kit is not a bad investment either.
Interior: I would recommend a bucket seat. This will help so much to keep your ass from sliding around, and focused on the road.
Depending on your size, I would recommend a Recaro SPG, or a Pole position if you are on the larger side. (height/weight)
Exterior/ Aero: This should be the last thing you worry about, as you will need to get a few track days in to learn your car. Once you feel confident to go harder and faster in the corners is when a GT wing/ front splitter will come in handy. The faster you get, and more experienced is when you will become faster, and will run your suspension harder, and buy R-Comps and a BBK.
Have fun, and be safe.
since you have a AP1. These are the things i would start with, and check before hitting the track.
-Check your Spark plugs, and coil packs. Some guys tend to have a check engine light come on from these dying out causing a misfire.
-Valve Adjustment- Make sure you have spec spacing, and also check for any cracks on your retainers. Retainers are the leading cause for Ap1 motor failure. At 9K RPM you will get Valve float.
-Compression test: while you have everything opened up. A compression test would be a great piece of mind to have. What you really want is to catch any possible defects early on with the tests.
From here it is all basic and on preference.
Fluids: I use Motul 300V motor oil, Motul trans, and Diff fluid as well.
Tires: Do not buy R-Comps. You have not worked your way up to them, and your suspension/ Aero is not going to take advantage of them.
Tires i recommend to start with should be Tread-ware rating 140. From here is your choice.
Federal 595 RSR are bang for the buck (I use these now) But i do feel them get mushy after 5-6 hot laps.
Toyo R1R are close to twice the price of a 595; but they have great cycles and last a long ass time.
Falken Azenis are close to the R1R's
Direzza Star Specs have always had great review. I do believe they have a ZII now. there are many more, but these are some to start with
Brakes: Some blank rotors, with a good set of pads are the way to go. Slotted will eat your pads, and drilled will crack.
Project Mu club racers, or Project Mu HC 800 are a great choice as well. I am on HC800 and they have done great.
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF-600
Check your brake lines for any cracks, leaks, breaks, and then decide if you need lines. There are many affordable options out there.
Suspension: Depending on your wallet the options are up to you. Top recommendations to research are Eibach R2, Ohlins, KW V3.
Bump Steer: AP1's are known for this, and yes it matters. trust me! Mainly rear bump steer is your enemy; so Megan rear anti bumpsteer is great.
their kit is also booted to keep any dirt out of the spheres. Front bumpsteer will matter as well, and a 10mm or a 20mm will depend on how low you are. I am using a 20mm.
Spoon Rigid collar kit is not a bad investment either.
Interior: I would recommend a bucket seat. This will help so much to keep your ass from sliding around, and focused on the road.
Depending on your size, I would recommend a Recaro SPG, or a Pole position if you are on the larger side. (height/weight)
Exterior/ Aero: This should be the last thing you worry about, as you will need to get a few track days in to learn your car. Once you feel confident to go harder and faster in the corners is when a GT wing/ front splitter will come in handy. The faster you get, and more experienced is when you will become faster, and will run your suspension harder, and buy R-Comps and a BBK.
Have fun, and be safe.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 10
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 1
This is one of those topics where you will be led by many people in many different directions. but to be clear and simple is to start with the basics.
since you have a AP1. These are the things i would start with, and check before hitting the track.
-Check your Spark plugs, and coil packs. Some guys tend to have a check engine light come on from these dying out causing a misfire.
-Valve Adjustment- Make sure you have spec spacing, and also check for any cracks on your retainers. Retainers are the leading cause for Ap1 motor failure. At 9K RPM you will get Valve float.
-Compression test: while you have everything opened up. A compression test would be a great piece of mind to have. What you really want is to catch any possible defects early on with the tests.
From here it is all basic and on preference.
Fluids: I use Motul 300V motor oil, Motul trans, and Diff fluid as well.
Tires: Do not buy R-Comps. You have not worked your way up to them, and your suspension/ Aero is not going to take advantage of them.
Tires i recommend to start with should be Tread-ware rating 140. From here is your choice.
Federal 595 RSR are bang for the buck (I use these now) But i do feel them get mushy after 5-6 hot laps.
Toyo R1R are close to twice the price of a 595; but they have great cycles and last a long ass time.
