what size wrench(es) needed to replace brake pads?
I think it's a 12mm, but it may be a 10mm. (I can't remember) You just need the one; it's a really easy procedure.
For the rears, you'll also want a 3/8" extension to turn the calipers to compress them. A bungee cord or hangar also comes in handy to hold the caliper out of the way while swapping the pads.
For the rears, you'll also want a 3/8" extension to turn the calipers to compress them. A bungee cord or hangar also comes in handy to hold the caliper out of the way while swapping the pads.
12mm wrench needed for both front and rear. You may need a 19mm wrench in the front and a 17mm wrench in the rear to hold the slide pins.
You also need to screw the rear piston back in. I found the "use a 3/8 socket extension" trick to be way more trouble than it is worth. For about $5 you can buy a "universal rear disk brake tool" from any auto parts store. It looks like a little cube. Works much better, but it's still a PITA relative to just compressing the fronts.
I use a big-ass set of channel locks to compress the fronts.
You also need to screw the rear piston back in. I found the "use a 3/8 socket extension" trick to be way more trouble than it is worth. For about $5 you can buy a "universal rear disk brake tool" from any auto parts store. It looks like a little cube. Works much better, but it's still a PITA relative to just compressing the fronts.
I use a big-ass set of channel locks to compress the fronts.
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,May 7 2005, 09:03 PM
I found the "use a 3/8 socket extension" trick to be way more trouble than it is worth.

I kinda assumed he knew about something to compress the fronts, but thanks for pointing it out.
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,May 7 2005, 09:03 PM
You also need to screw the rear piston back in. I found the "use a 3/8 socket extension" trick to be way more trouble than it is worth. For about $5 you can buy a "universal rear disk brake tool" from any auto parts store. It looks like a little cube. Works much better, but it's still a PITA relative to just compressing the fronts.
The fronts is where I use a 3/8" extension or a regular box-end wrench that can fit through the slot in the caliper, and use it like a lever to push in the piston. I know it's supposed to be a bad procedure as it can score the edge of the piston and puts torque on the "hinge" of the caliper, but I haven't seen any scoring and has worked without problems for a long time.
Originally Posted by rlaifatt,May 8 2005, 06:45 AM
Mike, I find the 3/8" ratchet (not an extension, but the wrench itself without any attachments) works very easily, but what works similarly easily is a large (10-12") flat file. I had always used the file until very recently. Just place it on edge (far-end) in one of the slots of the piston. There is no slipping (because of the grippy surface) and the leverage is even better than with the wrench. I had tried the $5 universal tool in the beginning and it was a pain to keep it from slipping.
The fronts is where I use a 3/8" extension or a regular box-end wrench that can fit through the slot in the caliper, and use it like a lever to push in the piston. I know it's supposed to be a bad procedure as it can score the edge of the piston and puts torque on the "hinge" of the caliper, but I haven't seen any scoring and has worked without problems for a long time.
The fronts is where I use a 3/8" extension or a regular box-end wrench that can fit through the slot in the caliper, and use it like a lever to push in the piston. I know it's supposed to be a bad procedure as it can score the edge of the piston and puts torque on the "hinge" of the caliper, but I haven't seen any scoring and has worked without problems for a long time.
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what are channel locks? does it look like a huge set of pliers that angles pliers so that it compresses in parallel?
good thing there are helpful people at the track with lots of tools cuz the helm's manual instructions was bullcrap.
amazing 1st day experience at the track.
Question: is it okay to drive on the street with cobalt VR's for a couple days? it squeels really loudly.
good thing there are helpful people at the track with lots of tools cuz the helm's manual instructions was bullcrap.
amazing 1st day experience at the track.
Question: is it okay to drive on the street with cobalt VR's for a couple days? it squeels really loudly.
Originally Posted by jyeung528,May 9 2005, 09:19 AM
what are channel locks? does it look like a huge set of pliers that angles pliers so that it compresses in parallel?



