This is model 002, compared with the "other brand", mine looks a lot thicker. I just weighed it, it's about 3 pounds heavier than the "other brand". When I was talking to the tech who made this, he thought the material I picked was perhaps a bit excessive: "after all, your car ain't no monster truck." So I'm wondering if going with a smaller sized steel tubing and smaller wall thickness (from roughly an eighth inch to roughly a sixteenth thick) would make more sense (and reduce the weight by about 3 pounds to just about the same as the "other brand"). Of course on the other hand I figure if the prices are gonna be the same (it's 99% labor), might as well go with a beefier setup. Where I work the stuff we send up are always over-engineered with at least triple the redundancy, etc., etc. (perhaps that is why the stuff is still working and flying outside of our solar system...)

So what do y'all think?

 

BTW, we figured that the "other brand" uses a much thinner material, something akin to 1/16" thick wall.

 

I would vote for the lightest unit possible that allows the oil to drain easily, allows the engine room to move in its mounts without hitting the x-brace and still provides noticeable rigidity.

 

i would think the oil would drain just as easy between the two, and the clearance between the two are exactly the same. i've had 001 on mine for a week now and my engine does not "hit" the x brace.

if you like, i can make it in titanium, but you'll have to shell out five times the cost i don't mind at all.

 

The Spoon one is not necessarily the ideal to follow as far as oil drainage goes to begin with. Ever seen the webbing on the NSX's suspension? How about that for a design idea for the x-brace?

 

Just a thought, and I dont even know if it matters but...

On the Integra, I've heard that something from Neuspeed (strut bar?) that gives you better chassis rigidity for better cornering is so strong that it'll tear your frame. It sounds like your X-Brace is some tough stuff...but it'd suck if it was too strong for the car, ya know? Hope this makes some sense.

 

Over engineered....I think that's a misnomer. If I was gonna make S/N 003 here's what I'd do:

Think of the flexture modes the X-Brace will see? Where does it need to be strong? I would use a 3/32" box frame similar to what your using now (compromise between the 1/8 and 1/16...be careful how your measuring thickness as this is extruded material....sample many places!). I would then drill the S** out of it to reduce weight. Spoon had the right idea on their "strengthening plates" but I would make three smaller holes on each triangular plate. I would then punch holes through the upper and lower walls of each rail. How many and how far apart is a judgement call. These two surfaces are just along for the ride and add weight..lots of weight! The rigidity of the device is going to come from the tube walls which are perpendicular to the frame (i.e. the sides)not those parallel to it (i.e. proposed punched) As for the box size of the 3/32 I would use the OD of the Gusset required (i.e. reverse engineered). Final step of course would be the Silver Powder Coat internal/external. I would be more then willing to pay for the prototype and test it on my car....as I know this is the best way to minimize weight and maximixe resistance to flexture.

 

On the Integra, I've heard that something from Neuspeed (strut bar?) that gives you better chassis rigidity for better cornering is so strong that it'll tear your frame. It sounds like your X-Brace is some tough stuff...but it'd suck if it was too strong for the car, ya know? Hope this makes some sense. [/B][/QUOTE]

The rear sway bar is what you're referring to. I've had my Type-R sway bar (about the same thickness as the Neuspeed) modified (with reinforced subframe) to fit my del sol with no problem, but I have seen it happen on a teg without reinforcements. Since the X-bar stays fairly stationary (compare to the sway bar), it shouldn

 

Thank you all. I will have to think about that.