Falken Azenis are close to the R1R's
Direzza Star Specs have always had great review. I do believe they have a ZII now. there are many more, but these are some to start with
Brakes: Some blank rotors, with a good set of pads are the way to go. Slotted will eat your pads, and drilled will crack.
Project Mu club racers, or Project Mu HC 800 are a great choice as well. I am on HC800 and they have done great.
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF-600
Check your brake lines for any cracks, leaks, breaks, and then decide if you need lines. There are many affordable options out there.
Suspension: Depending on your wallet the options are up to you. Top recommendations to research are Eibach R2, Ohlins, KW V3.
Bump Steer: AP1's are known for this, and yes it matters. trust me! Mainly rear bump steer is your enemy; so Megan rear anti bumpsteer is great.
their kit is also booted to keep any dirt out of the spheres. Front bumpsteer will matter as well, and a 10mm or a 20mm will depend on how low you are. I am using a 20mm.
Spoon Rigid collar kit is not a bad investment either.
Interior: I would recommend a bucket seat. This will help so much to keep your ass from sliding around, and focused on the road.
Depending on your size, I would recommend a Recaro SPG, or a Pole position if you are on the larger side. (height/weight)
Exterior/ Aero: This should be the last thing you worry about, as you will need to get a few track days in to learn your car. Once you feel confident to go harder and faster in the corners is when a GT wing/ front splitter will come in handy. The faster you get, and more experienced is when you will become faster, and will run your suspension harder, and buy R-Comps and a BBK.
Have fun, and be safe.
since you have a AP1. These are the things i would start with, and check before hitting the track.
-Check your Spark plugs, and coil packs. Some guys tend to have a check engine light come on from these dying out causing a misfire.
-Valve Adjustment- Make sure you have spec spacing, and also check for any cracks on your retainers. Retainers are the leading cause for Ap1 motor failure. At 9K RPM you will get Valve float.
-Compression test: while you have everything opened up. A compression test would be a great piece of mind to have. What you really want is to catch any possible defects early on with the tests.
From here it is all basic and on preference.
Fluids: I use Motul 300V motor oil, Motul trans, and Diff fluid as well.
Tires: Do not buy R-Comps. You have not worked your way up to them, and your suspension/ Aero is not going to take advantage of them.
Tires i recommend to start with should be Tread-ware rating 140. From here is your choice.
Federal 595 RSR are bang for the buck (I use these now) But i do feel them get mushy after 5-6 hot laps.
Toyo R1R are close to twice the price of a 595; but they have great cycles and last a long ass time.
Falken Azenis are close to the R1R's
Direzza Star Specs have always had great review. I do believe they have a ZII now. there are many more, but these are some to start with
Brakes: Some blank rotors, with a good set of pads are the way to go. Slotted will eat your pads, and drilled will crack.
Project Mu club racers, or Project Mu HC 800 are a great choice as well. I am on HC800 and they have done great.
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF-600
Check your brake lines for any cracks, leaks, breaks, and then decide if you need lines. There are many affordable options out there.
Suspension: Depending on your wallet the options are up to you. Top recommendations to research are Eibach R2, Ohlins, KW V3.
Bump Steer: AP1's are known for this, and yes it matters. trust me! Mainly rear bump steer is your enemy; so Megan rear anti bumpsteer is great.
their kit is also booted to keep any dirt out of the spheres. Front bumpsteer will matter as well, and a 10mm or a 20mm will depend on how low you are. I am using a 20mm.
Spoon Rigid collar kit is not a bad investment either.
Interior: I would recommend a bucket seat. This will help so much to keep your ass from sliding around, and focused on the road.
Depending on your size, I would recommend a Recaro SPG, or a Pole position if you are on the larger side. (height/weight)
Exterior/ Aero: This should be the last thing you worry about, as you will need to get a few track days in to learn your car. Once you feel confident to go harder and faster in the corners is when a GT wing/ front splitter will come in handy. The faster you get, and more experienced is when you will become faster, and will run your suspension harder, and buy R-Comps and a BBK.
Have fun, and be safe.
This should be stickied...
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Windmill in the sky
However, I'm curious to know what's the purpose of the side walk chalk?
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,507
Likes: 231
From: Miami, FL
