Tips on buying the S
07-23-2001, 11:03 PM
#1
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These are the things I gathered from talking to a friend who work at a dealer and through my S2000 leasing experience. Depending on the "philosophy" of the dealers, these may help you get a good deal. Please let me know how these work out for you and add if you have any others.
The following are not in any order:
1. Go at end of month because they need to meet their monthly quota
2. Go at a time when not many customers are around like during work hours or on rainy days. They are more willing to negotiate with you when business is slow. If you go when it's crowded, the salesmen won't treat you that well because they would want to jump to the next potential customer. Remember they want to close the deals as quick as they can so they can make commission.
3. If you're keen, look for a peon--someone who just started working there. The sales managers are more willing to close the rookie's deals without much hassle because he's new.
4. It's smart to shop at two competing dealers. Go to one to get the number. Then give the other dealer a lower number for them to beat. You can mention that the other dealer give you that deal. They won't call and check. Just stick to your number. Don't go too extreme or they'll jerk you around in a "professional" way.
5. Don't accept the first "draft"--price. Stick to your number and let them talk to their managers at least two times. You can give them an unreasonably low price and they'll bring it up at a price that you both can agree on.
Anticipate to walk out if they don't give you the number you want. If the dealer is aggressive enough, they'll call you the next day to lure you to come in and work on the deal again. That's when you can get more leverage with them on your number. Expect the salesmen to lie to you so you can come back. They won't promise anything, but they will "try to talk to their manager".
6. Go to a big dealer. They tend to give you a better price because they concentrate on selling quantities rather than profit.
7. If you can't lower the price, try to include accessories into the deal. Which means you agree to pay that price if they can throw in a front spoiler or something.
Good luck.
I got my lease at month end. I got a price at another dealer, lowered it, and asked my dealer to beat it. I walked away the first day. They called me the second day to close the deal. I told the manager that I wouldn't come in if he didn't give me my number. He agreed to my term.
Southern California
5/31/01
48 months lease
15,000 mi/year
$1000 drive off=(first month plus fees)
$485/month; tax included
MSRP=$32,740 (they used this to calculate the residual value at end of lease)
You may have a slightly different number at another state.
The following are not in any order:
1. Go at end of month because they need to meet their monthly quota
2. Go at a time when not many customers are around like during work hours or on rainy days. They are more willing to negotiate with you when business is slow. If you go when it's crowded, the salesmen won't treat you that well because they would want to jump to the next potential customer. Remember they want to close the deals as quick as they can so they can make commission.
3. If you're keen, look for a peon--someone who just started working there. The sales managers are more willing to close the rookie's deals without much hassle because he's new.
4. It's smart to shop at two competing dealers. Go to one to get the number. Then give the other dealer a lower number for them to beat. You can mention that the other dealer give you that deal. They won't call and check. Just stick to your number. Don't go too extreme or they'll jerk you around in a "professional" way.
5. Don't accept the first "draft"--price. Stick to your number and let them talk to their managers at least two times. You can give them an unreasonably low price and they'll bring it up at a price that you both can agree on.
Anticipate to walk out if they don't give you the number you want. If the dealer is aggressive enough, they'll call you the next day to lure you to come in and work on the deal again. That's when you can get more leverage with them on your number. Expect the salesmen to lie to you so you can come back. They won't promise anything, but they will "try to talk to their manager".
6. Go to a big dealer. They tend to give you a better price because they concentrate on selling quantities rather than profit.
7. If you can't lower the price, try to include accessories into the deal. Which means you agree to pay that price if they can throw in a front spoiler or something.
Good luck.
I got my lease at month end. I got a price at another dealer, lowered it, and asked my dealer to beat it. I walked away the first day. They called me the second day to close the deal. I told the manager that I wouldn't come in if he didn't give me my number. He agreed to my term.
Southern California
5/31/01
48 months lease
15,000 mi/year
$1000 drive off=(first month plus fees)
$485/month; tax included
MSRP=$32,740 (they used this to calculate the residual value at end of lease)
You may have a slightly different number at another state.
07-24-2001, 06:07 PM
#2
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Boulder
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My approach is quite different.
1. Find the dealership that has the car you want with minimum interaction with any sales personel.
2. Call the fleet manager or if nofleet manager, the general manager, tell him that he has the car you want, you are ready to buy it NOW, what you can get the car for elsewhere (or just quote your realistic target price) , and ask him if he'll meet it.
3. Give him your credit card for a deposit and arrange for pickup the next day...
Zero hassles, best price. NEVER negotiate with someone who does not have decision making authority.
1. Find the dealership that has the car you want with minimum interaction with any sales personel.
2. Call the fleet manager or if nofleet manager, the general manager, tell him that he has the car you want, you are ready to buy it NOW, what you can get the car for elsewhere (or just quote your realistic target price) , and ask him if he'll meet it.
3. Give him your credit card for a deposit and arrange for pickup the next day...
Zero hassles, best price. NEVER negotiate with someone who does not have decision making authority.
07-24-2001, 06:15 PM
#3
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hey PFB. another mile-high s2k...cool! do you auto-x? i'll be at coors this weekend, but likely will not race the st00k (break in 
). i'll be probably co-driving a friend's car.
). i'll be probably co-driving a friend's car.
07-24-2001, 06:15 PM
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Even though I haven't gotten my s-2000 yet,in dealing with several dealers so far I have to agree with pfb.I waste lots of time in these idiot salesmens offices waiting for them to "talk to the manager" or something.I don't think they have the authority to negotiate squat.If I proposed changing the price by 50.00 the guy would take off and run behind the curtain to talk to the "wizard".This bulls**t needs to be taken out of the loop!!
07-24-2001, 07:53 PM
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My s2k purchase thru priceline.com was the quickest and easiest car purchase I ever made. On a Friday, I submitted my criteria (included what I wanted in the way of add-ons, an extended warranty and the security system ONLY) for an s2k at MSRP. By Monday afternoon, they had a car lined up. I went and picked it up today--basically walked in, identified myself, handed the dealer the check, and left. And priceline's involvement only cost me $50--really worth it considering the time saved and hassles avoided.
Dealers in the immediate area are asking $3-5K over MSRP, although I understand some buyers have been able to negotiate better prices. However, I didn't have to do any negotiating and only had to go 125 miles to get my car.
cal
Dealers in the immediate area are asking $3-5K over MSRP, although I understand some buyers have been able to negotiate better prices. However, I didn't have to do any negotiating and only had to go 125 miles to get my car.
cal
