Last week I started getting noise from my rear brake pad telling me my pads were getting low , I probably drove. Few hundred miles with it like that . Weekend came and I was able to change both rotors and pads . I’ve now run into 2 issues , my wheel will not for some reason sit flush to the hub on 2 of the wheels and it’s small gap. The 2nd problem is my car now has this vibration/shake no matter the speed but more noticeable at lower 5-30 mph . My tires are about 10k miles on them but still have a lot of tread left , I’m really concerned as to what this could be . Also my steering wheel shakes as well , like a slight back and fourth motion . My car is parked in my driveway outside and I have no idea what this may be .. 93k miles MY03

 

This is a repeat post.
Check to make sure you didn't try and install the front wheels on the rear...?
Sounds like the wheels are now not fitting flush with the hub... which is odd.
Are you sure the rotors you got are correct for the car?

 

Sorry for the repeat , this one did have some other info in it tho . But this is the set I installed https://www.kseriesparts.com/STP-925...SABEgLKsvD_BwE

is their a flaw in the way I’m putting wheels on ? Set them on , their weight is supported by the studs while susupended from the jack . I try to hand tighten the lugs while keeping the wheel flat to the hub because it naturally wants to tilt because it’s dangling . Tighten in a star pattern , then let the car down and torque them in a star pattern as well .

 

Some pictures of the rear wheels might be good. Id consider jacking the car up and removing the wheels again, take some pics of the back of the wheel, the hub area and then pic mounted on the car. See if we can see anything out of the norm.

 

Will do , gonna redo everything in the morning . I will post detailed pictures then , in the mean time this is the gap I’m referring to

 

Yeah that gap should not be there, this is the source of your vibration. Why it is there is the big question.

 

I can get it sit flush when I’m supporting the wheel as I tighten it , but that’s hard to do alone and also it might look flush where I can see while supporting it but be uneven at the bottom . Maybe having someone help might be the solution , idk . Going to take all the wheels off tomorrow and get you guys some detailed pictures and stuff.

 

You should be tightening the wheel to at least 75-90% of the max trq spec with the wheels up in the air so its properly seated before the car weight is even on them, then do the final trq spec with car on the ground fully weighted. You can do this buy putting the car in gear or the E brake on for the rear, and for the front just lower the jack enough to put enough weight of the car on the wheel to keep it from spinning once you do the initial tightening by hand.

 

Are you on stock wheels or aftermarket? Do you have any hub rings on your wheels? If you do have hub rings, check to see if they are mounted flush against your hub.

 

I will try that thanks , I have been just tightening them with my hand socket until their snug but not too tight . Will try that