Ok so, i got a custom sub box, amp, amp rack, wirinig, and an install from Car Toys in Irving, TX about 2 months ago. Since then my amp has needed to be replaced twice. The first time said to myself maybe it is a faulty amp. the second time the guy at Car Toys tells me the amp (that they said was the perfect amp for the system) is to small and it is going to keep going out because i am asking it to run to hard, so they want me to upgrade to the bigger amp for $150 more. I said no you do it for free cuz you told me the amp i have was good when i bought it. they say no. So we ended up putting the same kind of amp back in and using lower settings. Now it goes out a THIRD TIME!!!! even on the lower settings. I at this point want all my money back for everything tey put in and it all out of my car, They say the best they can do is refund the amp. WTF it is them who designed the system, they put in the wrong amp, how do i know everything else will last. i say let me get all my $$$ back so i can go somewhere else have it done right. anyone have any ideas?

Thanks, Bruce

 

Just curious what did they sell you? I used to work for Car Toys in Portland. I never had a problem with any system I sold for an S2000.(My store was the 3rd largest in the company of 60 so I saw a lot of cars!)

 

Id be really curious whats causing the amp to blow....usually there are fuses to stop that from happening.....ive blown a lot of inline fuses and even fuses on the amps, but to blow an amp is pretty tough IMO.

 

The parts list is as follows:
1. Custom sub box for the trunk (housing my JL 10W3V2) $375
2. JL Audio E1200 amp $250
3. Street Wires 4gauge wire kit $100
4. Install on all of it $125

The problem is with the Amp. It has a warranty, but they say they cant fix the problem. They checked all the wiring and it is ok, as well i have a fuse near the battery and it is ok. All three times its the amp. They say that the amp simply cant power the sub, and that i am asking to much of it.

The problem is that i got the system designed by them and we looked at amps and they said "the E1200 is the perfect amp to be powering the 10W3V2" now they say the onl;y thing they can do is let me upgrade to the next better amp (which they now say is the amp i should have) for $25 under its price. so i would be payin $100, NO THANKS.

I say i want all of it out and my money back.
They say only the amp is refundable because everything else is custom.

 

Make them give you a 250/1 they cost Car Toys around $220. (You never heard that from me) ... They may want you to pay a little to split the difference which wouldn't be that bad although I know you don't want to. If they wont cooperate at all ask to speak to the regional manager. They usually do what it takes to make the customer happy. Oh and don't judge every Car Toys by this experience. I never saw anything like this in my store! At the same time we would have sold you a full system. For example my typical s2k system would be an Eclipse/Alpine deck, dash control interface, JL 4 gauge wire kit, JL premium rca cables, JL 300/4, 10w3v2-d6 in custom box, and a pair of separates too your liking. Our customers always had a smile when leaving the parking lot!

 

I had a fun expirence at YOUR car toys (assuming the one on 102nd/halsey, not downtown). I went in there just looking around at alarms, stereos, and whatever, and when I go to leave the manager stops me and asks to check my pockets! I was like WTF?? When I did and pulled nothing out, he just said, "oh sorry". I thought to myself, what do they sell in here that is small enough that he thought I could put in my pocket??? lol...

 

When did that happen? I'm sure I know whoever stopped you even though I worked at Jantzen Beach. That's pretty weird I don't know what you would have fit in your pockets either. Maybe a faceplate but that would be pretty obvious in a pocket.

 

Well they are retarded and they dont know a thing to tell you the amp is "working too hard" to push your sub because there is no such thing. The amp gives whatever it can feed via the setting the user set it to. If your amp is rated 250x1@2ohm and you set your wiring to 2 ohms, that is how much power it is pushing regardless if your sub can take 500wrms. The problem is not with your amp, it is with the setting they are setting your amp to. Are they wiring it parellel or in series?

The sub doesnt "draw" power from the amp, it just takes whatever it is given. That is a common mistake for people to think that sub can draw power but that is totally false.

 

Forgot to add that those E series amps suck ass! Were you on a budget? Not sure why they would sell you one of those.