Coming From BMW
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,655
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Welcome. It's the purest sports car you'll ever get to own. It's also cheap and rock solid. 109k and mine has been driven hard, doesn't burn oil off the track.
06+ for reasons stated.
This isn't a tq type car. I drive a high tq AWD sedan (350tq), and I can tell you that while the TQ is fun, it's actually not what makes a car fast. When you learn to hit the sweet spot in this car you'll be in heaven. I'm also faster in this car then the sedan.
06+ for reasons stated.
This isn't a tq type car. I drive a high tq AWD sedan (350tq), and I can tell you that while the TQ is fun, it's actually not what makes a car fast. When you learn to hit the sweet spot in this car you'll be in heaven. I'm also faster in this car then the sedan.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 57
From: DFW
The only car I would avoid would be pre-02 cars, and only due to the plastic rear window. I've owned an '01 and currently have an '06. I prefer the added torque and tuning ability of the 06 car, but I did love the 9k RPM redline in the '01. Overall you can't go wrong, test drive a few and see what you prefer.
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 93
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
The first generation, ap1, is going to be a lot rawer than the ap2 model(04+), as the ap2 is a bit more civilized and street friendly with a better gear ratio. If you do choose to go ap2, and are wanting to mod your car, 06+ is gonna be your best bet as you will actually be able to tune the ecu.
This car is gonna be damn reliable no matter which year or generation you get as long as it was properly maintained and stays properly maintained.
Remember that when you do get your car and decide to go on a canyon run, do not test the limits of the car until you actually know what you are doing. This car is pretty notorious for making fools out of those who can not properly control the car.
This car is gonna be damn reliable no matter which year or generation you get as long as it was properly maintained and stays properly maintained.
Remember that when you do get your car and decide to go on a canyon run, do not test the limits of the car until you actually know what you are doing. This car is pretty notorious for making fools out of those who can not properly control the car.
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Joined: Oct 2012
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Get a Z4? I drove one last week and for 350mi and it was very good. Auto, Easy Navigation, Sport Button, Power Hardtop. Unfortunately, it will be 40-50g for a nice one. I picked my S cause of price and I wanted a convertible. For less than 20g, you get a sweet ride that isn't the same as car as every mustang, camaro, and miata you see on the road 24/7. I like that it is different.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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Test drove a 2002 today and fell in love. Drove a 350z also and its light years behind. I never thought I'd be leaving BMW for a Honda but I think the S2000 is an exception, RWD and 6 speed. Loved the interior and feel of the car and saw the reviews but wow that engine is amazing at 6k+. Missed the torque a little bit but nothing a CAI, Exhaust, Cams and tune can't fix. I'm not worried about any type of stability control. Owned an MR-2 and drove during winter so I'm guessing its the same type of oh crap your ass is in front of you capabilities. I raced for Mazda so a LSD and RWD I'm a happy camper. I'm thinking a nice exhaust system is going to be a must for this car, any weak spots ie cooling system for BMW to take care of before I start modding? I'm going to go through all the stickies but information changes frequently, I looked over the checklist for when buying one and actually it was perfect today and decided this 2002 wasn't the right one. Maintenance list then the most bang for your buck performance?
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,655
Likes: 171
Test drove a 2002 today and fell in love. Drove a 350z also and its light years behind. I never thought I'd be leaving BMW for a Honda but I think the S2000 is an exception, RWD and 6 speed. Loved the interior and feel of the car and saw the reviews but wow that engine is amazing at 6k+. Missed the torque a little bit but nothing a CAI, Exhaust, Cams and tune can't fix. I'm not worried about any type of stability control. Owned an MR-2 and drove during winter so I'm guessing its the same type of oh crap your ass is in front of you capabilities. I raced for Mazda so a LSD and RWD I'm a happy camper. I'm thinking a nice exhaust system is going to be a must for this car, any weak spots ie cooling system for BMW to take care of before I start modding? I'm going to go through all the stickies but information changes frequently, I looked over the checklist for when buying one and actually it was perfect today and decided this 2002 wasn't the right one. Maintenance list then the most bang for your buck performance?
