Did a 180 on the freeway
Originally posted by DougM
One new rim and a wheel alignment later and she was good as new! Hope you are as lucky as I was.
One new rim and a wheel alignment later and she was good as new! Hope you are as lucky as I was.
/ mario
This is a piece of confirmation about one of the theories we've been floating around, which is that the VTEC changover is a point requireing added caution when cornering. It sounds exactly like what might seem to be "snap oversteer" so I can only guess you dismissed the term because it has been politicized. "Snap", to me merely means quick and unexpected, right?
Perhaps our mantra should become brake, shift and hit VTEC before the turn in.
Oh, unless conditions are less than ideal in which case, as Cedric says, VTEC is not an option.
Perhaps our mantra should become brake, shift and hit VTEC before the turn in.
Oh, unless conditions are less than ideal in which case, as Cedric says, VTEC is not an option.
There has been some discussion about aftermarket headers smoothing out power curve near the VTEC transition point. OTOH, if most of the spins were initiated by lifting off the throttle, rather than power oversteer, then VTEC would have nothing to do with it.
Toe-in, summer tires, peaky power curve, limited slip differential, 50/50 weight, low polar moment, stiff rear shocks ...
Hmmm... there seems to be a whole host of effects contributing to the spin problem. I know, I know, we can lump all them under the "driver error" category. If we don't ever put the key in the ignition the car will never spin, right? In spite of this, the car does have to be driven by imperfect humans. It still doesn't answer what engineering fixes can be applied to make the car more stable on the street for us mortals. You have the right not to agree with me about 'softening' such a hard-edged sports car, but remember this thing has headlamps, turn signals, a trunk, and a passenger seat. Compromises have already been made.
Toe-in, summer tires, peaky power curve, limited slip differential, 50/50 weight, low polar moment, stiff rear shocks ...
Hmmm... there seems to be a whole host of effects contributing to the spin problem. I know, I know, we can lump all them under the "driver error" category. If we don't ever put the key in the ignition the car will never spin, right? In spite of this, the car does have to be driven by imperfect humans. It still doesn't answer what engineering fixes can be applied to make the car more stable on the street for us mortals. You have the right not to agree with me about 'softening' such a hard-edged sports car, but remember this thing has headlamps, turn signals, a trunk, and a passenger seat. Compromises have already been made.
Perhaps our mantra should become brake, shift and hit VTEC before the turn in.
After four days at the Bob Bondurant School of High Performance Racing, I left with true appreciation for this concept. The various training drills that they take you through would help any of us modify our driving habits enough to avoid most of these "snap over steer" situations.
While I can't explain the details, I do suggest that if you have the means, you should attend one of these types of schools.
Glad you are safe.
Sorry to hear about your uneventful ride. It always happens at the end!! Just like when you are skiing or snowboarding and you say to yourself..."just one more run..."! That's always when you hurt yourself bad!!!
Re the damage, I hope it is just contained to the wheels. If so, don't involve your insurance company. Just buy a set of aftermarket wheels and tires..maybe 17's or 18's. Pay for a wheel alignment. You'll save much more in the meantime as you can apply the deductible to the wheels and your rates won't increase. Tell the bodyshop that it's not an insurance job and that you'll pay cash. They won't rip you off that way. Let them think you are going to replace the Honda wheels and they won't mark up the rest of the quote. Only when they start any repairs should you say that you are not going to replace the Honda wheels. By the way, if you DO buy Honda wheels again, go to H&A Accessories...see Trevor. They are by FAR the cheapest around and they are a board/forum sponsor. Their link is in the Group Buys section.
Other than that, I'm sure you've learnt your lesson. Save it for the track Schumacher!
Re the damage, I hope it is just contained to the wheels. If so, don't involve your insurance company. Just buy a set of aftermarket wheels and tires..maybe 17's or 18's. Pay for a wheel alignment. You'll save much more in the meantime as you can apply the deductible to the wheels and your rates won't increase. Tell the bodyshop that it's not an insurance job and that you'll pay cash. They won't rip you off that way. Let them think you are going to replace the Honda wheels and they won't mark up the rest of the quote. Only when they start any repairs should you say that you are not going to replace the Honda wheels. By the way, if you DO buy Honda wheels again, go to H&A Accessories...see Trevor. They are by FAR the cheapest around and they are a board/forum sponsor. Their link is in the Group Buys section.
Other than that, I'm sure you've learnt your lesson. Save it for the track Schumacher!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by VTECnDaRed1
[B]
In my case hitting VTEC initiated the spin and lifting of made it worse, but I got scared of hitting the car in front of me and reacted to that. Maybe I should have done differently, but that might have ended with hitting the other car. I guess I
[B]
In my case hitting VTEC initiated the spin and lifting of made it worse, but I got scared of hitting the car in front of me and reacted to that. Maybe I should have done differently, but that might have ended with hitting the other car. I guess I
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Billman250
New York - Metro New York S2000 Owners
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Feb 4, 2004 10:05 PM








