Banannie, you were once kind enough to post the settings you were running and having good results with. Would you post them again?

I have an appointment to get my alignment done next week and really want to have the benefit of your trials if possible.

Thanks!

 

Hehehe... but I *love* autocrossing while looking out the side window. Unfortunately that's not the fast way around, so thanks for the tip!

 

sure, just got Marcus aligned on Tuesday once we swapped the JRZ's to him... I should be able to grab the specs and post them no later than this weekend. We'd used this last setup for Nationals on the old S2K, and got the chance to try it for two days on asphalt before we left. It was the best feeling setup for asphalt by far that we'd tried, but didn't cut it on the sticky concrete in Topeka. Still needed the bigger bar...

Annie
Y2K+1 S2K aka "Marcus"

 

Jason,

Your suggestion regarding the needle probe missed one point...I don't own it and I had to return it <G> The IR type is more available locally and a bit less expensive (if less effective).

Yes, the camber settings are the most I can get with my car. I have 0" toe in front, and .45" total toe in the rear.

Annie, I spent last month looking out the rear view mirror I doubt I need more rear toe in, just a bit more technique. I can echo something I read in another thread, there isn't enough rebound damping in the stock shocks, especially as they age. My car has 15,900 miles and it rides noticably softer than when new.

I also spin the car more now than when it was new! I notice that with the S-02s, I could recover the car better (and look like a hero) but with my currrent tires the car gets sideways and just keeps sliding!

 

I sure appreciate all the responses and dialog on this thread, it is very educational. Since first posting it I have done some research and talked to a few people (damn few real experts out there) trying to get a handle on this. (My previous experience has been with a Miata and Mustang and I am very sure I am no expert).

This is obviously a trial and adjustment process that will be tailored to individual drivers and cars. But there should be some good starting points and consistent concepts. I have a few questions that maybe someone will comment on..

I see why we would crank in a bunch of negative camber on the rears trying to keep them planted. But if you are trying to balance the car against oversteer at the limit, why would you use so much negative in the front too? It seems to be negating some of the effect of the negative camber in the rear. Maybe this would be different for a road course than auto-x?

And if you go with a heavy helping of negative camber in the front, wouldn

 

Okay, this is what we have the car at:

Front:

Left Right
-1.5 deg Camber -1.6 deg
4.4 deg Caster 4.2 deg
0.00" Toe 0.00"

Rear:

Left Right
-2.2 deg Camber -2.2 deg
0.12" Toe 0.12"

Keep in mind we have the JRZ shocks and are borrowing the Mugen front bar.

Hope this helps! This was by far the best setting we tried for asphalt. It was having inside wheel spin problems as well as oversteer problems on concrete. We'll be tweeking car settings for concrete this year in prep for Nationals so this could change...

Annie

 

Thanks Annie!

I will get my alignment and report.

Very disappointed that I ordered a Mugen front bar from King last week expecting it pretty quick and got a message today that it will be more than four weeks.

And shocks are on my list but not in my budget.. lots of us with that problem.

 

Just wanted to set the record straight.. King did come through for me.

Bob called and said on review they found a new bar slated for a project car that they will send me immediately so I don