My rear differential pinion bearing and seal broke on me and i cant find one anywhere online.. Any suggestions?

 

www.hardtopguy.com. He stocks them but I am sure they are not listed on his web site. So shoot him an e-mail. Sales@Hardtopguy.com

 

ok i wrote him waiting on a response... thanks a lot..

 

You may have a long wait. Past experience has shown he doesn't always get to his email or PMs. A phone call might be a better bet if he doesn't respond.
Also, you can have a look here:
http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?Mod...&ViewParts=true

You could also just go to your nearest dealer and buy them there.

 

yeah i was thinking nearest dealer or even oreillys or something like that... thanks for the suggestion.. ill check it out

 

May I ask which of the two pinion bearing failed?
Are you going to install the new bearing(s) yourself?
I would recommend using a new crush sleeve too.
Because you will most likely not reach the recommended pinion pre-torque with the old crush sleeve.
IOW, that old crush sleeve will "make" you put too much pre-load on your pinion bearings, and that may make them fail again soon.
It takes some special tools / measurements to set up the ring & pinion properly again.
It's not rocket science, but you NEED the tools.

Succes

 

I recall talking to the first guy that did the gears for Rick's. He said that a few of the cars that came to him for a gear swap indicated that the outer pinion bearing was the one that was usually damaged. The inner one, for sure would require taking the diff apart. He "might" get away with it if it's the outer one.

 

xviper Posted on Sep 23 2006, 02:27 AM
Hmmm.... I donno
When you take the companion flange off you can see the outer bearing.
If you are lucky you can take the inner bearing ring (with the rollers) out.
With the pinion still in it is not easy to get the outer bearing ring (that is pressed in the housing) out of there.
Maybe with a thin puller (with the beaks (?) facing outward)
If you manage to get the new bearing & crush sleeve & seal in... you still have to set the pre-load torque on the pinion bearings without the ring & Torsen installed. (according to the service manual)
That pre-load pinion torque is not a lot, being 0.88 - 1.37 Nm.
Pre-load pinion torque = torque needed to get the pinion turning.
Turning without turning the ring & Torsen.
Maybe it is possible to feel that in the backlash.
( if you manage that)

Anyway...
Get a new companion flange locking nut as well

Succes.

 

Any suggestions on ring and pinion to purchase.. upgraded or not?

 

Nah... it's not worth it.