Clutch Comparison
#1
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Clutch Comparison
With the upgrades I am doing to my AP1, im expecting 230+ possibly even more at the rear wheels. I have originally decided on using the ACT heavy duty pressure plate with OEM disk and Comptech Flywheel, something which xviper had suggested to me which is a tested system which works. For some reason i am starting to double think my decision as the car is tracked often and I didn't originally plan for this much power. Has anyone ever used the Exedy Stage 3 Hyper Single Plate Clutch? how does it compare? how does it hold up?
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I have the J's racing clutch which is similar to the Exedy stage 3. It hold up pretty well and it is not floating disk so it will not make that kind of "ringing" sound.
My car is making 220whp and it is doing the job for me. The only thing that I don't like si the clutsh is quite grabby so it makes it little hard to aim the clutch point.
My car is making 220whp and it is doing the job for me. The only thing that I don't like si the clutsh is quite grabby so it makes it little hard to aim the clutch point.
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What about modulation on the J's clutch? I might just stick with the setup I have and if I have slipping issues I will change it over to something higher. Whats wrong with ACT pressure plates?
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I am a little confuse here, what do you by modulation of the clutch ?
ACT pressure plates are well known to be harsh, they are so strong that when you change gears and pop the clutch, you will actually build more load to the gears = kill the gears faster.
ACT pressure plates are well known to be harsh, they are so strong that when you change gears and pop the clutch, you will actually build more load to the gears = kill the gears faster.
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Originally Posted by AJ PwR,Oct 21 2006, 07:27 PM
I am a little confuse here, what do you by modulation of the clutch ?
ACT pressure plates are well known to be harsh, they are so strong that when you change gears and pop the clutch, you will actually build more load to the gears = kill the gears faster.
ACT pressure plates are well known to be harsh, they are so strong that when you change gears and pop the clutch, you will actually build more load to the gears = kill the gears faster.
That's how I'd define it anyway!
Drive Safe,
Steve R.
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Originally Posted by Intrepid175,Oct 22 2006, 12:49 AM
It's just a matter of how smoothly the clutch can be made to release and take up drive pressures without excess slippage and not exibit the harshness you describe.
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#8
Originally Posted by AJ PwR,Oct 20 2006, 05:17 PM
I have the J's racing clutch which is similar to the Exedy stage 3. It hold up pretty well and it is not floating disk so it will not make that kind of "ringing" sound.
My car is making 220whp and it is doing the job for me. The only thing that I don't like si the clutsh is quite grabby so it makes it little hard to aim the clutch point.
My car is making 220whp and it is doing the job for me. The only thing that I don't like si the clutsh is quite grabby so it makes it little hard to aim the clutch point.
The thing grabs hard as AJR pointed out it's peddle feel is a little more stiff than stock as well.
Cons:
It's a bit tricky to feather reverse and she will chatter a bit when you do so.
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How does it differ from stock? does it grab quicker than stock? The grab hard part I am trying to figure out what it feels like/means. All the car's Ive ever owned including my track car are on stock clutches or slightly better than stock.
How is it for daily driving, the modulation, engagement point (same as stock, consistant?) how loud is the chatter?
How is it for daily driving, the modulation, engagement point (same as stock, consistant?) how loud is the chatter?
#10
The original setup that xViper suggested is a well proven setup. Many people on this forum track with that setup and I am pretty sure that includes a number of FI peeps. If you are worried about power holding head over to the Forced induction board, and also stop by the track/racing board and see what they suggest over there.