Best bang for buck is Hondata system on a 06+. With great mid-range gains. Very little point in bolt ones for actual gains. The system is pretty strung out already. You'll spend serious coin trying to add power the N/A path.
Save your $7K for a SC kit and you'll be pushing 350hp in a 2800lbs car.
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 24
From: Chicago
Hey there Bimmerguy3,
I'll just add on to what others' have said above.
Keep in mind the S2000 is a driver's car, much less creature comforts than let's say a BMW you've owned, etc. However, even out of the box unmolested they ride very well in my opinion. So far when I got my 04 (with 7,200 miles on it last year!) .. I just changed all the fluids, gave it new tires, and it's run perfect. I mean it IS a honda, not to say every single honda will run problem-less, however I've never needed to do a single thing other than oil changes and change out the wiper blades aside from said above. I don't really pay oem price (though I never found it to expensive either) since my friend works for Honda so I get it at cost.
When I purchased my S especially with such low miles, I decided I was going to have just one goal with it, keep it oem-ish, and how I'd personally think Honda should have it from the factory.
That's why all I did was add the oem ap2 lip on, lowered it slightly (about 1.25), tint, uk exhaust mod on the oem exhaust and called it a day. I wouldn't have it any other way. This car, no matter how you slice and dice it, all the "what year/model is better.."-crap aside, will leave you smiling ear to ear, ranging from when you hit the 'Engine Start' button, to when you put the top down, to when you get hugged in by the snug seats through the corners.
I hope to see you back on here sooner than later.
- Jeff
I'll just add on to what others' have said above.
Keep in mind the S2000 is a driver's car, much less creature comforts than let's say a BMW you've owned, etc. However, even out of the box unmolested they ride very well in my opinion. So far when I got my 04 (with 7,200 miles on it last year!) .. I just changed all the fluids, gave it new tires, and it's run perfect. I mean it IS a honda, not to say every single honda will run problem-less, however I've never needed to do a single thing other than oil changes and change out the wiper blades aside from said above. I don't really pay oem price (though I never found it to expensive either) since my friend works for Honda so I get it at cost.
When I purchased my S especially with such low miles, I decided I was going to have just one goal with it, keep it oem-ish, and how I'd personally think Honda should have it from the factory.
That's why all I did was add the oem ap2 lip on, lowered it slightly (about 1.25), tint, uk exhaust mod on the oem exhaust and called it a day. I wouldn't have it any other way. This car, no matter how you slice and dice it, all the "what year/model is better.."-crap aside, will leave you smiling ear to ear, ranging from when you hit the 'Engine Start' button, to when you put the top down, to when you get hugged in by the snug seats through the corners.
I hope to see you back on here sooner than later.
- Jeff
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,751
Likes: 1,856
I DD my 06. I have an Audi A6 for when there is snow. I wanted the stability control since I DD in rain and cold. Turns out its not that big a deal. If you think you might not need it, you don't.
The AP2 has much more low end real world torque than the AP1 you drove. While you can't go wrong with any of them, if you are going to DD, I'd recommend AP2.
You asked how easy to work on. Compared to the German stuff you used to, its night and summer in Alaska 24 hours of daylight. This thing is so easy to work on. Example, Audi timing belt every 70K miles, $2K+, vs S2K timing chain tensioner that takes 15 min to swap and you don't have to remove anything else to get to it.
Its easy to work on, but you rarely need to. Reliable, long service life, easy to work on.
You asked about mods, well this car is so well sorted from the factory, most Cat back exhaust systems lose power compared to stock. That said, Cat is the weak link, and one of the few areas that can be improved on.
If you want a fun drivers car, and can put up with the ride and lack of creature comforts (and lack of huge torque), there is no better choice.
