Do the subframes need to be aligned to their alignment holes, or are they just an aid to getting the bolts to go in? My car is way moe twitchy than it used to be. I checked the alignment holes and they are not lined up, but everything seems tight.
Background if you want it:
I recently was given my father’s ‘06 when he gave up driving. He drove this thing every day and loved it, but it’s not handling correctly. I’ve driven it over the years, but of late it doesn’t seem right. He’s had it aligned, etc, but it’s very squirrelly for a road car and a little unpredictably twitchy. Like it doesn’t like to take a set on exit ramps etc. I almost feel like it pulls different directions under acceleration and deceleration like worn bushings, but they aren’t old.
Any suggestions?

 

They should align with the holes. Loosen all 6 bolts, use two fat screwdrivers manipulate to center subframe. Torque bolts, get alignment.

But your issue sounds like tires.

How old are they?

Are they summer tires? All season tires don't work well on this car.

But first, check air pressure, especially rear. Even a few psi difference left vs right can cause exact symptoms you describe.

 

I will check the pressures. It would be great if that’s what it is. The tires are summer tires in good shape.

As for the subframe, since that’s what I first thought, I need to check the front still , but the treats alignment holes align on one side but not the other.

 

If you haven't checked tire pressure, there is a big chance that's your issue.

Also check that one rear tire isn't worn much more than the other.

And check that someone hasn't put a front wheel onto the rear. The rear wheel hub centers are smaller to prevent this, but I've seen a few cases of someone just doing it anyway.

 

The deal here is our rear diffs are super sensitive to even small differences in rear tire diameters. Symptom is lift off gas steers one way, apply gas steers other way. Depends which side is smaller.

So even just a few psi difference or more wear in one tire is enough. Even brand new tires that happened to come from different factories have done it. Another reason to go to tire rack, as they swapped tires no questions asked. I can just imagine trying to explain it to some random local tire shop manager. They'll think you're nuts that your car handles wrong bc new tires have different factory codes.

 

The issue is nearly completely resolved and was tire pressures as you guys suggested. I had wrongly assumed the shop that fixed a puncture would have checked and set pressures correctly. Rears were at 20 and 40. Nothing about that is right. I feel like a fool now having put the car up and checked the subframe, etc. without first checking the easiest things.

 

Have you looked into Rigid Collars, lots of videos on YouTube. I installed them just to be sure everything is spot on.

 

I will likely do them. I have few maintenance things to do first. Like the heater control servo seems to be really weak. So I'm investigating how to replace it. This is a (fantastic) 3rd car that we didn't see coming, so trying to keep costs in check.

 

Was your car ever in an accident? Why did you think that the subframe could have been out of alignment?

Thanks!

 

OP thought his subframe shifted because of the strange handling.

His issue is resolved. It was air pressure deltas

But as reference to anyone curious,
Subframes can shift from hard cornering with grippy tires, or hitting potholes, curbs, etc.

Or from someone not installing it properly after a major service - like a clutch or similar.