Buying without seeing in person
I live in RI and looking at a few s2k's in North/South Carolina. I don't think I will ever find one I want in my area. I have been doing my best to evaluate the cars from a distance but as things get closer I have a couple questions in case I am missing something:
1. If I do buy the car from a distance - what types of things should I make sure I have a good picture of which may be hiding in a general picture (I'm asking for good pictures for many areas but wasn't sure if there is place you always look at on these.
2. Anyone have any experience with transport? Companies to use, type of transport, estimated costs? Any advice here is appreciated.
Thank you in advance...
1. If I do buy the car from a distance - what types of things should I make sure I have a good picture of which may be hiding in a general picture (I'm asking for good pictures for many areas but wasn't sure if there is place you always look at on these.
2. Anyone have any experience with transport? Companies to use, type of transport, estimated costs? Any advice here is appreciated.
Thank you in advance...
I was in your situation when I was shopping for mine, after driving myself crazy for a couple months I found one that met my parameters. It was about 1k mi away from me & had no way of laying eyes on it myself or someone I trusted to do that for me.
1. Ask about the Vin tags
2. Get pics of the undercarriage
3. Ask for a Carfax if possible to get vehicle history
That's just some of the things to look for & I'm sure there will others who will add more in this thread. I flew out to pick up my car & drove it back home, great weekend trip.
1. Ask about the Vin tags
2. Get pics of the undercarriage
3. Ask for a Carfax if possible to get vehicle history
That's just some of the things to look for & I'm sure there will others who will add more in this thread. I flew out to pick up my car & drove it back home, great weekend trip.
I'm guessing a max somewhere between $2 and $3 per mile for a hot shot delivery from the Carolinas to Rhode Island say 900 miles or $1800 to $2700. Doubt the rate is much less than $2. UHaul car trailer behind your pickup is about $120/day...
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
I live in RI and looking at a few s2k's in North/South Carolina. I don't think I will ever find one I want in my area. I have been doing my best to evaluate the cars from a distance but as things get closer I have a couple questions in case I am missing something:
1. If I do buy the car from a distance - what types of things should I make sure I have a good picture of which may be hiding in a general picture (I'm asking for good pictures for many areas but wasn't sure if there is place you always look at on these.
2. Anyone have any experience with transport? Companies to use, type of transport, estimated costs? Any advice here is appreciated.
Thank you in advance...
1. If I do buy the car from a distance - what types of things should I make sure I have a good picture of which may be hiding in a general picture (I'm asking for good pictures for many areas but wasn't sure if there is place you always look at on these.
2. Anyone have any experience with transport? Companies to use, type of transport, estimated costs? Any advice here is appreciated.
Thank you in advance...
Unlike the Mighty Car Mods guys I'd not buy a car sight unseen. I'd want to inspect it before handing over the check. @Birdybog here in Richmond flew up to Connecticut and bought a car from a known purveyor of good used sports cars and drove it back down 500+ miles thru NYC, Philadelphia, DC, etc!. All in one day as I recall -- younger and more daring then me! 
-- Chuck

-- Chuck
I assume you are looking for a good S2k primarily for the street. If you are buying from a dealer I think you should be extremely careful. As said above, get shots of every VIN and definitely get a car-fax report. I would want shots of the top and assurance that there are no tears or leaks. I would want shots of the undercarriage. Shots of the seats - especially the drivers side bolster. I would avoid anything that has any signs of having been boosted or tracked. Avoid cars with rolled or pulled fenders. Avoid cars with body kits. To me these things are warning signs to be avoided especially if the car is being sold by a dealer. Also, ask for a picture of the bottom of the front lip. Expect some scrapes and dings. But, at least with a picture you will know what to expect.
Personally, I would not buy a DBW ap2 without a properly done compression test. Valves on 2006 and newer MY s2ks have a tendency to tighten and burn.
You might find a lot more cars on the market in a few months.
The pre purchase inspection work might be different depending on the mileage and year and accident history.
If you PM the listing to a few members here you might get some good ideas.
I bought my current low mileage car sight unseen from a mature private seller who purchased the car new. I trusted him. I would NEVER trust a dealer. I don't think I would buy a car from a dealer sight unseen. Maybe, but doubtful.
Personally, I would not buy a DBW ap2 without a properly done compression test. Valves on 2006 and newer MY s2ks have a tendency to tighten and burn.
You might find a lot more cars on the market in a few months.
The pre purchase inspection work might be different depending on the mileage and year and accident history.
If you PM the listing to a few members here you might get some good ideas.
I bought my current low mileage car sight unseen from a mature private seller who purchased the car new. I trusted him. I would NEVER trust a dealer. I don't think I would buy a car from a dealer sight unseen. Maybe, but doubtful.
Last edited by rpg51; Jan 18, 2021 at 09:25 AM.
According to dealer - car was traded in from older man/wife. 2004 GPW w/tan. 70k mileage. I've seen all 10 vins and basic pictures under hood and under car. All look clean. Carfax is clean - honda serviced at all intervals. Car driven about 15k per year when purchased then hardly driven for 10 years. I believe it was stored because I noticed some cob webs underneath pre-recon. Inspected at their Merc dealer - all passed, recharged a/c.....of course they already knew they had a buyer so who knows if they decided not to do any work.
Based on history I would be surprised if modified, but is there a way to tell if fenders have been modified etc.
Based on history I would be surprised if modified, but is there a way to tell if fenders have been modified etc.
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According to dealer - car was traded in from older man/wife. 2004 GPW w/tan. 70k mileage. I've seen all 10 vins and basic pictures under hood and under car. All look clean. Carfax is clean - honda serviced at all intervals. Car driven about 15k per year when purchased then hardly driven for 10 years. I believe it was stored because I noticed some cob webs underneath pre-recon. Inspected at their Merc dealer - all passed, recharged a/c.....of course they already knew they had a buyer so who knows if they decided not to do any work.
Based on history I would be surprised if modified, but is there a way to tell if fenders have been modified etc.
Based on history I would be surprised if modified, but is there a way to tell if fenders have been modified etc.
Ask for pics of the outter edge of the fenders inside the wheel well, hard to hide if the fenders have been modified.
Every situation and car is different. I happened to get my 2009 sight unseen from a dealer in another state: Arizona. Lots of pics and as we negotiated over the phone we agreed, in writing, that the deal was contingent on the car being as advertised and presented. I actually paid for the car and it was 2 weeks before I could fly down there to see it, sign the final docs, and have a ball driving it back home for 3 days.
I might add it was the first time I was ever behind the wheel of an S2000.
I might add it was the first time I was ever behind the wheel of an S2000.
When I bought my car, I basically made the deal with the owner by email and over the phone. When we agreed on price, the purchase was subject to my being satisfied with the car on inspection. I got a bank check made payable to myself to endorse over to the seller, and jumped on a plane, met the seller, inspected the car, did the paperwork and drove the car home. I probably used the seller's plates for the ride home and sent them back as soon as I arrived home; or perhaps I had temporary plates from my home state. Can't remember that detail. My car only had about 3,200 miles on it as the owner had been deployed to Iraq. If it had had 32,000 miles, I might have opted for a pre-purchase mechanical inspection.














