Actually the problem SHOULD be in the motor where the detect circuit is, not the regulator. Unless they come together as a package?

If I interpret what the Helm manual troubleshooting instructions tell me about the signal, the detect circuit is a mechanical make-and-break circuit that is attached to the motor shaft. Either the contact stops spinning because it mechanically loses attachment with the shaft (not likely, wouldn't go away from use), Or there is a contact failure due to oxidation of non-precious metal plating of contacts (very likely). Ever hear that crackling sound from an analog radio when you turn the volume control? Same thing. When the contacts sit, they develop high resistance oxides that block proper transmission of current. Running the window up and down wears these oxides off so you're back to good conductivity. For a day.

I just went out to test my auto-down.
Attempt, Number of auto-downs necessary to fully lower window:
1, 6
2, 5
3, 1
4, 5
5, 1
6, 1
7, 1
8, 1
9, 1
10, 1

A point of interest: The passenger window uses different circuitry for detect. The passenger window is driven through the convertible top control unit, not the power window control unit. There is no sensor or detect circuit for the passenger window!

Therefore it is probably a voltage test: When the passenger window makes it to the stop at the bottom, the voltage across the motor goes low. The top control unit reads this voltage change and shuts off the motor. (Alternatively, it could be on a timer and just keeps sending current to the motor for a set period of time. I doubt it though.)

Bad thing about voltage sensing is that as the car gets older the tracks get dirty (expecially if the window has a frame) and you would have the same stopping problem.

Good thing about a sensor is how cheap it is to implement. You don't have to run a separate set of wires for an end of travel sensor. And chances are you will never burn up the motor because the end of travel switch has failed. In Honda's case, it didn't pay them to go cheap.

They should have used a pulsing optic sensor. That's what would prove to be reliable over the long run in my opinion. (Look inside your mouse, that's what it uses to pulse info to your computer)

 

Destiny2002, factor this fact in: mine worked great when it's about 90 degrees outside, but it didn't when it was cooler. So somehow or another, when it's warm, it works.

I had mine replaced last week, and it's been wonderful since then. It works every time.

 

I'm not holding my breath, but it's still working. I'm amazed everytime I use it.

 

bump, anyone else have a solution to this problem? i replaced the window switch and it didnt do anything. I have an '02 with 44xxx miles.

 

I think you'll find somewhere else that this is not a switch problem but the electronic window module.

At any rate Honda should know by now.

(Mine started doing it at about 60,000 miles and then mysteriously corrected itself after a few months.

 

I called the dealership with the TSB and they said they would have to diagnose then submit it to honda and they *might* pay for it, if not I have to pay for it. Even if i dont want to get it fixed, I would have to pay a 98 dollar diagnostic fee. What a load of crap. I tried the window reset trick and it worked, for now at least.....

 

My guess is you probably have not used it enough. Your car has barely been driven in 5 years.

 

What "reset trick" is that?

 

I have a warranty and the dealer would not replace the regulator. They did, however, "reprogram" it. Yes, the reprogram works fine until you take the key out of the ignition and put it back. The auto-down fails again. I found out how to reprogram, not that it really helps at all!

1) With window in closed position, lower just a bit (.5" or so). The technical term used by the Service Guy at Frank Ancona Honda in Olathe, KS was "crack it."
2) Push "down" for two seconds.
3) Push "up" for two seconds.

You're done and your window is fixed! ...Until you take the key out of the ignition.

By the way, the Honda dealer service in the KC area is AWFUL!

 

It must be - mine was out of warranty, but because there's a TSB with a replacement part, I got it replaced for free. No problems since.

JonasM