brake fluid change
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by owenxguo,Apr 6 2005, 08:30 PM
I bought the fliud before the event and tried to change it, but just heard somebody told me that might hurt the ABS, so just asking you guys before doing that.
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From: Covington WA, USA
Originally Posted by owenxguo,Apr 6 2005, 07:30 PM
just because went to the Thunderhill track evnet this Monday, and after 6 session 2 hours track time, damn the brake is hot, the rotor pad and fluid, even the rims are over 100' and after 3 session, the brake is hard to stop the car as well. I don't want spend too much money to upgrade the whole system at this time(but I do really like the ENDLESS
), since the brake pads need to change, I will go drill the rotor and change better pads and maybe brake line, of course the fluid.
I bought the fliud before the event and tried to change it, but just heard somebody told me that might hurt the ABS, so just asking you guys before doing that.
thx a lot for helping me here guys.....
), since the brake pads need to change, I will go drill the rotor and change better pads and maybe brake line, of course the fluid. I bought the fliud before the event and tried to change it, but just heard somebody told me that might hurt the ABS, so just asking you guys before doing that.
thx a lot for helping me here guys.....
Higher temp pads and a decent DOT4 fluid like ATE or Motul will do you fine. I'm not familiar with Synpower, but it might be OK too. Or it might not be.
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From: Covington WA, USA
Originally Posted by BNavZ,Apr 6 2005, 07:37 PM
I was also interested in doing a brake fluid flush and change... I just had one question... How much fluid should I get? How much fluid does the braking system hold in total?
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by BNavZ,Apr 6 2005, 08:37 PM
I was also interested in doing a brake fluid flush and change... I just had one question... How much fluid should I get??
Originally Posted by BNavZ,Apr 6 2005, 08:37 PM
How much fluid does the braking system hold in total?
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Apr 6 2005, 08:50 PM
Drilling the rotor won't help you in the least. And SS brake lines have nothing to do with heat capacity.
Higher temp pads and a decent DOT4 fluid like ATE or Motul will do you fine. I'm not familiar with Synpower, but it might be OK too. Or it might not be.
Higher temp pads and a decent DOT4 fluid like ATE or Motul will do you fine. I'm not familiar with Synpower, but it might be OK too. Or it might not be.
Ya beat me to the last post
What Mike said is true. With a good set of pads and fluid, (providing you spend the time to thoroughly flush the system with the new fluid) You may never drive the car hard enough to cause brake fade unless you drive like Mario Andretti or some $hit.
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From: ny
Originally Posted by soslow64,Apr 6 2005, 03:54 PM
IT WONT HURT THE ABS IF U EMTPY THE BRAKE FLUID OUT.
JUST REMOVED THE OLD BRAKE FLUID FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER.
ADD THE NEW FLUID AND BLEED THE BRAKES.
START AT THE FARTHEST WHEEL FROM THE BRAKE MASTER. THEN WORK
YOUR WAY BACK TO THE CLOSEST WHEEL.
SO RIGHT REAR, LEFT REAR, RIGHT FRONT, LEFT FRONT.
THEN TAKE IT OUT FOR A GOOD BRAKE CHECK (PANIC STOP, TO MAKE ABS
CYCLE).
-CESAR
JUST REMOVED THE OLD BRAKE FLUID FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER.
ADD THE NEW FLUID AND BLEED THE BRAKES.
START AT THE FARTHEST WHEEL FROM THE BRAKE MASTER. THEN WORK
YOUR WAY BACK TO THE CLOSEST WHEEL.
SO RIGHT REAR, LEFT REAR, RIGHT FRONT, LEFT FRONT.
THEN TAKE IT OUT FOR A GOOD BRAKE CHECK (PANIC STOP, TO MAKE ABS
CYCLE).
-CESAR
btw, for s2000 the order of brake bleeding is driver's front, psg front, psg rear, & driver's rear. check the service manual book given to honda techs
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From: Irvine, SoCal
Motive Brake Bleeder is the simplest tool for brake bleeding by one person. I used it to bleed the brakes on E430 and LS400, you need an adapter to use on European cars.
This is how I bleated my cars:
1. Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder with a syringe as much as soppible
2. Refill the master cylinder with dot-4 fluid to the rim
3. Fill the Motive Brake Bleeder with 2 pints dot-4 fluid
4. Pump the Motive Brake Bleeder to about 25-28 PSI
5. Open the farthest bleeder valve first until new-clear fluid coming out, then close the bleeder valve. Repeat the procedure for three other bleeder valves, with the shortest bleeder valve last. You may have to pump the Motive Brake Bleeder few more pumps after bleeding the first one or two wheels
6. Disconnect the Motive Brake Bleeder from master cylinder, avoid spilling any brake fluid if possible.
7. Add or remove brake fluid from master cylinder as needed
8. Start engine, applying the brake several times to check for brake feel, it should be firm as before bleeding
This is how I bleated my cars:
1. Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder with a syringe as much as soppible
2. Refill the master cylinder with dot-4 fluid to the rim
3. Fill the Motive Brake Bleeder with 2 pints dot-4 fluid
4. Pump the Motive Brake Bleeder to about 25-28 PSI
5. Open the farthest bleeder valve first until new-clear fluid coming out, then close the bleeder valve. Repeat the procedure for three other bleeder valves, with the shortest bleeder valve last. You may have to pump the Motive Brake Bleeder few more pumps after bleeding the first one or two wheels
6. Disconnect the Motive Brake Bleeder from master cylinder, avoid spilling any brake fluid if possible.
7. Add or remove brake fluid from master cylinder as needed
8. Start engine, applying the brake several times to check for brake feel, it should be firm as before bleeding
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From: Covington WA, USA
Originally Posted by owenxguo,Apr 6 2005, 10:38 PM
cause I will do everything by myself so I dont mind to spend time for drill the rotors, and why I am doing that because I will also DIY the air duct to brake.