Snipester

I just started working in the northwest and I wanted to know if it is worth it to buy an ap1?

Does anyone have a list of faults I should check before buying an ap1?
Also are there any known big issues about the engine? (is a hard driven car going to break down more often?)

As far as I can tell from the under the hood forum the biggest issue is the softtop ripping itself due to badly formed metal, a timing chain autotensioner problem causing rattling under the hood and idle stuttering due to the computer learning.

Since it is a honda, before 100k miles is there a need for any major maintenance?
Do all the sensors need replacement frequently? Perhaps someone with experience working and maintaining an ap1 could chime in?

The only reason why I want the ap1 is that they are most likely in the $15k range and I dont really want to break the bank. I was originally thinking of purchasing something in the $5k range and working on it (mr2/miata) but I thought it may be too much hassle.

I like driving n/a cars with high revs more so than turbo ( although i've never owned one ) since the power delivery seems more predictable and smooth vs a turbo'ed car.

G

I have an AP1 in Oregon. I think you can probably answer your own question on the hard driven car needing more maint. In many ways, it it like any other Honda, you take care of it, and it will take care of you.

I am not sure where in the NW you are but here is an AP2 for sale in the bend area for a good price.


https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=634247

luder_5555

don't get one with ANY MODS, good rule of thumb especially with import sport cars, is that if it has mods of any kind to increase performance there is a good chance the owner ran it hard.

Snipester

Thanks for the tips.

I'm actually in the seattle region. I would prefer to buy off someone who wants to trade in (cut out the dealer from gouging you) and we both get a deal.

I will look around for ap1 or ap2's for the next few months (not too rush) until I see the one I like. If anyone is in the seattle region looking to sell I'd like to check it out.

Does this price seem reasonable?: http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/ctd/877583669.html

common reactor

^^ That price isn't bad. Make sure the tires have tread, the soft top is in good condition and the air/heat works. Never forget

8_ball

Here is a very comprehensive checklist that a member put together. Good luck.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=590849

Saki GT

Look at the Introductions FAQ - good info there.

S14 to S2k

i hear they consume a lot of oil...i like the look of the ap1's but i think ap2's are better. y not get a 04?

devilchrist

ap1 is cheaper.. i believe have same steering ratio as CR, you can alwasy replace bumpers to make it look like sp2 if you wanted to.

there's the banjo bolt issue also. some where in the middle 02 production they changed the banjo bolt. or better off getting a 03 if you can. or stick with 04 or 05.

Nothing wrong about modded cars. If you know what to look for.

you can tell a side repaired side impact by checking both windows rollup and down, any unusual gaps between window and weather seal will tell you a bad repair.. if you can't tell then repair was prob reputable and no need to worry.

Panel allignments are always first key as well as vin sticker on the each panel

Mistman

So true, do you realize how much $$ you could avoid spending by getting one already modded??

You just need to make sure that the mods were installed correctly, nothing was 'modified' on the car to make the 'mod' work, original parts s/b available and the car is in good working order. Learn a bit about the car 1st, take a few test drives, you'll be able to determine whether or not a mod is a + or a - and use that to negotiate. Most people who do mod they're cars are aware that they have to 'sell' the modifications to a potential buyer (convince them that they haven't ruined the integrety of the car) so would probably be willing to negotiate a bit.

If I could have purchased a car w/the mods I have already done for about the same $$ as a stock one I wouldn't have hesitated one second. The $20k+ I've invested hasn't changed the value of my car $1 to a potential buyer, that's the breaks of spending $$ on a car you're not going to keep a loooooong time.