Low Pressure
Gotcha. Thank you so much. I'm glad it's not the engine. But I will mention i had a stage 2 clutch in because I was planning on supercharging the S2K eventually but with life throwing curveballs, that future is way further than initially planned. So what part numbers do i need to look at? I will be doing the work myself also so any instruction on how to do that myself would be GREATLY appreciated.
https://www.instagram.com/streamline...rmance_garage/
FLYWHEEL
Part Number: 22100-PCX-005
DISK, PRESSURE
Part Number: 22300-PCX-015
DISK, FRICTION
Part Number: 22200-PCX-055
BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
Part Number: 22810-PCY-003
GUIDE, RELEASE BEARING
Part Number: 21103-PCY-003
BEARING, CLUTCH PILOT
Part Number: 91006-PCX-008
You could also go with an ACT pro-lite flywheel. Its close to what a stock AP1 flywheel is.
Or a ACT streetlite if you want a light flywheel
I recommend watching a few good Youtube tutorials to get an idea of how to do the clutch. But 100% for sure, follow the factory service manual (not an aftermarket manual)
Part Number: 22100-PCX-005
DISK, PRESSURE
Part Number: 22300-PCX-015
DISK, FRICTION
Part Number: 22200-PCX-055
BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
Part Number: 22810-PCY-003
GUIDE, RELEASE BEARING
Part Number: 21103-PCY-003
BEARING, CLUTCH PILOT
Part Number: 91006-PCX-008
08798-9002 - Urea grease
You could also go with an ACT pro-lite flywheel. Its close to what a stock AP1 flywheel is.
Or a ACT streetlite if you want a light flywheel
I recommend watching a few good Youtube tutorials to get an idea of how to do the clutch. But 100% for sure, follow the factory service manual (not an aftermarket manual)
I just saw this, thank you for the part numbers. So I was going to see if I could have my clutch warrantied by the company I bought it from and they said to bleed to the system to see if there are any air bubbles in it. Could air in the system cause the clutch to slip also? It makes me wonder if this could also be a potential issue because the clutch is fairly new. I bought it a year ago and had it installed around then, too, and it had been working fine till now. Should I spend the time to bleed it first and see if it resolves the issue before I go about buying $1600+ worth of parts?
I just saw this, thank you for the part numbers. So I was going to see if I could have my clutch warrantied by the company I bought it from and they said to bleed to the system to see if there are any air bubbles in it. Could air in the system cause the clutch to slip also? It makes me wonder if this could also be a potential issue because the clutch is fairly new. I bought it a year ago and had it installed around then, too, and it had been working fine till now. Should I spend the time to bleed it first and see if it resolves the issue before I go about buying $1600+ worth of parts?
Okie dokies. Thank you I appreciate the info!
To add, air would imoede fully disengaging clutch. Symptoms would be crunchy shifts, as syncros try and match speeds and mesh, while engine side is still being partially powered.
You also might experience effect were car creeps a little bit when you first put into first or reverse while still sitting. Clutch not fully released, so power can actually make it to wheels.
On the other hand, and overly adjusted clutch could cause slipping. If there is kess than 0 play, negative play, in clutch adjustment. Basically, its like pedal was never fully released. There is always hydraulic tension on pp springs. So full pp pressure, full clamping force, is never applied to disk.
This sho be easy to feel in pedal. There is supposed to be 6mm, .25", of play at pedal. Free travel before you feel a sudden build.up of pressure. This is pedal first starting to move pp springs. You can feel as hydraulic pressure first starts to move them.
Not feeling that play is a red flag.
You also might experience effect were car creeps a little bit when you first put into first or reverse while still sitting. Clutch not fully released, so power can actually make it to wheels.
On the other hand, and overly adjusted clutch could cause slipping. If there is kess than 0 play, negative play, in clutch adjustment. Basically, its like pedal was never fully released. There is always hydraulic tension on pp springs. So full pp pressure, full clamping force, is never applied to disk.
This sho be easy to feel in pedal. There is supposed to be 6mm, .25", of play at pedal. Free travel before you feel a sudden build.up of pressure. This is pedal first starting to move pp springs. You can feel as hydraulic pressure first starts to move them.
Not feeling that play is a red flag.
I just saw this, thank you for the part numbers. So I was going to see if I could have my clutch warrantied by the company I bought it from and they said to bleed to the system to see if there are any air bubbles in it. Could air in the system cause the clutch to slip also? It makes me wonder if this could also be a potential issue because the clutch is fairly new. I bought it a year ago and had it installed around then, too, and it had been working fine till now. Should I spend the time to bleed it first and see if it resolves the issue before I go about buying $1600+ worth of parts?
It may also not have anything to do with the install. Aftermarket clutches don't last on this car. Someone says "Stage 2" and it translates into "clutch failure in 0-20K miles" to me.
The factory clutch is best.
If you ever do go supercharged, you'll want to deal with the many headaches of that endeavor at the time. Swapping to a heavier duty pressure plate is just the tip of your problem-berg when/if you decide to supercharge the car. So no use in solving that problem right now.
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