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Low Pressure

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Old Oct 7, 2024 | 01:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by squish_
Gotcha. Thank you so much. I'm glad it's not the engine. But I will mention i had a stage 2 clutch in because I was planning on supercharging the S2K eventually but with life throwing curveballs, that future is way further than initially planned. So what part numbers do i need to look at? I will be doing the work myself also so any instruction on how to do that myself would be GREATLY appreciated.
If you feel you still want a good S2000 mechanic to look it over or even put the clutch in, take it to Concord - Streamline Performance. Jacob is amazing and in my opinion he is LHT Performance North division or Billman satellite office. He is knows these cars. Many in the area take theirs to him and he's great.
https://www.instagram.com/streamline...rmance_garage/
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 05:41 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by B serious
FLYWHEEL
Part Number: 22100-PCX-005

DISK, PRESSURE
Part Number: 22300-PCX-015

DISK, FRICTION
Part Number: 22200-PCX-055

BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
Part Number: 22810-PCY-003

GUIDE, RELEASE BEARING
Part Number: 21103-PCY-003

BEARING, CLUTCH PILOT
Part Number: 91006-PCX-008

08798-9002 - Urea grease



You could also go with an ACT pro-lite flywheel. Its close to what a stock AP1 flywheel is.

Or a ACT streetlite if you want a light flywheel


I recommend watching a few good Youtube tutorials to get an idea of how to do the clutch. But 100% for sure, follow the factory service manual (not an aftermarket manual)

I just saw this, thank you for the part numbers. So I was going to see if I could have my clutch warrantied by the company I bought it from and they said to bleed to the system to see if there are any air bubbles in it. Could air in the system cause the clutch to slip also? It makes me wonder if this could also be a potential issue because the clutch is fairly new. I bought it a year ago and had it installed around then, too, and it had been working fine till now. Should I spend the time to bleed it first and see if it resolves the issue before I go about buying $1600+ worth of parts?
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 05:59 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by squish_
I just saw this, thank you for the part numbers. So I was going to see if I could have my clutch warrantied by the company I bought it from and they said to bleed to the system to see if there are any air bubbles in it. Could air in the system cause the clutch to slip also? It makes me wonder if this could also be a potential issue because the clutch is fairly new. I bought it a year ago and had it installed around then, too, and it had been working fine till now. Should I spend the time to bleed it first and see if it resolves the issue before I go about buying $1600+ worth of parts?
Air in the system will not make the clutch slip. The clutch pressure on the disc is from spring pressure from the fingers in the clutch itself. The hydraulics in the system are to disengage the clutch when you depress the pedal, not to provide clamping pressure
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 06:56 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Air in the system will not make the clutch slip. The clutch pressure on the disc is from spring pressure from the fingers in the clutch itself. The hydraulics in the system are to disengage the clutch when you depress the pedal, not to provide clamping pressure
Okie dokies. Thank you I appreciate the info!
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 08:47 AM
  #45  
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To add, air would imoede fully disengaging clutch. Symptoms would be crunchy shifts, as syncros try and match speeds and mesh, while engine side is still being partially powered.

You also might experience effect were car creeps a little bit when you first put into first or reverse while still sitting. Clutch not fully released, so power can actually make it to wheels.

On the other hand, and overly adjusted clutch could cause slipping. If there is kess than 0 play, negative play, in clutch adjustment. Basically, its like pedal was never fully released. There is always hydraulic tension on pp springs. So full pp pressure, full clamping force, is never applied to disk.

This sho be easy to feel in pedal. There is supposed to be 6mm, .25", of play at pedal. Free travel before you feel a sudden build.up of pressure. This is pedal first starting to move pp springs. You can feel as hydraulic pressure first starts to move them.

Not feeling that play is a red flag.
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 04:01 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by squish_
I just saw this, thank you for the part numbers. So I was going to see if I could have my clutch warrantied by the company I bought it from and they said to bleed to the system to see if there are any air bubbles in it. Could air in the system cause the clutch to slip also? It makes me wonder if this could also be a potential issue because the clutch is fairly new. I bought it a year ago and had it installed around then, too, and it had been working fine till now. Should I spend the time to bleed it first and see if it resolves the issue before I go about buying $1600+ worth of parts?
Nope, its not air bubbles. A shop that suggests that may not know what they're doing, or they're just kicking the can down the road.

It may also not have anything to do with the install. Aftermarket clutches don't last on this car. Someone says "Stage 2" and it translates into "clutch failure in 0-20K miles" to me.

The factory clutch is best.

If you ever do go supercharged, you'll want to deal with the many headaches of that endeavor at the time. Swapping to a heavier duty pressure plate is just the tip of your problem-berg when/if you decide to supercharge the car. So no use in solving that problem right now.
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