AP1 not accelerating
I'm not to sure how many miles on it, most of the parts on the s2k are original so I would think it hasn't been changed at all, and I dont daily it fortunately thank you
BTW... OEM is the way to go with the disc, bearings, and pressure plate.
Last edited by windhund116; May 31, 2024 at 05:43 AM.
Your explanation kind of sounds like a slipping clutch and kind of doesn't.
I think you're saying that:
On part throttle, the car accelerates like normal
At full throttle the car does not accelerate like normal
You're also saying VTEC does not engage? How did you determine that?
At full throttle...does the RPM rise a whole lot? Like...the car revs up but the revs don't do anything?
Or are you saying that at full throttle, the RPM's rise proportionally to speed...but the car bogs out?
Deserves some clarification.
Also, if you determine you need a clutch, buy one from a honda dealership. Don't buy an aftermarket clutch or bearings.
You need:
Clutch plate
Clutch disc
Release bearing
Release bearing guide (important!)
Pilot bearing
HT Urea grease
Expect to spend about $800-1K in parts.
try hondaautomotiveparts.com
If you're doing this clutch job as a flip, or you're gonna sell the car in a few months, you can save money by going aftermarket. But...let the buyer know what you've done.
Aftermarket kits with the FCC disc seem to work fine. But...its still aftermarket.
I think you're saying that:
On part throttle, the car accelerates like normal
At full throttle the car does not accelerate like normal
You're also saying VTEC does not engage? How did you determine that?
At full throttle...does the RPM rise a whole lot? Like...the car revs up but the revs don't do anything?
Or are you saying that at full throttle, the RPM's rise proportionally to speed...but the car bogs out?
Deserves some clarification.
Also, if you determine you need a clutch, buy one from a honda dealership. Don't buy an aftermarket clutch or bearings.
You need:
Clutch plate
Clutch disc
Release bearing
Release bearing guide (important!)
Pilot bearing
HT Urea grease
Expect to spend about $800-1K in parts.
try hondaautomotiveparts.com
If you're doing this clutch job as a flip, or you're gonna sell the car in a few months, you can save money by going aftermarket. But...let the buyer know what you've done.
Aftermarket kits with the FCC disc seem to work fine. But...its still aftermarket.
Take a video. Get it out on the road, video should be on the dashboard so the tach and speedo are in frame. Reproduce this issue. If the clutch is slipping badly enough to notice while driving it will likely be pretty obvious from the video of the dashboard.
Your explanation kind of sounds like a slipping clutch and kind of doesn't.
I think you're saying that:
On part throttle, the car accelerates like normal
At full throttle the car does not accelerate like normal
You're also saying VTEC does not engage? How did you determine that?
At full throttle...does the RPM rise a whole lot? Like...the car revs up but the revs don't do anything?
Or are you saying that at full throttle, the RPM's rise proportionally to speed...but the car bogs out?
Deserves some clarification.
Also, if you determine you need a clutch, buy one from a honda dealership. Don't buy an aftermarket clutch or bearings.
You need:
Clutch plate
Clutch disc
Release bearing
Release bearing guide (important!)
Pilot bearing
HT Urea grease
Expect to spend about $800-1K in parts.
try hondaautomotiveparts.com
If you're doing this clutch job as a flip, or you're gonna sell the car in a few months, you can save money by going aftermarket. But...let the buyer know what you've done.
Aftermarket kits with the FCC disc seem to work fine. But...its still aftermarket.
I think you're saying that:
On part throttle, the car accelerates like normal
At full throttle the car does not accelerate like normal
You're also saying VTEC does not engage? How did you determine that?
At full throttle...does the RPM rise a whole lot? Like...the car revs up but the revs don't do anything?
Or are you saying that at full throttle, the RPM's rise proportionally to speed...but the car bogs out?
Deserves some clarification.
Also, if you determine you need a clutch, buy one from a honda dealership. Don't buy an aftermarket clutch or bearings.
You need:
Clutch plate
Clutch disc
Release bearing
Release bearing guide (important!)
Pilot bearing
HT Urea grease
Expect to spend about $800-1K in parts.
try hondaautomotiveparts.com
If you're doing this clutch job as a flip, or you're gonna sell the car in a few months, you can save money by going aftermarket. But...let the buyer know what you've done.
Aftermarket kits with the FCC disc seem to work fine. But...its still aftermarket.
At about 14-15 seconds in, I see and hear the clutch slipping I believe. If you notice, the RPM climbs, then starts to drop a bit while speed is only increasing, indicating it is slipping a bit. Seems like it is not pulling hard in other places too but of course cannot see how much throttle you are applying either.
If you run up to about 30 mph in 2nd, put it in third , release the clutch normally, but then go full throttle right after, does it slip even worse? Likely will in that case if a bad clutch.
If you run up to about 30 mph in 2nd, put it in third , release the clutch normally, but then go full throttle right after, does it slip even worse? Likely will in that case if a bad clutch.
Make another video and call out the gear you're in. Or simply video the car at 30mph in 3d gear and then mashing the right peddle both rpm and speed should increase at equal rates if the clutch is good.
AP1 engine & gearbox:
Speed per 1000 rpm 4.8 mph/1000 rpm
Or
(1) 14.4 mph @ 3000 rpm
(2) 22.2 mph @ 3000 rpm
(3) 30.6mph @ 3000 rpm <-- the speedo and tach will "match" at 30 and 3000. Press on the pedal and both should rise to 40/4000, 50/5000, all the way up to red line.
(4) 39.0 mph @ 3000 rpm
(5) 46.5 mph @ 3000 rpm
(6) 55.8 mph @ 3000 rpm
Manual transmissions are mechanically connected to the clutch and engine. It's impossible for rpms to change without a corresponding change in speed Up or Down -- as long as the clutch is working properly.
-- Chuck.
AP1 engine & gearbox:
Speed per 1000 rpm 4.8 mph/1000 rpm
Or
(1) 14.4 mph @ 3000 rpm
(2) 22.2 mph @ 3000 rpm
(3) 30.6mph @ 3000 rpm <-- the speedo and tach will "match" at 30 and 3000. Press on the pedal and both should rise to 40/4000, 50/5000, all the way up to red line.
(4) 39.0 mph @ 3000 rpm
(5) 46.5 mph @ 3000 rpm
(6) 55.8 mph @ 3000 rpm
Manual transmissions are mechanically connected to the clutch and engine. It's impossible for rpms to change without a corresponding change in speed Up or Down -- as long as the clutch is working properly.
-- Chuck.
Last edited by Chuck S; Jun 3, 2024 at 12:59 PM.










