"Diff Saving" Launches/Burnouts?
As most S2000 owners know, our differentials are prone to failure, especially in high-horsepower setups. Hard launches and "wheel hop" are the worst culprits that lead to broken differentials.
I have however seen a fair number of people doing mild-mannered launches on stock differentials with decent results. Although it's still risky, I'd like to know what techniques to use to replicate results like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBs9vwa6Xgs (supposedly on a stock diff). I'm assuming that he's revving the car up high enough to break traction and allow for wheel spin, therefore decreasing the overall "hook" of the car and avoiding wheel hop... I could very well be wrong here, and I also am not sure what he's doing with the clutch as just dumping at ~6K RPM would put a ton of stress on the transmission.
My old Civic spoiled me with launches/burnouts. All I had to do was yank the handbrake and floor the throttle to get results lol.
I have however seen a fair number of people doing mild-mannered launches on stock differentials with decent results. Although it's still risky, I'd like to know what techniques to use to replicate results like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBs9vwa6Xgs (supposedly on a stock diff). I'm assuming that he's revving the car up high enough to break traction and allow for wheel spin, therefore decreasing the overall "hook" of the car and avoiding wheel hop... I could very well be wrong here, and I also am not sure what he's doing with the clutch as just dumping at ~6K RPM would put a ton of stress on the transmission.
My old Civic spoiled me with launches/burnouts. All I had to do was yank the handbrake and floor the throttle to get results lol.
I'm aware of launch control, but there has to be more to it than that. Do they just set the limiter really high to allow for that wheel spin and ease off the clutch instead of dumping?
At that level of power, on slicks, you're planning russian roulette with your diff. You might break it on the first go-around, or it might last for 10-15 runs. Really though, the diff is not built for that level of power and it's not going to last for any substantial amount of time when doing hard dragstrip launches.
To more directly address your question though, yes, easing into the clutch engagement and avoiding hard shocks to the drivetrain will help the diff last longer than it would otherwise.
To more directly address your question though, yes, easing into the clutch engagement and avoiding hard shocks to the drivetrain will help the diff last longer than it would otherwise.
At that level of power, on slicks, you're planning russian roulette with your diff. You might break it on the first go-around, or it might last for 10-15 runs. Really though, the diff is not built for that level of power and it's not going to last for any substantial amount of time when doing hard dragstrip launches.
To more directly address your question though, yes, easing into the clutch engagement and avoiding hard shocks to the drivetrain will help the diff last longer than it would otherwise.
To more directly address your question though, yes, easing into the clutch engagement and avoiding hard shocks to the drivetrain will help the diff last longer than it would otherwise.
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Similar to my old 911, designed as a racing car, 1st gets you moving and second really starts the pull.
Not to be judgemental but hole shots in these cars is expensive and stupid.
Why not autoX your Suburban?
I used to launch at autox's all the time when I was N/A. Just straight up clutch dump at 6k to spin the wheels then back off the throttle until it hooked. Looking back it probably hurt me more than helped as far as times. Now that I'm FI its difficult to launch without excessive spin, so I just slip the clutch and go. Unless you're drag racing from a dig its not that beneficial. And if you are drag racing you should be using the handbrake to preload the drivetrain before launch, as well as some sort of launch control.









