Clutch replacement?
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Joined: May 2014
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My two cents here...
I recently replaced my clutch. It only had 53K on it. Before green lighting the work, I did some research on SK2I to get an idea of how long to expect the clutch to last because I don't drive my car hard and was expecting at least 75K out of the clutch I replaced 15 years ago. The results of that research? Wildly inconsistent. There were SK2I users with as little as 20K and as much as 125K on their S2000 clutch. Largely driving style was noted as a contributing factor.
I can't speak to the clues that you should look for that would indicate a new clutch is needed - I have replaced my clutch twice in 16 years of ownership (MY2001) and I am still at a loss as to what evidence is presented when driving the car to indicate the need. However, if your car has 83K on the odometer I would bet you need a new clutch or are at least very close.
I recently replaced my clutch. It only had 53K on it. Before green lighting the work, I did some research on SK2I to get an idea of how long to expect the clutch to last because I don't drive my car hard and was expecting at least 75K out of the clutch I replaced 15 years ago. The results of that research? Wildly inconsistent. There were SK2I users with as little as 20K and as much as 125K on their S2000 clutch. Largely driving style was noted as a contributing factor.
I can't speak to the clues that you should look for that would indicate a new clutch is needed - I have replaced my clutch twice in 16 years of ownership (MY2001) and I am still at a loss as to what evidence is presented when driving the car to indicate the need. However, if your car has 83K on the odometer I would bet you need a new clutch or are at least very close.
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,751
Likes: 1,855
I bet a lot of clutches on this car get replaced unnecessarily.
Most of the clutch symptoms people report are due to the clutch not fully disengaging (the opposite of worn clutch), not a worn, slipping clutch. This cars clutch is very sensitive to clutch fluid condition and trapped air, and adjustment. It also doesn't like aftermarket clutches. These fail early, but almost never wear out, because they fail mechanically before that can ever happen (they drop a spring, car become undrivable because clutch can't be disengaged at all.)
When clutch starts acting up, they bring it to a shop, who wants to replace the clutch instead of actually diagnosing the issue. Then if an aftermarket clutch is used, the clutch will fail for real long before the original woukd have if only the real issue had been addressed by tbe shop.
Its not entirely the shops fault if they aren't familiar with this cars unique clutch concerns.
There is someone in this forum that has over 300k miles on his original clutch. Yes, dang. Not saying they can all last that long, but it bolsters notion that perfectly fine clutches are being replaced by people rhat don't know how to properly diagnose and correct this cars clutch issues.
Do a proper gravity bleed until all fresh fluid. If it was really dirry bleed it again in about a month of use (fresh fluid will continue to was built up residue off piston, etc.)
Adjust clutch rod (watch excellent diy youtube video)
Check clutch pedal height adjustment
If someone replaced oem clutch woth aftermarket, may bot be possible to get clutch working properly until a proper Honda oem clutch is installed. Note, Exedy OEM is NOT the oem clutch. Just a marketing gimick.
Most of the clutch symptoms people report are due to the clutch not fully disengaging (the opposite of worn clutch), not a worn, slipping clutch. This cars clutch is very sensitive to clutch fluid condition and trapped air, and adjustment. It also doesn't like aftermarket clutches. These fail early, but almost never wear out, because they fail mechanically before that can ever happen (they drop a spring, car become undrivable because clutch can't be disengaged at all.)
When clutch starts acting up, they bring it to a shop, who wants to replace the clutch instead of actually diagnosing the issue. Then if an aftermarket clutch is used, the clutch will fail for real long before the original woukd have if only the real issue had been addressed by tbe shop.
Its not entirely the shops fault if they aren't familiar with this cars unique clutch concerns.
There is someone in this forum that has over 300k miles on his original clutch. Yes, dang. Not saying they can all last that long, but it bolsters notion that perfectly fine clutches are being replaced by people rhat don't know how to properly diagnose and correct this cars clutch issues.
Do a proper gravity bleed until all fresh fluid. If it was really dirry bleed it again in about a month of use (fresh fluid will continue to was built up residue off piston, etc.)
Adjust clutch rod (watch excellent diy youtube video)
Check clutch pedal height adjustment
If someone replaced oem clutch woth aftermarket, may bot be possible to get clutch working properly until a proper Honda oem clutch is installed. Note, Exedy OEM is NOT the oem clutch. Just a marketing gimick.
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Joined: May 2014
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I honestly think many make this more "special" than it really is. It is a hydraulic clutch. Bleed it properly like any other and it will keep working fine. Have never had issues of having to bleed it again unless I did something to warrant it. Have never touched the clutch adjustment in the 50,000 miles I have owned it and find it engages at the right spot. Choosing the right parts is key but otherwise it is a pretty reliable and easy system to work on. I would say any capable shop should be able to diagnose and work on it just fine. Many shops nowadays just like to be parts replacers instead of actually digging in to find the issue and that is more of a shop issue not some special thing about the S2k. I also think that as it wears, some start fiddling with the adjustment and get it in a bad place, leading to them thinking there are other issues.
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,751
Likes: 1,855
Well, I do have to admit mine has been very trouble free & maintenance free since I replaced the crappy aftermarket clutch the car came with back to all Honda parts (with act pp & streetlite flywheel), and grwased everything properly. I just do a mc fluid swap every other oil change. Adjusted clutch rod maybe once.
But man was the thing finicky when it had the aftermarket junk from the PPO (original owner, I got it from second owner). The car only had 67k miles when I got it. I can't imagine the original owner wore the clutch out that quickly (replacement had to have been even lower miles than that, as owner I got it from bought in FL, drove to upstate NY, and drove it around for a year.)
