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When to toss track pads?

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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Default When to toss track pads?

I'm growing an impressive collection of "almost" shot track pads--probably enough for another day, but who wants to risk it?

I would love to know what thickness is considered safe for embarking on a 200 mile track day on a fairly brake-intensive road course. I brake aggressively--the set of pads I'm about to replace (Cobalt Spec VR in front, Spec VX rear) only has maybe five track days on it.

I am happy to replace pads that really are marginal, especially since the last half of the pad seems to go much faster than the first half, but I'd rather not toss pads with another good day on them.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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I've got some pads that are within the thickness of a piece of paper of the backing plate. On the other hand, you don't want to pull a Jerry.

If you do try extending the life of your pads, be prepared for quicker fade and the possibility of having to change them in the middle of the day.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 05:04 PM
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Not exactly the right thread for this, but I didn't think a whole new thread was needed. Just curious to know what pads you suggest for using in the rear if I'm using Cobalt VR's in the front.

VX's or IT-Rs'?
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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VX. The Spec-C pads don't hold up as well in the rear of the S2000 and they tend to make a mess of rotors. Don't get me wrong, they'll stop the car well enough, but the Spec VX is a much better match to the VR up front; enough people had complaints about the longevity of the Spec-C that we had Cobalt make us the VX to address all those shortcomings.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Jan 3 2006, 06:53 PM
I've got some pads that are within the thickness of a piece of paper of the backing plate. On the other hand, you don't want to pull a Jerry.

If you do try extending the life of your pads, be prepared for quicker fade and the possibility of having to change them in the middle of the day.
Dude, the backing plates work better than the pad... for a while at least.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Run 'em till there's no more pad left, just don't go much farther than that. Normally I only go through a 1/2 a set of fronts per track day, but I went a little over--and then some last time I ran at Thunderhill:




Outside pad looked like it had about 2mm left, but the inside pad was worn down to the backing plate, plus some. Though it made no sound on the track, the pad squealed like a wounded banshee when I was tooling home in traffic after the day was over and the brakes had cooled down. I pulled off the hwy to inspect and was pretty shocked to see what I saw. Fortunately had a misc. pad with a few miles left in it that I wedged in its place. I do believe I came pretty close to popping a piston out.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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i think you run a higher risk of cracking the rotors when you get down too low as well.? I cracked 2 rotors when using nearly worn out pads
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 01:00 PM
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I tried to skimp on my pads last year

When my front pads get low (say ~ 5 MM of material) they overheat and get very wooden feeling and then wear superfast, this is as I am braking earlier and earlier. And cracked a rotor to boot.

I have had to change front pads a few times in-between sessions, I don't like doing that anymore.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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Wilwoods make changing pads enjoyable!
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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I say it'd be a good idea to change out the pads with 5mm left. I tried skimping on my pads on my last track event and the fronts wore down to the backing plate and i didn't bring an extra set of pads to change out. Needless to say, i drove back home using my e-brake to stop. Also, my driver side rotor is now scored from the backing plate.
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