View Poll Results: Buddy Club N+ Coils (~$800) or APR GTC-200 GT Wing + Risers bundle 35% off new ($650.82)??
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll
I'M SO INDECISIVE! What should be my first mod?
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If this is for the track, buy a Helmet. Save money for maintenance and wear items for when you go to the track. Brake pads/rotors and tires wear out fast.
Don't buy any upgrades until you know what *you* need on the track.
If you *must* spend the money now, buy stock coil-overs.
Don't buy any upgrades until you know what *you* need on the track.
If you *must* spend the money now, buy stock coil-overs.
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Originally Posted by CKit,Dec 8 2009, 12:49 PM
Quick quiz:
What's going to happen to the handling characteristics of your car with 10-year old shocks if you put a large wing on the rear?
If you can't answer that question, don't get the wing.
What's going to happen to the handling characteristics of your car with 10-year old shocks if you put a large wing on the rear?
If you can't answer that question, don't get the wing.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,268
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From: San Diego
No choice on the poll for Ckit's suggestions...Unable to vote.
Scrap all your choices and take in Ckit's advice with great appreciation. He's right on the money. And visit the competition subforum.
For track use buddy club N+'s are a down grade from stock(Although great if you wanna dump your car and cruise all over town).
SD peeps are well known for getting the N+ coilovers to "park hard", cruise around town 5 miles below the speed limit and taking turns/corners @ 3mph so they don't rub.
Scrap all your choices and take in Ckit's advice with great appreciation. He's right on the money. And visit the competition subforum.
For track use buddy club N+'s are a down grade from stock(Although great if you wanna dump your car and cruise all over town).
SD peeps are well known for getting the N+ coilovers to "park hard", cruise around town 5 miles below the speed limit and taking turns/corners @ 3mph so they don't rub.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: 949 Whaat
[QUOTE=CKit,Dec 8 2009, 09:49 AM] I'm not sure that $700 coilovers are going to help much unless your current shocks are completely blown.
If you're going to the track (and if you don't have them already), I'd put the money towards:
Brake pads: ~$300
New set of rotors: $100
Brake fluid and speed bleeders: $50
Tires: $600-1000
AND... if you haven't done it, upgrade the oil banjo bolts from 2-->4 holes: ~$300-1000 depending on labor costs.
Especially if you don't want to run the wing on the street.
I think a general order of modification for "go-rather-than-show" guys:
Tier 1:
Basic safety
DOT 4 brake fluid
High temp racing brake pads with rotors
Basic grip
Sticky street tires (could burn through them in as little as 2-4 track days)
Basic personal safety
M-rated Snell Helmet
The common sentiment amongst track / racing guys is: don't mess with the handling unless you know what you're trying to alter.
Tier 2:
Engine: Oil banjo bolt upgrade
Tools: Good set of socket wrenches and a cordless impact wrench
Wheels: dedicated set of track wheels
Tires: Potential upgrade to R-comps
Body: Seam weld front A-arm brackets in a pre-AP2 to prevent R-comp forces from tearing them away from the body.
Brakes: Replace your brake lines prophylactically / stainless if your class allows
Suspension: Springs and coilovers (choice will be impacted by your tire stagger and driving style), may need front / rear swaybar choices to match the tires / spring rates.
Aero: Wing, but must be balanced with front aero splitter unless you want the handling change of just rear downforce.
Tier 3: Note that some people would put these in Tier 2, it's personal preference.
Safety: SCCA or similar rated roll bar installation (not a Cusco "style" bar)
Racing seat w/ harnesses
SA2005+ rated helmet
HANS restraint
Fire suit
So if you're really going for track as a goal, don't get the wing (or coilovers) or I/H/E yet.
If you're going to the track (and if you don't have them already), I'd put the money towards:
Brake pads: ~$300
New set of rotors: $100
Brake fluid and speed bleeders: $50
Tires: $600-1000
AND... if you haven't done it, upgrade the oil banjo bolts from 2-->4 holes: ~$300-1000 depending on labor costs.
Especially if you don't want to run the wing on the street.
I think a general order of modification for "go-rather-than-show" guys:
Tier 1:
Basic safety
DOT 4 brake fluid
High temp racing brake pads with rotors
Basic grip
Sticky street tires (could burn through them in as little as 2-4 track days)
Basic personal safety
M-rated Snell Helmet
The common sentiment amongst track / racing guys is: don't mess with the handling unless you know what you're trying to alter.
Tier 2:
Engine: Oil banjo bolt upgrade
Tools: Good set of socket wrenches and a cordless impact wrench
Wheels: dedicated set of track wheels
Tires: Potential upgrade to R-comps
Body: Seam weld front A-arm brackets in a pre-AP2 to prevent R-comp forces from tearing them away from the body.
Brakes: Replace your brake lines prophylactically / stainless if your class allows
Suspension: Springs and coilovers (choice will be impacted by your tire stagger and driving style), may need front / rear swaybar choices to match the tires / spring rates.
Aero: Wing, but must be balanced with front aero splitter unless you want the handling change of just rear downforce.
Tier 3: Note that some people would put these in Tier 2, it's personal preference.
Safety: SCCA or similar rated roll bar installation (not a Cusco "style" bar)
Racing seat w/ harnesses
SA2005+ rated helmet
HANS restraint
Fire suit
So if you're really going for track as a goal, don't get the wing (or coilovers) or I/H/E yet.
