I am doing A/D/S speakers, Which Amp would you guys recomend.. A/D/S, PPI, or PG
Thanks

 

The brand doesn't really matter as long as it's reputable. Also make sure it fits where you want plan on instaling it, has adequate power for the speakers it's going to be powering, and has the appropriate inputs (speaker level or line level) for the head unit you'll be using with it. I have a PPI2120 and have been happy with it.

 

I used the A/D/S P240.2, a clean 40W 2-channel amp with my A/D/S component speakers Well matched, adequete power all but ear-splitting volume levels. They are discontinued, but still available at great prices ($179) from www.carmedia1.com.

Note: The stock head units do not allow remote switching of a power amp, and the A/D/S amps are known to be very clean but somewhat sensitive to noise. The result is that with the radio OFF and the amp ON (because it is switched by ignition, not the radio) I do get some minor ignition noise through my speakers...

 

Only my opinion... Only A/D/S Amps. I have 2 A/D/S amps in my SUV and 1 will be going into my S2K soon. I have never had a problem with them and I am very happy with the sound clarity and performance. I do want to add that I also have A/D/S speakers in my SUV and a set will be going into the S2K as well. So I may be biased. In my pass life I used to be a sound engineer for live bands and a DJ in night clubs, so the search for great sound quality in my car led to A/D/S. I am not saying the other companies are pieces of junk

 

I've been very happy with my Power Class Precision Power amp. It's real meaty and handles heat well.

Like so many things, amp selection is more of a matter of opinion. I agree with Strike, just pick a name brand, listen to a demo and think of how well it will fit in your stook with your speaker choices. Hopefully the amp you chose will fit in your budget.

 

I have to agree with Strike... any high end reputable amplifier. I have had experience with Phoenix Gold, Soundstream, Hifonics, and Alpine. The really high end models (high current competition amps) I ordered and had to wait for to be built ended up being the most tempermental (and required multiple repairs).

With my current install I decided to go with two Alpine MRV 1507 amps solely for the reliability Alpine offers (with relatively clean sound). The one drives my Dynaudio 3-way component set while the other drives a 10" Boston Pro Sub.

As long as the amp you chose has a little more power than you will need (for headroom) you will always be playing with low distortion and clean sound...

Just My .02...

 

I went with Kappa components and a Lanzar amp I had laying around (100w x 2). If interested you can see some pics here... http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?...3079&a=10562105

 

I researched speakers before installing my a/d/s/ speakers and found that they have a reputation for needing (and sounding very good with) a lot of clean power. I used a PG ZX400ti amp in the spare to drive the door speakers and am very happy with it.

 

I have A/D/S/ 346is components powered by Precision Power PC4400 which makes 50X4 watts. I have bi-amplified the speakers(the x-over supports this) sending 50 watts to each speakers (the tweeters can handle upto 75 watts). I am currently using stock headunit and used PAC converter even though the amp has line level input.
The power from the amp seems to be adequate, if not a little overkill. Sound coming from the tweeters are very clean without any harshness and the bass from the mid-range woofers are pretty powerful; enough to cause a door rattle at only moderate volume. Overall I am very happy with the combo. Plus, I could fit the crossovers in front of the fuel tank and the amp on top of the fuel tank, without having to move the spare tire. It's a little shame that I hid the pretty x-overs, but I wanted the install to be completely out of sight with the exception of the tweeters on the A-pillar.

 

I'm sure I'll be hung for this, but how can you guys consider an amp 'clean' if you hear ignition buzz when music isn't playing? The amp itself may be clean, but if the wiring to/from is crappy, you could have 0.00% distortion IN the amp and still get a crappy signal OUT.

Yeah yeah, ebery little bit counts, but come on...if I'm going to spend a chunk of money on an amp, I'm going to make sure I'm not getting buzz from the wiring...