i may look into this

 

I imagine that the substance will hold up to normal heat conditions, even those the hood experiences, but exhaust systems get signifigantly hotter and under the car the sound proofing material would have less than a couple inches in some places from the actual piping itself, so things would get really hot. Probably hot enough to melt it.

 

Hmm... Is a Gallon of this stuff enough to do the driver and passenger areas under the interior carpets AND the trunk?

 

Got back from LA last night which is a 5 hour (10 hour roundtrip) drive for me and was under the car this morning to shiny things up. The Quietcoat looks unblemished and unburned even in the close proximity of the exhuast tubing by the resonator. No worries from the heat front for those of you wanting the quick easy route of just coating the undercarriage.

 

I'm not worried about the QuietCar substance being heated. I just don't know how much clearance is needed around the exhaust elements. I didn't want to risk heat damage to the exhaust elements themselves just because the thick coats of QuietCar ended up blocking needed air flow or something.

 

If I were to do it again, and wanted to use only 1 gallon, I would do the following:

1. The areas under the interior carpets, but perhaps go for 4 or 5 coats.
2. Sound proof the rear tray. This is the plastic tray that sits under the convertible top when the top is down.

Once you remove the rear tray, you'll see that it's just a piece of plastic that has some felt glued on the bottom in Honda's attempt to block sound transmission there.

If you remove this tray and drive around with the top up, you'll find the car to be unbearably loud.

I think Zeniac put QuietCar on this plastic tray. What I did was to stick a layer of 1/4 inch thick neoprene foam directly over the felt. Honestly I don't know what's the best material to use on this plastic tray. Whatever you do, if you can sound proof this piece of plastic well, you will block a lot of sound from entering the cabin from the trunk.

 

Gooping mine right now... Thanks for the advice with emphasis on the rear tray- I wasn't considering applying it there until you mentioned it's importance.

Greg

 

I did both, I put quietcoat on the tray and got some commercial carpet underlay for a couple of bucks and added it too the existing felt. I also rolled some up and stuck in the open spece on the drivers side behind the fuel filler pipe. The total weight of this stuff was <1lb. I believe that that area also contributed to some of the resonance problems. As mentioned earlier I have been really happy with the results.

I would also believe that you will probably need at least 1 1/2 gallons to do the trunk, doors, wheel wheels and floorboards effectively. Snowball's suggestion is a good one if you really don't want to use more than a gallon.

 

How do you remove the rear tray...?

 

This was a pain in the butt.

I hope you have the Helms manual. The manual indicates very clearly the types and locations of the plastic tabs that hold the rear tray and the "rear tray rear trim" in place.

I did everything with the top fully up and closed. Once the tabs are loosened and the rear tray is free moving, I somehow managed to rotate the tray in place such that I was able to pull it through the space above the seats, and out through the main cabin area.

When it came time to put the thing back, however, I found it exceedingly difficult getting this tray back in through the cabin. I ended up putting it back through the trunk. This of course requires the the spare tire and certain pieces of the trunk trim be removed.

Once you go through this once, you'll never want to remove the rear tray again.