I have that same little "bump" going into 3rd sometimes on my MY02. Usually, if I linger a little longer in neutral before pushing the shifter up to 3, it goes away.

 

njtripface- Have you checked the oil frequently?

It may just be me but it seems like everytime ive changed the oil on my car or filled it to the top "X" overall the car feels much more smoother.... Just an opinion.

 

The syncro's were changed in '02, and I've noticed a difference between the way my car (an '02) shifts and the way older models do. There is a slightly notchy feel sometimes, and to me it feels like those new syncro's - they're more robust (2 - 3 is a triple cone, I believe), so if you apply force they push back harder.

First of all, you should apply only a minimum amount of force to the shifter - pushing too hard actually slows down the shift. This lessens the notchy feeling as you "guide" the shifter into place rather than force it. Double-clutching does smooth things out somewhat if done correctly, but isn't necessary. Additionally, when the tranny's cold, the fluid hasn't been distributed evenly nor is it up to operating temperature. So of course it's not going to be as smooth as when it's warm. Just one of the many reasons that you need to let your car properly warm up.

And 3 bars isn't the oil temperature, directly...that's the coolant. It takes a little bit longer for the oil to warm up, so wait a minute or two after you see 3 bars to wring it out. Too bad Honda decided their sports car didn't need a full comliment of guages...I'd really like oil temp and pressure - Rick's instrument "panel" may be in my future.

 

I notice that getting into first is relatively difficult when cold. My '00 celica had the same problem though, and it goes away as soon as the car warms up.

 

Same here, 1st takes a significant amount of effort when it's cold (low ambient temperature + recently started car). Second a little less. I've never noticed issues above 2nd. However, I've had it jackrabbit occasionally in 1st, but only when cold.

 

Also the same problem here with my 2003. I'm very thankful for this forum because I was really starting to think that something might be wrong. The local Honda dealer wanted to do some investigative disassembly but with only 4k miles I thought it was better to do some research on the issue first. I get the clunk shifting from 2nd to 3rd only. If I keep the transmission in neutral for a second before going into 3rd the problem goes away. I'll be patient and replace the transmission fluid in the near future.

 

I had the fluid replaced at the dealer and things got noticeably better... for about a week. I've got some redline MT-90 in the garage and I plan to try that out soon.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by baritone
[B]I have that same little "bump" going into 3rd sometimes on my MY02.

 

I was concerned for my 03 also when I started driving this car. I have 1200 miles now and the tranny is considerably smoother than when it was brand spanking new. Ive had this car for about a month now and Im getting use to it. Once the car warms up, the tranny shifts like fliud! I love it lol

 

I studied as a tribologist so let me weigh in on some points in here:

1) GM Synchromesh (GMS). This is a fortified motor oil. It was designed for GM when certain German-sourced trannies from Getrag started having warranty problems. Some of the "yellow metals" in trannies are susceptible to common additives used in "gear oils". More below. If you use it, chage it a lot. I have found that Honda's MTL is essentially the same product, but better made and longer lasting.

2) Make sure that the RL MT-90 is free of GL-5 additives - as I said, certain "shock load" additives can be damaging to trannies, especially what are known as "active sulfur" compounds.

3) I had really good luck with Red Line MTL in my 1995 NSX. The 1995 was spec'd for motor oil in the tranny, and then Honda went in 1996 with its Manual Trans Lubricant, and extended the drain intervals hugely. It retro-applied the use of its (then new) MTL for earlier cars, and extended the drain from 30k to 100k! RLMTL and Honda MTL are not at all the same.

4) Red Line uses Group V polyol esters in MTL and MT-90. Honda's product is closer to GM's.

Bottom Line? Caveat Emptor. What color is the lube that is stock in the S2000? If it is amber, and you have a tranny failure, better throw some amber back in with some metal shavings. If it is red, stick with red. As I recall, Red Line used to make MTL in both amber and red dyed. Not sure if they still do, but all the MTL I use is red.

Tranny fluids vary more than any other lube in practical use - it varies greatly from car to car and tranny to tranny. Red Line MTL did not do well in the T-56 in my Cobra - the best was Amsoil ATF - we tried 10 fluids, including GM's, Mobil 1 ATF, Red Line D4 ATF, Valvoline Synpower, and a coupla synblends (which are a huge ripoff in my book).

Wait until the car is at operating temp before you try to speed shift. Most wear occurs in trannies from wear trying to force things - there are a lot of different metals ina transmission, each with its own expandsion rate, and until the target engineering interface is achieved, things can get gummed up. If it is balky at first, try shifting from 2nd to 1st at low speed, oe double clutrch.

A balky Honda tranny is usually indicative of a misaligned clutch, shift linkage, or bad synchronizer or synchro block.