how do I get under my car?
ok, nobody flame me for this one- I have never changed the oil on any of my cars. Now that I have my s2000, I want to get more involved in the maintenace of my car. So here comes the stupid question: how the hell do I get under my s2000 to change the oil? I'm thinking a jack would be the answer, but the jack points are under the sides of the car, which would just lean it over to the other side, wouldnt it? Remember, Im new to car maintenance and i risked sounding like an idiot so my S2000 could benefit, so please try to hold back the laughs. Also, what materials do I need? Drain pan, oil, torque wrench, filter- anything else? Thanks
you should jack it up from the front. there should be something solid about a foot behind the bumper so you can put the jack under that. and please use jack stands. it'll be much easier anyway if you do. just jack it up from the front, put a jack stand behind each front tire, and go to work.
im sure some of the guys who actually own S2000's can elaborate a little bit here.
im sure some of the guys who actually own S2000's can elaborate a little bit here.
To do oil change:
Jack up car using the front right jacking point (floor jack better for this).
When high enough, place a jack stand under another solid point by the jacking point. I place the jack a bit to the rear part of the jack point and place the stand on what remains of the jacking point just ahead of the jack.
Lower the car onto the stand till it is supported but leave jack locked and in place.
Crawl under the front of the car and remove the drain plug. Have drain pan under oil flow.
Lift car up, remove jack stand, lower car to ground, let oil drain, remove oil filter from above (drain pan under filter). If you want to avoid dribbling oil down the side of the lower engine, use some aluminum foil just under the filter as you unscrew it. The oil will flow down the foil trough and keep your engine clean.
Go have lunch.
Come back, put new filter on (remember to oil filter's rubber ring).
Jack up car as before (use stand).
Replace drain plug (change crush ring if you're worried about it, torque properly).
Lower car to ground.
Fill with oil (about 5 qt or liters).
Make sure oil cap ring is in the cap and not stuck on the valve cover (it happens).
Check dip stick to make sure there's oil in there (it might read a bit high because filter has not filled yet).
Replace cap.
Start engine and run for 2-3 minutes (go take a look under the car to make sure nothing's leaking), shut down, let stand for a few more minutes, check oil level again and make sure it's near full (maybe 1 or 2 X's shy of full). You're now good to drive the car.
Check again first thing the next morning and top up if necessary.
Jack up car using the front right jacking point (floor jack better for this).
When high enough, place a jack stand under another solid point by the jacking point. I place the jack a bit to the rear part of the jack point and place the stand on what remains of the jacking point just ahead of the jack.
Lower the car onto the stand till it is supported but leave jack locked and in place.
Crawl under the front of the car and remove the drain plug. Have drain pan under oil flow.
Lift car up, remove jack stand, lower car to ground, let oil drain, remove oil filter from above (drain pan under filter). If you want to avoid dribbling oil down the side of the lower engine, use some aluminum foil just under the filter as you unscrew it. The oil will flow down the foil trough and keep your engine clean.
Go have lunch.
Come back, put new filter on (remember to oil filter's rubber ring).
Jack up car as before (use stand).
Replace drain plug (change crush ring if you're worried about it, torque properly).
Lower car to ground.
Fill with oil (about 5 qt or liters).
Make sure oil cap ring is in the cap and not stuck on the valve cover (it happens).
Check dip stick to make sure there's oil in there (it might read a bit high because filter has not filled yet).
Replace cap.
Start engine and run for 2-3 minutes (go take a look under the car to make sure nothing's leaking), shut down, let stand for a few more minutes, check oil level again and make sure it's near full (maybe 1 or 2 X's shy of full). You're now good to drive the car.
Check again first thing the next morning and top up if necessary.
Just another heads up.....if warm, the oil tends to shoot out a few inches toward the passenger side. The first time I changed my S's oil, I got a good shot right over my tub and onto my nice new garage floor.
i use a jack under the mid of the front of the car then put jack stands on both sides near the front - then jack up the back- there is another jack point at the mid of the rear. i think the jack points are in the owners manual or shop manual. i then put jack stands under the rear sides- also the places for the jack stands are in one of the manuals. be careful with the jack points - i recall a thread where someone tried to jack up the wrong place and damaged the car...
(for the materials you need, you also need a crush washer for the drain plug)-
my suggestion is to find someone in your area who has experience and can show you how to do this- once you see it its easy.
(for the materials you need, you also need a crush washer for the drain plug)-
my suggestion is to find someone in your area who has experience and can show you how to do this- once you see it its easy.
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Originally posted by wanabe
be careful with the jack points - i recall a thread where someone tried to jack up the wrong place and damaged the car...
(for the materials you need, you also need a crush washer for the drain plug)-
be careful with the jack points - i recall a thread where someone tried to jack up the wrong place and damaged the car...
(for the materials you need, you also need a crush washer for the drain plug)-
As for the crush ring on the plug bolt, I've been using the same ring on the oil pan, tranny oil bolts and rear diff oil bolts and never a leak. Just make sure you clean the ring and put it back in the exact same side facing casing (and bolt) and torque properly. If can't be sure if you've turned it around, use a new one. Yeah, they're cheap but my dealer only had 2 different kinds in stock. You need about 4 different ones to do the whole car. I bought a few spares. I just want to see how long you can use the same ring. So far, 3 oil changes and no leak.
I use the plastic ramps (from Autozone) they work great, just make sure you have someone guiding you up on them. They are good for changin oil but won't work for doing brakes, a floor jack and jack stands are needed at that point.
I just thought I would add my technique: two floor jacks, one on each side. Lift, then put a jack stand under the center jack point if safety conscious.
With two floor jacks, it's also easier to get the car completely up on jack stands (winter storage). Lift one corner enough to get the second jack to the center lift point. From there, use the center to provide clearance for stands. Repeat for back.
I wish someone had told me how to do that, so I didn't have to figure out the sequence.
chris.
With two floor jacks, it's also easier to get the car completely up on jack stands (winter storage). Lift one corner enough to get the second jack to the center lift point. From there, use the center to provide clearance for stands. Repeat for back.
I wish someone had told me how to do that, so I didn't have to figure out the sequence.
chris.








