Paint quality
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From: Midlothian
Paint quality
Today, I did some detailing on my new car - the complete Zaino deal. Detergent wash, then the Polish Lok, then Z2.
I got to inspect every inch of my SS beauty. I have to say, the quality of the paint is the best I have seen on a production car. None of my BMW's ever had as flawless a paint job, nor have my Acuras (The NSX is really in a class by itself with its 26-step paint process, and it is hardly a mass produced car). I could not find any thin spots, nor any orange peel. No imbedded dirt - my last TL-S had a fingerprint under the clearcoat!
The Zaino added another few inches of depth - my experience says that 5 more coats are needed to get it where I want it to be, then maybe a coat every month or so, with an occasional clay bar.
Assembly attention to detail was also very fine - I found no missing screws, nothing rattling around, even the under car looked good. Leather is very high quality.
The difference in assembly between this and my SVT is dramatic. The S2000 is easy to wash - it is so small for one thing!
Tochigi guys - my hat's off to ya!
I got to inspect every inch of my SS beauty. I have to say, the quality of the paint is the best I have seen on a production car. None of my BMW's ever had as flawless a paint job, nor have my Acuras (The NSX is really in a class by itself with its 26-step paint process, and it is hardly a mass produced car). I could not find any thin spots, nor any orange peel. No imbedded dirt - my last TL-S had a fingerprint under the clearcoat!
The Zaino added another few inches of depth - my experience says that 5 more coats are needed to get it where I want it to be, then maybe a coat every month or so, with an occasional clay bar.
Assembly attention to detail was also very fine - I found no missing screws, nothing rattling around, even the under car looked good. Leather is very high quality.
The difference in assembly between this and my SVT is dramatic. The S2000 is easy to wash - it is so small for one thing!
Tochigi guys - my hat's off to ya!
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From: Midlothian
Originally posted by CoralDoc
And the raving begins ...
And the raving begins ...
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From: Melbourne
IMO the plastic of the front bumper is a little too soft and stone chips always seem to look a little worse than they should.. Otherwise the paint looks great when it is all clean and detailed. That reminds me, I've got to give mine another going over soon. 
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From: Midlothian
I appreciate the advice. And I have heard thoughts about hard/soft paint on toher Forums, which left me scratching my head.
What is hard paint? I mean, think of the physics of it. An angular rock or large pebble moving at 30 mph encounters an object (your hood or bumper) moving at about the same speed. The force of that collision is distributed over a very small point, which means that the PSI at the point of impact is large. If it can (and usuallky does) chip something as hard as glass, why would paint be any different? Every car I have ever owned will pit or chip, including the "thick" paint on my Outback. Maybe we need "soft" paint to be mroe resilient?
I don't think I can bear the look of any bra, clear, opaque, Maidenform, whatever.
I recall showing one of the Fox terriers my Mom raised, and the standard for the breed said "a scar, honorably incurred, will not be held against the animal". I guess that terrirers, as working dogs, will get into fracases which could result in "an honorable scar". I guess a scar from a knife fight in a Tijuana bordello would not be acceptable.
Anyway, given the miles I drive and where (mostly back roads with little traffic), I will take my chances, and if that means I get "a nick, honorably incurred" I can live with it. And every ten years or so, reshoot the hood/fascia.
What is hard paint? I mean, think of the physics of it. An angular rock or large pebble moving at 30 mph encounters an object (your hood or bumper) moving at about the same speed. The force of that collision is distributed over a very small point, which means that the PSI at the point of impact is large. If it can (and usuallky does) chip something as hard as glass, why would paint be any different? Every car I have ever owned will pit or chip, including the "thick" paint on my Outback. Maybe we need "soft" paint to be mroe resilient?
I don't think I can bear the look of any bra, clear, opaque, Maidenform, whatever.
I recall showing one of the Fox terriers my Mom raised, and the standard for the breed said "a scar, honorably incurred, will not be held against the animal". I guess that terrirers, as working dogs, will get into fracases which could result in "an honorable scar". I guess a scar from a knife fight in a Tijuana bordello would not be acceptable.
Anyway, given the miles I drive and where (mostly back roads with little traffic), I will take my chances, and if that means I get "a nick, honorably incurred" I can live with it. And every ten years or so, reshoot the hood/fascia.
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From: Brookfield
every 10 years!!!! Ive had mine for a year, and im ready to paint the front bumper already!!!! Then again, im very anal having worked at lexus and jag/volvo dealerships for a total of 3 years, and my family owning 3 mercedes, 2 bmw's and my S in the past 2 years!
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From: Melbourne
As I was saying Road Rage I think it is more the strength of the plastic used.
I've seen BMWs (I think they use ABS plastic) that are 4 years old (and that have travelled a lot more kms/miles) with hardly any chips in the front bumper whereas the S2000s do tend to incur quite a few chips.
I personally put it down to the strength of the plastic, but am happy to be proven otherwise.
I've seen BMWs (I think they use ABS plastic) that are 4 years old (and that have travelled a lot more kms/miles) with hardly any chips in the front bumper whereas the S2000s do tend to incur quite a few chips.
I personally put it down to the strength of the plastic, but am happy to be proven otherwise.
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From: Temple City
My personal advice is to take Sal Zaino's advice...
...use only a 100% cotton towel made by Fieldcrest of Cannon that costs more than $10. The towels <$10 are not truly 100% cotton.
This will prevent minor swirls and scratches that will add up during the years. It works.
Microfiber, mitts, the absorber, etc...have been shown to scratch the paint, per Sal Zaino.
Use the cotton towels to wash, dry, and buff the zaino. I use a leaf blower to dry, and then dab at remaining water spots with the cotton towel. I do not have one swirl or scratch in the 3 months of owning my car, except for one scratch that resulted from someone keying my car.
Email Sal Zaino at sal@zainobros.com and he will respond the next morning. This is the best tip for exterior car care.
...use only a 100% cotton towel made by Fieldcrest of Cannon that costs more than $10. The towels <$10 are not truly 100% cotton.
This will prevent minor swirls and scratches that will add up during the years. It works.
Microfiber, mitts, the absorber, etc...have been shown to scratch the paint, per Sal Zaino.
Use the cotton towels to wash, dry, and buff the zaino. I use a leaf blower to dry, and then dab at remaining water spots with the cotton towel. I do not have one swirl or scratch in the 3 months of owning my car, except for one scratch that resulted from someone keying my car.
Email Sal Zaino at sal@zainobros.com and he will respond the next morning. This is the best tip for exterior car care.