Yea, I use a Muz Mat too and the decreased dust will help with less scratches, but if you notice carefully when the top goes down the top part of the convertible (on the outside, above the window) folds over and contacts the plastic window about 2-3 inches from the bottom. If the top is dirty you can (well, I do) expect scratches.

Overall, I would still recommend the TSB.

 

The tube that I made is covered with flannel and has a "tail" to it with prevents the window from rubbing on itself. The flannel "tail" gets sandwiched between the plastic window when it folds.

 

That will do the trick...i don't use a tube with tail when i just put the top down, but it might be a good idea to do that when i actually get out of the car and put the boot on.

 

This a bit different issue but here it is anyways. Everytime I use the boot, i hear the rubber/garter rattling at certain speeds. Does anyone have this too. If so, what kind of solutions did y'all do?

Thanks,

 

Open the file using Illustrator----- which is in the accesories section of the Windows menu. You will see a page selection icon at the top middle of the page when you open the file in Illustrator that allows you to see the multiple pages.


As to the boot, has anybody thought of getting some plastic similar to the tabs, and extending them by riviting them (and glueing) to the existing tabs....thus making them longer and better able to fit 'into' the roof cavity?

Just a thought :-)

 

Yes, I have.

 

I've done the TSB 3 times. Initially, I lowered the top as low as I could without excess tension on the bottom rear of the top (about 12 turns of the stops). The top looked great-very flat and the boot fit easily, but I got some nasty folds and scratches in the window. Did it again (about 10 turns lower than original) with same result. Finally, settled on about 8 turns down, with the corner of the top 1 1/2 inches from molding as measured on TSB (Honda suggests 5 turns and 1 3/4 inches). Does not fold as flat, but boot works fine (no pop up) and the window shows no wear and tear. Once you find the approximate range for the correct adjustment, each turn chnges the stowed position dramatically, so you have to have some patience and bracket the setting you want until getting it right. I painted white stripes on the stops before I started, so that I was accurate in counting turns. Also, you'll probably have to adjust the up stops to get the right tension on the locking clamps when you are done. So, check that before replacing the side panels.

 

Has anyone performed this fix on an '02 or newer model? Can someone please send me the pdf/tif document so I can try to do it myself? Thanks.

 

A suggestion....I had this problem as well but what ended up working for me was once the boot was in place I'd stand behind the car,put a hand on each side of the boot,push down and pull back.