Advice on a purchase
I have a MY00 and MY07. So my experience covers the spectrum from initial to almost final spec.
Drive both cars. Then form an opinion of your own and come back for discussion on subjective topics like driving experience and looks.
Objectively for North American cars....
I think that's anything relevant. Take that stuff into account. I didn't include things like emissions system updates and the fact that 06+ diffs use a different ventilation system.
Spring rates, shock rates, and swaybars changed almost every year.
Obviously, since the AP2 was a facelift model, there are various improvements and the net is an objectively improved car.
Again...drive the desired AP1 or AP2 before making a subjective opinion. Everyone's opinions shouldn't cloud yours, as its YOUR car.
Drive both cars. Then form an opinion of your own and come back for discussion on subjective topics like driving experience and looks.
Objectively for North American cars....
- The AP1 revs to ~9K.
- The F22 makes noticeably more usable power and torque.
- The AP2 trans has more modern carbon synchros and 8% shorter 1st thru 4th gears. 5th is slightly shorter. 6th ends up being virtually the same in both cars.
- The F22 retainers are more bulletproof. If you buy an AP1, definitely do the retainer upgrade.
- The AP2 cup holder is bigger, but massively stupider.
- 00-01 cars have the most basic interior. 2 paper speakers, non carpeted center console.
- 00 cars have no rear wind deflector.
- 00-01 cars have plastic rear softtop windows
- 02+ cars have 4 speakers. 06+ cars have 6 speakers. **04+ cars may have been optioned with additional speakers.
- The AP2 has better factory speakers with polymer cones.
- The AP2 diff is marginally stronger
- AP2's have an improved clutch to resolve the clutch buzzing issue AP1's had.
- AP2's have a clutch delay valve built into the system.
- AP2's have a ~9 or 10LB heavier flywheel.
- F22's are less likely to consume oil.
- The AP2 has strengthened front UCA mounts. Useful if you track the car.
- The AP2 rear suspension geometry is tuned for less bump steer and more predictible handling.
- Base model AP2's have slower steering racks.
- Base model AP2's have 17" wheels with 10mm more front tire width and 20mm more rear tire width.
- 06+ models have traction control and drive by wire throttle and a CAN BUS ECU that's easily reflashed.
- 06+ cars have a weight sensor in the passenger seat for the SRS system.
- 07+ cars have TPMS.
- 06+ cars have DRL
- 06+ cars have returnless fuel systems.
- 06+ cars run leaner and generally make more MPG.
- 06+ cars run leaner and need more frequent valve adjustment
I think that's anything relevant. Take that stuff into account. I didn't include things like emissions system updates and the fact that 06+ diffs use a different ventilation system.
Spring rates, shock rates, and swaybars changed almost every year.
Obviously, since the AP2 was a facelift model, there are various improvements and the net is an objectively improved car.
Again...drive the desired AP1 or AP2 before making a subjective opinion. Everyone's opinions shouldn't cloud yours, as its YOUR car.
Last edited by B serious; May 10, 2023 at 09:51 AM.
seriously good info @B_serious
if you like the look of the AP2 (which I also strongly prefer), you may regret not going AP2. The main benefit of the AP1 is really the 9k RPM which you have to experience to see if it's worth it. I mean, it's pretty unique. Aside from the host of upgrades from AP1 to AP2, I think the main ones are the extra grunt which is really useful around town and the looks. To me, the AP2 looks timeliness and the AP1 looks old (no offense!) - just being honest. Also, I can't imagine driving the S2000 with less torque than the AP2 has. The AP2 has just enough torque to be good enough before VTEC. People say that AP1 is anemic before VTEC, I believe it!
if you like the look of the AP2 (which I also strongly prefer), you may regret not going AP2. The main benefit of the AP1 is really the 9k RPM which you have to experience to see if it's worth it. I mean, it's pretty unique. Aside from the host of upgrades from AP1 to AP2, I think the main ones are the extra grunt which is really useful around town and the looks. To me, the AP2 looks timeliness and the AP1 looks old (no offense!) - just being honest. Also, I can't imagine driving the S2000 with less torque than the AP2 has. The AP2 has just enough torque to be good enough before VTEC. People say that AP1 is anemic before VTEC, I believe it!
I have a MY00 and MY07. So my experience covers the spectrum from initial to almost final spec.
Drive both cars. Then form an opinion of your own and come back for discussion on subjective topics like driving experience and looks.
Objectively for North American cars....
Drive both cars. Then form an opinion of your own and come back for discussion on subjective topics like driving experience and looks.
