The comparison to Armani is pretty apt. There's no doubt they do a lot of research and development and actually design and prove their products for their intended purpose. From this they've developed a name and a following. Then the marketers step in and paint oil filters gold or print 'Armani' across a plain T-shirt and quadruple the price.

It's pretty easy to tell those that buy Mugen and Armani for it's quality from those that just buy it for the name. Then again, if names are valuable to you you got your money's worth.

 

I think that about sums it up.

 

Can you get another product of equal or greater quality for a lower price? If not, then Mugen is "worth" it. Otherwise, you're a 14 year old girl who buys $100 designer jeans because the most popular girl in school wears them.

 

Mugen applied F1 technology to street cars ! IMO, yes. Mugen also developed a lot of parts for ppl to copy

 

Mugen applied F1 technology, gold paint and stickers to street cars ! IMO, yes.

 

huh

 

The reasons I went with Mugen over a few other brands...

1. Mugen cooling mods (t-stat, rad cap, fan switch) did a lot to compliment the Hondata Insulator I have. The temps dropped nicely without compromising anything. This was the cheapest Mugen items on my car.

2. Mugen header - wasn't too hot about not having a heatshield plus I didn't like slows2k's situation with Toda.

3. Mugen N1 ECU - the damn thing costed the most but made all the power mods on my car work much better.

 

To what? If your car was running too hot you have a cooling problem. But if it was running at the right temp and you run it cooler you're just creating wear.

The reason Mugen race team run cooling mods is that they run at 11/10ths all the time. The reason they sel them is that people will buy them.

 

AusS2000, unless your car is in an extremely cold environment, the car will run hot naturally. If you hook-up a scantool and monitor ECT's (engine coolant temps) like I have, it's very common to see it rise and fall like mad, often triggering the OEM ECU into going into protection mode, adding tons of fuel (to an already rich AF ratio) and pulling out a ton of ignition timing... all this without recording 1 knock. The 3 bars don't tell anything worthwhile, as there's a lot of temperature variance within the 3rd bar. I invite you to try and see what I'm talking about, get a OBD2 scantool and watch ECT's carefully, especially at idle. This is one of the reasons why the car bogs.

Where I'm at, the temps are neither too hot, nor too cold yet even my car driven daily falls victim to coolant temps that get too high in normal driving. There's also no additional wear from doing this as you may think, it's worse to switch over from a quality synthetic to a cheap conventional motor oil than switching to the Mugen cooling mods.

Edit: One of the reasons for the cooling mods is that it's a prerequisite for the N1 ECU.