I think its also 300 crank HP not wheel horsepower. So you're looking at ~250hp to the wheels ish...need to make another 50hp still which is a lot on this engine NA at least.

 

blow it if you want 300 at the wheels

 

blow it if you want 300 at the wheels

 

While drifting and autocrossing are almost polar opposites, that doesn't mean you can't do both. Both activities help develop skills that tend make one more competent behind the wheel.

 

 

Sure it's possible. Mine has it, NA too!

OH! wait...out of an S...

...yes, thats much harder.

A few things that you S guys don't often do may help you on your way there, but I think thats a high shot goal.

SOME THINGS I HAVE NOT HEARD OF YOU GUYS DOING:

Electric water pump.
Underdrive pullies (I hear of it, but not as often as I thought I would)
Short-belt bypassing the alternator

WOW! you say! ALTERNATOR!? I NEED THAT!

Well yes you do, but a 10-20 minute driving session will NOT necessitate it. Let me tell you a story. I was on my way to work in the old beat up crown-vic police car one day when it stalled at a light and I smelled burned rubber. Pulled over, got out, sure enough. Alternator had frozen up. Dad dropped a used (broken) one off with good bearings but a bad core. We bolted her on, ran the belt over her, left it un-plugged and I drove it to work and back (40 miles or so) listening to the radio but with no AC. It was fine. Mainly you need the voltage to fire the injectors, run the ECU, and your ignition system, and fuel pump along with a few other things. With a decent battery you can do this NO SWEAT! for 10-20 minutes. On a dyno on a mustang GT, I have seen as much as 15hp come from the alternator being shut-off.

switch to all synthetic fluids (I bet the S already runs that though, its worth 2-3whp).

Another thing I have not seen much of are cam(s) swaps in the S2K's I am really not sure, are the S's cam's optimal? I doubt it. Get some better rod bolts, a stroker kit, someone who is familiar with an S head, and some lighter rods/pistons and I think that you could hit your 300whp mark. Expensive? DAMN STRAIGHT!

However

These little tricks I outlined earlier will add up to around 10-15whp most likely. It is not a lot, but it is 10% of what a stock S makes. A lot of domestic guys and drag racers have done this stuff and it helps us out a lot when we "need that little something" to beat a friend we were neck/neck with yesterday. I don't see these done with S's often and though it was worth throwing the idea at you. They are cheap and easy and compared to the 10whp you get from a $1500 Mugen header...not so bad. It will give you an edge most others do not have and its pretty low-cost to boot!

The alternator by-pass is a pretty damn rare thing. I think it's a decent "secret weapon" for ya. If you go to the strip, may try the alternator AND/OR the power-steering pump. See which one gives better results (auto X I think you would want your PS).

 

These are the kinds of things we use to do to get more power out of our Fiats, but both the water pump and alternator on the S2000 are undersized and extremely effecient, so the gains will be much smaller. Rather than removing the alternator belt, we use to simply shut it down with a switch (electrically) to minimize the load. Honda already did a good job of optomizing effeciency so this engine doesn't respond to old-school tweaking as much as most other designs.

The OP wants ITB's, 300 HP, and to be street legal, and I dare say that doing all three at the same time is quite impossible.

My car is street legal (50 states legal) at around 285 WHP, and Vortech equipped cars (also 50 states legal) make closer to 300 WHP. Being street legal means sticking with the stock ECU, and currently there is no way to use ITB's or make 300 WHP NA while retaining the stock ECU.

If you gotta be street legal and you want meaningful power gains then FI (Comptech or Vortech) is the only choice.

 

Thanks for the replys but im still going to try my damndest to do so.

 

You're going to spend boat loads of money trying to do so. I'm not going to say "don't do it" but I will say that "you're probably not going to get ANYWHERE close." To really get 300 rwhp naturally aspirated, you're going to have to spend around 15,000 dollars, minimum. I'm not joking around here.

...or you could just spend 6k on a reliable turbo setup and be done with it.

 

You can do it. It will take money. Plenty of dirt-track racers in the 4-cyl class are pushing 300whp. It just takes $$$$