For a while now, my rear window would bulge in the middle when lowering the top. This required dropping the top about 1/2 way, hopping out of the car, pushing the bulge down (so that the top goes down ok), getting back in, then lowering it the rest of the way.

Well, last night I followed this process. It was dark, and when I pushed down the middle, it made an unusual sound. This morning, when I got in the car, I saw what looked like scratches in my rear window (I'd raised the top after driving last night). Unfortunately, the scratches were cracks, that went all the way through. They're nearly vertical cracks, right in the right-most part of where the window bulges when being lowered. There are two of them (right next to each other), about 4" each.

My local Honda dealership quoted me $250 for the part, but said that I'd have to get it done at the local upolstery shop. The upolstery shop quoted me $800 in labor claiming that the entire top would have to be removed. As I'm a full-time graduate student with about $20k/year income (and student loans to boot), spending nearly $1100 to replace the rear window isn't exactly feasable right now. The only reason I still have the car is because it'd cost me more to sell it than keep it while at school (due to being rather upside-down on the loan right now).

I've noticed that the window seems to be a separate piece, with a zipper at the top. Does anyone know if removing the top is required to replace the rear window?

Unless it's a cheap fix (part + a little labor), I'm going to have to live with this hole in my window. My current plan is to try some transparent packing tape or equivelant to seal the window, so my interior doesn't get drenched the next rainstorm. I figure that any damage that could cause won't matter as the window is in need of replacement now anyway.

Anyone know a good online place to get a new rear window? Is there somewhere online where I can get instructions on replacing it? If it's a simple process, I might just do it myself. However, something tells me I won't be that lucky.

The car's 2.5 years old with 61k miles, thus Honda is unlikely to repair it under warranty (even though the case can be made that it's a product defect). The worst part of it is that I'm probably not going to be able to drop the top until it gets fixed, because the nature of the cracks and what caused them will mean that lowering the top will only put stress on the cracks (and probably cause them to grow). Oh, and the fact that it'll be a big hit on the selling price if I have to sell it before it gets fixed.

 

same thing happened to my plastic window...started out as small slits and now one is a big opening almost like a "U" shap tear because i still open an close my top.

the member "hardtopguy" can sell you the plastic window replacement for about $150, so you should PM him. i've heard people tell me that they had an upholestry shop do the install for $160 and it took them half a day. so i think you should shop around and get more price qoutes.

i have the helms manual and it doesn't show that the whole top needs to be removed, it might make it easier but it is not necessary.

 

As a temporary measure till you are more financially sound, you might consider one of two things:
1. Apply a static cling window tint:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=118889

or

2. Get some 3M Scotchcal flim (about 8 mil willdo) and install it similar to the window tint. This film is more permanent as it has adhesive, but it's clear and you'll replace it when you get the window fixed anyway. Make sure to do a "wet" install to get all the bubbles out.

 

From what I understand the replacement of the rear window is somewhat involved. Yes it zips out on the sides and part of it is foam backed double stick tape (someone correct me if I'm wrong). It's the lower edge that is the biggest problem. As I understand it, this part is pop riveted to the car. To get to this area, you'll need to disassemble much of the interior of the car. Seats come out, all the rear plastic interior panels come out, seat belt anchors come out, etc.

From here I'm not sure if the whole top needs to come out or if you can access the rivits. I'm sure someone with a Helms manual will chime in. If you've ever installed a stereo and run speaker and power wires from the battery to the trunk, IMO the level of difficulty is probably the same. This is not to say it won't take the better part of the day! If it was me, I'd get a Helms manual, a drill, a pop riviter, a buddy (for moral support) and set aside a saturday.

 

Thanks guys. I'll probably look into xviper's 3M suggestion for now, as that seems to be the simplest and cheapest solution to hold me over until I can afford a more expensive fix.

 

My plastic rear window recently cracked while lowering the top. It happened at night so I only heard a strange sound and thought, what the heck was that? The next morning while backing out of the driveway, I saw what appeared to be scratches but upon further inspection found it to be cracked all the way through.

Two things stick out in my mind about the cracking.
-The top had not been down for a while ~ 5 months.
-The wind deflector between the seats was down at the time. When the plastic window folded, I think it was pushing against the deflectors top edge (now in a horizontal position) and the pressure built up as the top came down. I don't know why the plastic didn't flex more and I usually always have the deflector in the up or vertical position.

I just started to explore my options which are:
1. Replace the top with a new glass window (don't know if it will fit on a year 2000)
2. Replace just the plastic window
3. Patch it with a plastic window repair kit (maybe a boating store sells this)

This is my first post in years so I will have to research the site some more. I see this original topic is old.