So original clutch replaced (probably) unnecessarily, then aftermarket clutch never worked right. Eventually failed like they all do (dropped spring).
No amount of adjusting clutch rod or pedal height or clutch fluid or greasing shifter or fresh fluid or polishing/ greasing fork knob would get the aftermarket clutch to work right. It was probably due to grease, wrong type, wrong amount, wrong places.
So a shop that is too lazy to diagnose the clutch issue is likely to also be too lazy to read tbe service manual, obtain the correct grease, and apply it properly. So new clutch, even a crappy aftermarket one, will 'fix' the issues, for a little while. But then soon it'll start acting up again, as the wrong grease missing from the right places will catch up to you.
Bottom line:
Don't replace clutch unless its actually slipping or dropped a spring
If its not shifting right, diagnose and address the actual issues
If you do need to replace the clutch, make sure to either diy (and follow service manual and use Honda urea grease and Honda parts), or find a shop that has experience and success doing clutch on this car. Barring that, a shop willing to follow service manual and use the proper grease and proper parts.
But man was the thing finicky when it had the aftermarket junk from the PPO (original owner, I got it from second owner). The car only had 67k miles when I got it. I can't imagine the original owner wore the clutch out that quickly (replacement had to have been even lower miles than that, as owner I got it from bought in FL, drove to upstate NY, and drove it around for a year.)
So original clutch replaced (probably) unnecessarily, then aftermarket clutch never worked right. Eventually failed like they all do (dropped spring).
No amount of adjusting clutch rod or pedal height or clutch fluid or greasing shifter or fresh fluid or polishing/ greasing fork knob would get the aftermarket clutch to work right. It was probably due to grease, wrong type, wrong amount, wrong places.
So a shop that is too lazy to diagnose the clutch issue is likely to also be too lazy to read tbe service manual, obtain the correct grease, and apply it properly. So new clutch, even a crappy aftermarket one, will 'fix' the issues, for a little while. But then soon it'll start acting up again, as the wrong grease missing from the right places will catch up to you.
Bottom line:
Don't replace clutch unless its actually slipping or dropped a spring
If its not shifting right, diagnose and address the actual issues
If you do need to replace the clutch, make sure to either diy (and follow service manual and use Honda urea grease and Honda parts), or find a shop that has experience and success doing clutch on this car. Barring that, a shop willing to follow service manual and use the proper grease and proper parts.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,702
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
I'm not really sure why anyone feels the clutch needs periodic adjustment.
Its adjusted from the factory.
The pedal engagement should stay the same until the clutch has worn past its workable limit.
You shouldn't be adjusting for wear.
Like...you wouldn't top off brake fluid to account for pad wear.
I hope....
Its adjusted from the factory.
The pedal engagement should stay the same until the clutch has worn past its workable limit.
You shouldn't be adjusting for wear.
Like...you wouldn't top off brake fluid to account for pad wear.
I hope....
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 466
My two cents here...
I recently replaced my clutch. It only had 53K on it. Before green lighting the work, I did some research on SK2I to get an idea of how long to expect the clutch to last because I don't drive my car hard and was expecting at least 75K out of the clutch I replaced 15 years ago. The results of that research? Wildly inconsistent. There were SK2I users with as little as 20K and as much as 125K on their S2000 clutch. Largely driving style was noted as a contributing factor.
I can't speak to the clues that you should look for that would indicate a new clutch is needed - I have replaced my clutch twice in 16 years of ownership (MY2001) and I am still at a loss as to what evidence is presented when driving the car to indicate the need. However, if your car has 83K on the odometer I would bet you need a new clutch or are at least very close.
I recently replaced my clutch. It only had 53K on it. Before green lighting the work, I did some research on SK2I to get an idea of how long to expect the clutch to last because I don't drive my car hard and was expecting at least 75K out of the clutch I replaced 15 years ago. The results of that research? Wildly inconsistent. There were SK2I users with as little as 20K and as much as 125K on their S2000 clutch. Largely driving style was noted as a contributing factor.
I can't speak to the clues that you should look for that would indicate a new clutch is needed - I have replaced my clutch twice in 16 years of ownership (MY2001) and I am still at a loss as to what evidence is presented when driving the car to indicate the need. However, if your car has 83K on the odometer I would bet you need a new clutch or are at least very close.
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 3,296
Likes: 260
From: Vermont
Ask Billman to check it out when he has the car and follow his advice. He puts clutches in very quickly. Not a huge job for him at all. And, it will be done right. Personally, if I went to the trouble of getting my car to Billman with the mileage you have - I might just do the clutch even if it has life left. These cars are getting old and stuff starts to dry out and stick etc. But, bottom line is I would follow Billman's advice.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 450
I did have a shop tell me that mine felt weird. That shop was very familiar with S2000's as well and I will probably go to them to replace my clutch when the time comes. He may have been right but that was 15k+ miles ago.
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 7,892
Likes: 2,466
Yea... I've had an AP1 and an AP2, both right around 110k miles. I owned each for 2+ years and launched them probably 80+ times a year. Both were on the original clutch. Another guy I knew that autocrossed had his last to 180k+ before replacement. WTF are people doing to melt a clutch pre 80k?
I did have a shop tell me that mine felt weird. That shop was very familiar with S2000's as well and I will probably go to them to replace my clutch when the time comes. He may have been right but that was 15k+ miles ago.
I did have a shop tell me that mine felt weird. That shop was very familiar with S2000's as well and I will probably go to them to replace my clutch when the time comes. He may have been right but that was 15k+ miles ago.
