It is that simple, as the S2000 starter button has only five pins.

2 for the actual switch, 2 for the backlight and 1 for dimming the backlight.

Most people will find it quite simple to purchase the male version of the plug, plug it into the existing socket (so no hacking is required) and solder and heatshrink the wires onto whatever switch you wish to use.

A switch is a switch and the OEM item does not have any special characteristics. The OEM switch is used to activate a relay connected to the ignition wiresThe OEM switches contacts can only handle low amperage meaning that basically any other switch no matter how sh!t the quality will do the job.

 

Hahhaa... Welcome to my life about 8 months ago.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...3964#post713964

I ended up finding the blue lens with the correct logo from some place in Texas... they had 1 left. When I received the lens, the lettering didn't look the same as in the picture, so I lost the excitement on the project. I'm eventually gonna take the painted on lettering off with some rubbing alcohol and install it in the OEM switch housing, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

Just borrow some fingernail polish from your girlfriend and slap some on. If you are careful, you won't even have to remove the button to work on it. There's some wild colors in fingernail polish!

 

DJ,

You need to stop thinking of projects so I can stop thinking of ways to help you out

Once you get the ugly lettering off, make up a template of the lettering you DO want on the computer, most likely using a program that stores the shapes in a vector format (I think even Paint Shop Pro does this). Take the file to a local sign shop and ask them if they would cut out the design (at the correct size) from a piece of sticky mylar. Place the mylar on the lens and, being very careful not to scratch the mylar or move it, rub down the edges of the letters so there are no gaps. Give the lens several VERY light coats of black paint to block the light (the light coats prevent the paint from wicking under the mylar from capillary action...the paint is almost dry by the time it hits the lens), letting each coat dry properly, followed by a couple of coats of white (or whatever other color you choose). Once that has dried, remove the mylar, sit back and enjoy the new look. Don't forget to cover the entire lens with a couple coats of clear finish to prevent scratches.

I've used this technique successfully several times in the past to label the control boxes of various projects. You could do a whole sheet of them for probably $20-$30, and sell the finished lenses for a few bucks online.

As always with my freebie ideas, if you make any money, I only ask you buy me a beer if I'm ever in your part of the globe

 

I havn't looked back there, but I'm just assuming there are only a few wires needed for such a button... it really only has like what, 3 functions? backlight, dimmer for the backlight when you switch your headlamps on, and the actual starter function.

Can't be *that* hard.

 

MY response did not mean it could not be done or was all that complicated to do. Your last function stated was "actual starter function" is what I have a problem with. Your wanting to compromise a NEEDED function of your vehicle with some cheap piece of crap and that makes no sense. The first time you are stuck in the middle of no where with a disabled start button you will wish you never changed it. Sure you can still push start it but have you ever tried this alone? How many post's on here do you see about failed start buttons? The reason its red is to match the racing theme of major functions be it a start button, fire extinguisher or kill switch.

 

San, Since this piece really doesn't control any power (only the contacts to a relay placed elsewhere), I don't see this swap as much of an issue. I would be concerned if the acrualy starter current flowed through there, as quality issue become a major concern with high currents. Swapping this switch is not much different than any other piece of aftermarket add-on...and if I suddenly find it not working, I'll just pup the cover off and touch the two wires together directly...you know which ones they are once you've swapped the piece.

 

Where can I buy a good blue starter? I want it to fit the factory plugs with no modification to the dash. Anyone ever change it out and have any pics?

 

MacGyver, I understand your point but the amount of amp's flowing through the switch is not my concern its the "quality" of the switch. I have seen a $.20 toggle switch fail but that was only controlling lights not starting the car. I don't know how many people on here could pull the panel for the switch and touch the wires together at 2am in the dark.

 

Just a little teaser...