Is it possible that the gear grinding that lots of us have,is caused by this cylinder ???
I think it's possible cause if you depress the clutch rapidly if the cylinder take some time to transmit it's power,our clutch will be connected to the flywheel when we will change gear !!! See this !!!http://www.zr1.net/clutchmaster.html

 

Actually, Ultimate Lurker and I were talking about this during lunch a few days ago. We suspected that there could be a lag in the hydraulics. We haven't been able to check out this theory to see if it 's really the problem or not.

 

I had a look to see if the ajustment of the clutch pedal was ok ( see the ajustment nut at the base of the clutch pedal) and i re-ajust it to make it a little close to the pressure starting point.Maybe ill see if there is not air in the system too we never know !!!

 

I answered this is your last post.. Most people with the grind that is not self induced find it happens primarily when the box is hot. It has nothing to do with the clutch.. it is the gear being forced into engagement before the synchronizer has slowed it.. Honda addressed it (inadequately IMO) with transmission parts at great expense.. not with a clutch change.

 

Double post!? OK double reply

If the synchronizers are working properly, they will resist a gear change more if the clutch is binding like that.

I am positive the grind is the result of Honda trying to make the shifter action as light as possible. In doing that they made the transmission more susceptible to the grind problem. I believe the TSB takes care of the problem by installing syncro teeth that have a more aggressive ramp. This also causes a little bit stiffer shifting, magnified by the short throw. The steeper ramp angle of the teeth increases the terminal force needed to overcome the 'syncro engagement' and finish sliding into gear. A quick/ fast shift will overcome the spring pressure much like an impact wrench loosens a bolt. Even the slightest reduction in the speed of your shift should reduce the grind, just as woodwork said. BUT I think the threshold should be just a bit higher, I would take a stiffer shifter any day opposed to the grind.

I will be modifying my syncro sleeves by changing the ramp angles just to see the effects on shifting. Instead of a straight angle, I will be trying a curved ramp, so the initial action will be lighter but take just a bit more effort to engage. The gearbox can also be modified to have less of the 'rifle bolt' feel. The ramps 'backside' is responsible for keeping in gear along with another feature of the teeth. So in other words the ramp profile is what gives the transmission its personality.

PS I also think a hot gearbox aggravates the grind because the springs are a little more flexible at the higher temps? Ohh man now I gotta do another test *heating them and checking deflection*

 

( To cmnsnse )Oh man !!! I'm not sure i understand everything you have write but i think i understand most of it and i would prefer a stiffer shifter oposed to that grind problem too !!!
Keep us informed if you do the test Thanks

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cmnsnse
[B]Double post!? OK double reply
I am positive the grind is the result of Honda trying to make the shifter action as light as possible. In doing that they made the transmission more susceptible to the grind problem.

 

I've had my head buried in transmission parts for weeks. Having the mainshaft and countershaft apart, and back together, and so on I was sliding the syncro's to engage and noticed the harder you pressed on them the less effort it took to break past the springs into gear, if that makes sense.

Ill be running the car today because the rain cleared up, so Ill get the oil pressure curves by tomorrow night.
Im testing 3 different oils, just for pressure. Then Im pulling the tranny Again and measuring all the fluid capacities of the oil passageways to find out the reserve, and then if there is a problem with oil scavenging Ill have definitive proof of a design flaw.

You see, the oil pump intake is only halfway below the fill line, and then when pumping the level drops just to fill the system. Then on top of that with the spinning gears the oil must make its way down to the intake again. I think thats the whole problem - but Ill find out for sure.

Then when thats done, I plan on buying a few extra syncro sleeves and slightly modifying the teeth to see if I can't make the gearbox more the way I want it. What I will do is change the ramp angle, there are only 6 teeth per syncro to change. Or if I can find a way to make the springs stiffer or larger by .001" Ill do that first. Thats for 1-2 syncro, then Ill make reverse easier to slide into! The syncro teeth on the reverse gear are rather blunt, making it more difficult for the sleeve to slide in. On top of that if you grind it just a bit and round off the teeth, you may never find reverse without letting the clutch slip for a sec.

Pics in sec

 

again, please excuse my camera, I really need to get a better one. I cant even get the whole frame evenly focused

Here is the second gear syncro sleeve, you can see what I call the tooth ramp second gear side is facing up, there are only two teeth with ramps in this photo.


And this is the reverse syncro sleeve, notice how these angles are not very steep:


This one is after grinding reverse, you can see the points rounded off:


You might be able to see the ramps better on the reverse syncro sleeve:

 

Do you have a copy of Kyoji Kitajima's paper on developing the 6-speed (SAE of Japan)? It's dated Sept/Nov '99.