air box
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From: Montreal
I read that at Vtec.nets S2000 forum too, very informative.
For all those who are interested in how the cars perform with or without under a race situation:
Me an s2kmtl had the chance to have a quick race. We had an even take-off and were even untill i shifted two second, after the shift,my car slowly pulled away. It was clearly acceleration and not drivers skill.... He had the airbox cover off and i had mine on.
Thanks
For all those who are interested in how the cars perform with or without under a race situation:
Me an s2kmtl had the chance to have a quick race. We had an even take-off and were even untill i shifted two second, after the shift,my car slowly pulled away. It was clearly acceleration and not drivers skill.... He had the airbox cover off and i had mine on.
Thanks
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From: Houston
I was about to post asking about performance losses with top off because I had noticed a little bit of hesitency with the top off the last week. Mostly when I'm really flooring it and going up to 8,000+ RPMs. I'm thinking of building a half-top, one that covers on the engine side but is open on the front side of the box. I love the box off sound, but want to keep the air cool that is coming in. SuperStreet magazine has a good little article on adding a shield to your engine to keep hot air from an open styled air filter - I plan on using that information to help me out.
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Plano
Ok, I am not devoted to this idea, but a buddy of mine has an M3 with a K&N and this is how they handle it. Basically "walls" are built up from the box that come close to the underside of the hood. There is a soft rubber seal on top of the walls which meets the hood when closed. However, the front side of the box has no wall, and is basically opened to the front of the car where cool air is coming in. Begin STL comments here 
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You guys advocating removing the airbox cover are missing one critical point. Most high performance intakes (such as ours) rely on acoustic "tuning" to help presurize the system. The principle is known as a "hemholtz resonator". It is the same priciple that Bose uses in their "WaveGuide" types of speakers AM-5's , Clock radio, etc....
It is like thinking you can just bolt on some sewer sized exhaust pipes to "have less restriction". That idea dismisses the "tuning effect" that a well designed exhaust system produces.
Well it is the same thing with intake systems nowadays.
Take the top off and have more noise but less power. It is your choice.
It is like thinking you can just bolt on some sewer sized exhaust pipes to "have less restriction". That idea dismisses the "tuning effect" that a well designed exhaust system produces.
Well it is the same thing with intake systems nowadays.
Take the top off and have more noise but less power. It is your choice.
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From: Lisbon
My experience does not match what was reported by "jeff" above. I have measured the intake temperature and found only a few degrees difference (less than 10C) when the car was moving at speed. I did have the precaution to have the temp sensor dangling inside the airbox without touching the walls. I did not do any tests without the lid, but my guess is that it would be substantially warmer.
Now the challenge for those looking for better intake sound is to design a lid that lets the sound but not the air go through. A speaker grill?
Now the challenge for those looking for better intake sound is to design a lid that lets the sound but not the air go through. A speaker grill?
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From: Sacramento - Home of da Kings!
Originally posted by cdelena:
Without an understanding (not a guess) of why it is there the only thing you could do is test before and after.
Without an understanding (not a guess) of why it is there the only thing you could do is test before and after.
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From: Defiance
Let me jump in...
We know that the Honda engineers can create a much better performing induction system then we can. We also know that they must have made some compromises in the airbox design to 1) limit induction noise, and 2) prevent water entry.
This is probably why the car doesn't have ram-air induction like Honda sportbikes do. The induction noise from my bike at WOT, almost equals the exhaust noise. I guess that's a no-no in the car world.
If we identify these "compromises" then we may be able to pick up a little more hp.
If someone wants to experiment, try this idea, then run the car next to a stock S2000 to see if it makes a differance.
1) Locate a roll of thick foam weatherstriping. It should be about one inch wide and as thick as possible (you probabuly won't be able to find it thicker than about a half inch though.)
Use it to seal the radiator core support to the hood on both sides of the airbox intake. Then run two strips from the air box intake to the opening you left on the core support.
From the looks of it you should be able to seal the airbox to the high pressure area in front of the core support. Poor (ugly)mans Ram air induction for $20.00 instead of $1400.00
I would also remove the wall inside the airbox, I think that is only for the puddle jumpers (water induction). Add a K&N too while you're at it.
We know that the Honda engineers can create a much better performing induction system then we can. We also know that they must have made some compromises in the airbox design to 1) limit induction noise, and 2) prevent water entry.
This is probably why the car doesn't have ram-air induction like Honda sportbikes do. The induction noise from my bike at WOT, almost equals the exhaust noise. I guess that's a no-no in the car world.
If we identify these "compromises" then we may be able to pick up a little more hp.
If someone wants to experiment, try this idea, then run the car next to a stock S2000 to see if it makes a differance.
1) Locate a roll of thick foam weatherstriping. It should be about one inch wide and as thick as possible (you probabuly won't be able to find it thicker than about a half inch though.)
Use it to seal the radiator core support to the hood on both sides of the airbox intake. Then run two strips from the air box intake to the opening you left on the core support.
From the looks of it you should be able to seal the airbox to the high pressure area in front of the core support. Poor (ugly)mans Ram air induction for $20.00 instead of $1400.00
I would also remove the wall inside the airbox, I think that is only for the puddle jumpers (water induction). Add a K&N too while you're at it.