Oil changes
If I use synthetic oil, can I get away with doing oil changes every 2 years vs every year? - I have an 07 S2000 with 105,000 kms (65,000 miles)
I have 4 other cars and they all use synthetic - so it gets expensive
I drive the S2000 about 4000 kms (2500 miles) per year - only in the summer - from April till November
During winter time, it is parked outside in the snow/cold - but I take it for a 5 minute drive every 3-4 weeks when there is no ice on the ground.
Thoughts/comments?????
I have 4 other cars and they all use synthetic - so it gets expensive
I drive the S2000 about 4000 kms (2500 miles) per year - only in the summer - from April till November
During winter time, it is parked outside in the snow/cold - but I take it for a 5 minute drive every 3-4 weeks when there is no ice on the ground.
Thoughts/comments?????
You won't know for sure unless you get a used oil analysis. Your biggest enemy is condensation and short drives don't help. Honestly, I would keep on doing it once a year. There's not much saving if you do it once every 2 years, even if you have 4 cars.
That 5 minute drive every 3-4 weeks is a terrible idea. A better alternative would be to NOT start it through winter until you're ready to drive it. Put the battery on a trickle charger or tender. Oil prime and start/drive it when spring arrives.
I'll try to stay out of the oil change discussion. Good luck with that. You are about to get some internet SCIENTISTS up in here.
The only practical advise I can offer is...why not just use regular oil if synthetic is expensive? Change it every year.
I'll try to stay out of the oil change discussion. Good luck with that. You are about to get some internet SCIENTISTS up in here.
The only practical advise I can offer is...why not just use regular oil if synthetic is expensive? Change it every year.
That 5 minute drive every 3-4 weeks is a terrible idea. A better alternative would be to NOT start it through winter until you're ready to drive it. Put the battery on a trickle charger or tender. Oil prime and start/drive it when spring arrives.
I'll try to stay out of the oil change discussion. Good luck with that. You are about to get some internet SCIENTISTS up in here.
The only practical advise I can offer is...why not just use regular oil if synthetic is expensive? Change it every year.
I'll try to stay out of the oil change discussion. Good luck with that. You are about to get some internet SCIENTISTS up in here.
The only practical advise I can offer is...why not just use regular oil if synthetic is expensive? Change it every year.
using synthetic as I was told it gives better protection during the winter months when not driven much as well as better during aggressive summer driving
I use synthetic and change it out yearly when I put mine away for the winter. I typically put fewer than 5K miles on mine. With rebates, I can find a name brand synthetic for $15 for a 5qt bottle, so the cost is not an issue for me. I agree with the others that your 5 minute drives are doing more harm than good. I put mine away in November and I don't touch it until April.
Getting a used oil analysis is a good idea; it is the only way you will know the health of the oil.
Personally, I change my oil at least once a year, if for no other reason than to reduce the amount of moisture/acidity that may accumulate. I don't think extending to 24 months would be bad, but it would depend on the UOA and how you drive the car in winter months.
Better to let the car sit than to start it for only 5 minutes - take it for a 30 minute drive if you can. Cold start up after sitting for a longer period is when a lot of wear happens, so you'd want to minimize that. Plus, the oil needs to get hot and burn off moisture, and 5 minutes is not enough time for that to happen.
Personally, I change my oil at least once a year, if for no other reason than to reduce the amount of moisture/acidity that may accumulate. I don't think extending to 24 months would be bad, but it would depend on the UOA and how you drive the car in winter months.
Better to let the car sit than to start it for only 5 minutes - take it for a 30 minute drive if you can. Cold start up after sitting for a longer period is when a lot of wear happens, so you'd want to minimize that. Plus, the oil needs to get hot and burn off moisture, and 5 minutes is not enough time for that to happen.
You need to bring the OIL to operating temperature to burn off the moisture and impurities.
I have observed on cars with real oil pressure gauges that oil comes to operating temp at least 20 minutes AFTER the coolant reaches operating temp.
So as stated above unless you are going to bring EVERYTHING (engine, trans, rear) to operating temp, it is better to not drive at all until you can.
I have observed on cars with real oil pressure gauges that oil comes to operating temp at least 20 minutes AFTER the coolant reaches operating temp.
So as stated above unless you are going to bring EVERYTHING (engine, trans, rear) to operating temp, it is better to not drive at all until you can.
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The car does not require or need synthetic oil. Nor will it tangibly benefit from it unless you're driving WELL outside of the envelope of typical use.
There are good storage instructions on the owner's manual. They involve leaving the battery on a charger and then starting the car once you are ready to drive it.
Short, cold trips at any point are bad for the car/oil. Especially bad if you're doing dry starts every 3 weeks and then driving it for 5 mins in cold weather.
Thr only additon I would suggest is an oil priming when you're ready to go. Mine only needed about 10 seconds after sitting for 4-5 months.
There are good storage instructions on the owner's manual. They involve leaving the battery on a charger and then starting the car once you are ready to drive it.
Short, cold trips at any point are bad for the car/oil. Especially bad if you're doing dry starts every 3 weeks and then driving it for 5 mins in cold weather.
Thr only additon I would suggest is an oil priming when you're ready to go. Mine only needed about 10 seconds after sitting for 4-5 months.
You need to bring the OIL to operating temperature to burn off the moisture and impurities.
I have observed on cars with real oil pressure gauges that oil comes to operating temp at least 20 minutes AFTER the coolant reaches operating temp.
So as stated above unless you are going to bring EVERYTHING (engine, trans, rear) to operating temp, it is better to not drive at all until you can.
I have observed on cars with real oil pressure gauges that oil comes to operating temp at least 20 minutes AFTER the coolant reaches operating temp.
So as stated above unless you are going to bring EVERYTHING (engine, trans, rear) to operating temp, it is better to not drive at all until you can.
I will watch out for that next time
The car does not require or need synthetic oil. Nor will it tangibly benefit from it unless you're driving WELL outside of the envelope of typical use.
There are good storage instructions on the owner's manual. They involve leaving the battery on a charger and then starting the car once you are ready to drive it.
Short, cold trips at any point are bad for the car/oil. Especially bad if you're doing dry starts every 3 weeks and then driving it for 5 mins in cold weather.
Thr only additon I would suggest is an oil priming when you're ready to go. Mine only needed about 10 seconds after sitting for 4-5 months.
There are good storage instructions on the owner's manual. They involve leaving the battery on a charger and then starting the car once you are ready to drive it.
Short, cold trips at any point are bad for the car/oil. Especially bad if you're doing dry starts every 3 weeks and then driving it for 5 mins in cold weather.
Thr only additon I would suggest is an oil priming when you're ready to go. Mine only needed about 10 seconds after sitting for 4-5 months.








