Just got all my stuff for my brake job.
4 speed bleeders
all new stock brake pads
Motul 600 brake fluid
Sears brake pad spreader.

Question
Is there a good url for brake change for our car.
Question
When bleeding the brakes, whats the best way, How do I get the fluid out of the calipers after I bleed the system.
How does it all go back together.
Need help soon, what to race sat and sunday
aquatic

 

You should get at least one more thing. A Helm Service Manual. Especially if you plan on doing much racing.

 

Do a search on brakes. Someone just posted a URL for instructions on doing a brake job on an NSX, which apparently is very similar.

 

I found the NSX url before I wrote this.
It helps.
But I still need help with bleeding the lines and calipers.
You people are great. Only a few minutes have passed and two replys.

I love this group

aquatic

 

Keith is looking for techniques to get all the fluid out of the calipers. Any tips or tricks? He is wisely replacing the stock fluid with DOT 4 for the race track.

Anybody have a tip to get all the fluid out of the caliper? I suggested unscrewing the bleeder valve and turning the caliper over so it all drains out.

I have never done an alcohol flush on a brake system. Any thoughts on that, as well?

Bueller?

 

This was posted by Pepe awhile back on how to do it:

1. If I have the time, I find that raising the car in four jack stands and taking off all four wheels make the job easier. But you could do it wheel per wheel.

2. Open the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it's top with fresh new fluid (Never use old fluid from open cans). Make sure the emergency hand brake is lowered and you have plenty of fluid.

3. You will start with the front, driver side wheel and work your way clockwise.

4. If you installed the speedbleeder: Install a clear line from the speedbleeder to an old can of brake fluid or container for dispensing fluid later. Tell the person helping you to start pumping the brake pedal as you open the bleed screw. With speedbleeder you can leave it open until clean with no bubble fluid comes out.

5. Close speedbleeder and check for leaks. Do not over tighten the bleed screw (hand tight).

6. Check the reservoir and top again with new fluid. Keep an eye on the fluid level if you pump the pedal a lot (more than 15 times).

7. Go to next wheel and repeat procedure.

If you don't have speedbleede, which I highly recommend, It's a little more complicated. The person inside the car will pump the brakes. While keeping the pedal press down you will open the stock bleed screw to let out the fluid/air. You should then close the bleed screw before the person inside the car lets the pedal go. The way I let the person inside know when to push and let go is by telling him DOWN, to press on the pedal, and UP for letting it go. Never let the pedal go up with the bleed screw open. This is the main reason for air in brake lines and it wont feel firm.

 

Ok, this really isn't brain surgery. I don't know what a speedbleeder is, but you don't need it. In fact, even though I think you should always have a service manual on hand for any car you own, this is one job you only need the service manual for the bleed order on and I'll tell you that part.

To PROPERLY bleed your brakes, do the following:

-You will want to jack up the car (rest it on jack STANDS, not just a jack!!!) and remove the rear wheels. You can leave the front wheels on.

1. Have someone sit in the car and pump the brakes until they get kinda firm.
2. Top off the resevoir.
3. Bleed order is as follows: front left, front right, back right, back left! Follow that order!
4. For each brake, place a section of neoprene hose (vacuum line, or whatever you want) on the nipple for the bleeder valve. Place the other end of the hose in an empty water bottle with the end submerged in brake fluid (it's ok if there's none in there when you start, but as you bleed the brakes, make sure to keep the hose dipped into this so that you can see if bubbles are coming out).
5. Open the valve with a box end wrench.
6. Have the person in the car slowly depress the brake pedal ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND ---===DO NOT LIFT OFF OF THE PEDAL AT ALL!!!!===---
7. Close the bleeder valve.
8. Have the person in the car lift off of the brake completely.
9. Periodically check to make sure there is still plenty of fluid in the resevoir.
10. Repeat steps 5-9 until you have repeated these steps a few times without any air at all coming out (once again, you will need to vacuum hose to be submerged in the brake fluid on your water bottle to be able to see the bubbles).
11. Repeat steps 4-10 for each wheel, bleeding the wheels in the order given above. Make sure to pressurize the system between doing each wheel (that means have the person in the car pump the brakes until they get stiff).
12. When you finish, pressurize the system and top off the fluid to the MAX line.
13. Put the rear wheels back on USING AN ACCURATE TORQUE WRENCH!!! Do not use some piece of sh!t you bought from Kragen. Use a good torque wrench set to 80 ft-lbs and tighten properly in a criss-cross pattern. I can't tell you how many people warp their rotors because they don't torque lug nuts evenly. If you don't have a torque wrench, don't take the wheels off. Just try to get in there and do it with the wheels on. The rears will be tough tho.
14. Test drive VERY CAREFULLY in case you f*cked up.

Warning: be careful with the brake fluid. It will EAT through paint - including the clear coat on your wheels. If you get it on anything, wash it off immediately and kick yourself in the ass for screwing up.

A trained monkey can do this job. If you can't pull this off properly, you need to be dragged out into the street and shot for your stupidity.

[This message has been edited by The Reverend (edited October 26, 2000).]

 

You know, I for one really appreciate how The Reverend gets to the point. No mincing with words here!

I've just come back from a track day using the stock brake fluid. The brakes worked flawlessly. Based on the information above, I may bleed my brakes just for the hell of it. It does sound easy.

 

Speedbleeder are just replacement bleeder valves with tiny built in one-way valves. To use them, follow The Reverend's instructions except you keep pumping the brakes without having to close the valve between pumps. If you lift up on the brake pedal, the one-way valve will keep air from being sucked back into the system. This makes it a little simpler and you don't really need an assistant. Speedbleeders cost something like $35 a set including shipping.

 

Reverend, YOU DA MAN! Gotta love your no-crap way of making it sound so simple, even I can figure it out. You should be a grade school teacher! You'd have a bunch of kids who could take an S2K apart and put it back together with blindfolds!