To put the torque thing in perspective, my previous fun car was a 71 Buick GS, with 410 ft/lbs of torque, at like 2,500 rpm's. I now have an AP2, and couldn't be happier. Don't miss the torque at all.
The AP2 has much more low end real world torque than the AP1 you drove. While you can't go wrong with any of them, if you are going to DD, I'd recommend AP2.
You asked how easy to work on. Compared to the German stuff you used to, its night and summer in Alaska 24 hours of daylight. This thing is so easy to work on. Example, Audi timing belt every 70K miles, $2K+, vs S2K timing chain tensioner that takes 15 min to swap and you don't have to remove anything else to get to it.
Its easy to work on, but you rarely need to. Reliable, long service life, easy to work on.
You asked about mods, well this car is so well sorted from the factory, most Cat back exhaust systems lose power compared to stock. That said, Cat is the weak link, and one of the few areas that can be improved on.
If you want a fun drivers car, and can put up with the ride and lack of creature comforts (and lack of huge torque), there is no better choice.
To put the torque thing in perspective, my previous fun car was a 71 Buick GS, with 410 ft/lbs of torque, at like 2,500 rpm's. I now have an AP2, and couldn't be happier. Don't miss the torque at all.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 21
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Have been reading and reading. Looks like I'm just going to do an exhaust for the sound, rims and some tint with maybe LED tails and maybe tint the front headlights the only unattractive part of the car is the amber corners and maybe it's because BMW made me love clear or smoked. I made the decision and funds will be here June 27th for the purchase. Jeff I appreciate the detailed response and I believe you had good points,I'm not too worried about creature comforts actually I was looking very hard for a push button start, ever since racing for Mazda I just love it. And I'm greatly excited to have some reliability. Now just need to find the right one.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 21
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I DD my 06. I have an Audi A6 for when there is snow. I wanted the stability control since I DD in rain and cold. Turns out its not that big a deal. If you think you might not need it, you don't.
The AP2 has much more low end real world torque than the AP1 you drove. While you can't go wrong with any of them, if you are going to DD, I'd recommend AP2.
You asked how easy to work on. Compared to the German stuff you used to, its night and summer in Alaska 24 hours of daylight. This thing is so easy to work on. Example, Audi timing belt every 70K miles, $2K+, vs S2K timing chain tensioner that takes 15 min to swap and you don't have to remove anything else to get to it.
Its easy to work on, but you rarely need to. Reliable, long service life, easy to work on.
You asked about mods, well this car is so well sorted from the factory, most Cat back exhaust systems lose power compared to stock. That said, Cat is the weak link, and one of the few areas that can be improved on.
If you want a fun drivers car, and can put up with the ride and lack of creature comforts (and lack of huge torque), there is no better choice.
To put the torque thing in perspective, my previous fun car was a 71 Buick GS, with 410 ft/lbs of torque, at like 2,500 rpm's. I now have an AP2, and couldn't be happier. Don't miss the torque at all.
The AP2 has much more low end real world torque than the AP1 you drove. While you can't go wrong with any of them, if you are going to DD, I'd recommend AP2.
You asked how easy to work on. Compared to the German stuff you used to, its night and summer in Alaska 24 hours of daylight. This thing is so easy to work on. Example, Audi timing belt every 70K miles, $2K+, vs S2K timing chain tensioner that takes 15 min to swap and you don't have to remove anything else to get to it.
Its easy to work on, but you rarely need to. Reliable, long service life, easy to work on.
You asked about mods, well this car is so well sorted from the factory, most Cat back exhaust systems lose power compared to stock. That said, Cat is the weak link, and one of the few areas that can be improved on.
If you want a fun drivers car, and can put up with the ride and lack of creature comforts (and lack of huge torque), there is no better choice.
To put the torque thing in perspective, my previous fun car was a 71 Buick GS, with 410 ft/lbs of torque, at like 2,500 rpm's. I now have an AP2, and couldn't be happier. Don't miss the torque at all.