Objectively for North American cars....
- The AP2 trans has more modern carbon synchros and 8% shorter 1st thru 4th gears. 5th is slightly shorter. 6th ends up being virtually the same in both cars.
- The AP2 cup holder is bigger, but massively stupider.
- 06+ cars run leaner and need more frequent valve adjustment
I might add that later AP2s did not come with the "tape" over the windshield frame; it was painted like the rest of the car.
Cup holder? What cup holder? I have no idea where my cupholder is on my 2009 AP2. That little flip up lever in the console compartment I thought would be for a phone holder. It cannot hold any kind of a cup. I tried it once and learned the hard way. I have a holder that fits the universal T mount on a stalk mounted to the pax seat that also (mostly) is used for my phone.
Valve adjustment for DBW is well covered but I have found that once I performed the first valve adjustment around 40K miles, the second look/see at 65K miles revealed no appreciable change. After the first one (if done correctly) you are good to go.
I am including some pics of the "revised" cup holder for a minor hijack of the thread.
One of the installation steps for the OEM hard-top is "remove the tape".
I might be the only one who doesnt mind the AP2 cup holders. I only use it for disposable water bottles and it works just fine. Perfect for those squarish Fiji water bottles also. Maybe not so much for oddly shaped or top heavy cups. I would be nervous to use for anything without a cap. Love how it is a soft open and clean look when you close it. I’m a fan!
These cars are only alike in a generic sense. It's indisputable the cars got better with age.
Early car owners claim the engine will rev to "9,000 rpm" as that in itself is meaningful. It isn't and they don't. High rpm is an apology for low torque. Both engines produce the same maximum power. The AP1 engine rev limiter cuts out at 8900, the AP2 cuts out at an embarrassingly low 8200 in stock tune
Early cars have 16" wheels with narrower tires. Performance tires in 16" diameters are less available than the 17" wheels on later cars which sill simply bolt on if desires -- no changes needed.
Yada yada yada.
Save yourself a lot of bother and make a priority list. Things at the top of the list are essential while those toward the bottom are merely desirable. A well thought out priority list will create a short list -- often a very short list -- of cars to look at. My priority list was headed by DBW to have the ability to conveniently tune the car for more mid-range power. My VTEC engages at 3600rpm with a rev limit of 8400rpm. This limited my choices to 2006 or newer. This was followed by the usual low mileage, no damage, no modifications, etc. Color being non-functional was not on the list at all (so I ended up with a silver car) other guys may put color as #1. It's your priority not mine or theirs. If you gotta have a white car put that at the top of the list so you don't bother with looking at other colors.
The quest is part of the fun. Just don't chase things toward the bottom of your priorities. I had leads on stunning very low mileage 2005 cars I didn't look at since they failed #1 on my list.
-- Chuck
Early car owners claim the engine will rev to "9,000 rpm" as that in itself is meaningful. It isn't and they don't. High rpm is an apology for low torque. Both engines produce the same maximum power. The AP1 engine rev limiter cuts out at 8900, the AP2 cuts out at an embarrassingly low 8200 in stock tune
Early cars have 16" wheels with narrower tires. Performance tires in 16" diameters are less available than the 17" wheels on later cars which sill simply bolt on if desires -- no changes needed.
Yada yada yada.

Save yourself a lot of bother and make a priority list. Things at the top of the list are essential while those toward the bottom are merely desirable. A well thought out priority list will create a short list -- often a very short list -- of cars to look at. My priority list was headed by DBW to have the ability to conveniently tune the car for more mid-range power. My VTEC engages at 3600rpm with a rev limit of 8400rpm. This limited my choices to 2006 or newer. This was followed by the usual low mileage, no damage, no modifications, etc. Color being non-functional was not on the list at all (so I ended up with a silver car) other guys may put color as #1. It's your priority not mine or theirs. If you gotta have a white car put that at the top of the list so you don't bother with looking at other colors.
The quest is part of the fun. Just don't chase things toward the bottom of your priorities. I had leads on stunning very low mileage 2005 cars I didn't look at since they failed #1 on my list.
-- Chuck
I have a 2009 Rio Yellow Pearl. There were 38 sold in the USA for the year 2009. BAT just opened up an auction for one with 20K miles. First time ever I have seen my identical car up for grabs. However, it is missing 2 Vin stickers and has a cold air intake. No accidents reported on Carfax. Still.........
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2009-honda-s2000-13/
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2009-honda-s2000-13/









