Hi all,

By way of background, I have recently 'graduated' to semi-slicks. I have a fair bit of track time under my sleeve now; and I have noticed that corner speeds/rpms are increasing (and that I am being slightly less sympathetic to the car/short shifting/shorter warm-ups etc).

I have a 100,000 mile AP1 with the valve retainer upgrade, coilovers, minor brake upgrade, RE71RS semi slicks, TODA TCT - No Aero.

Questions

1. Do I need any upgrades to 'bulletproof' the car for track use? (Facebook posts have mentioned rebuilding the head(valve guides etc) every 100 hours/replacing the oil pump... surely this is not needed? :O

2. Does the AP2 Banjo Bolt Upgrade need to be done on an S2K that sees track use?
My only reservation with this upgrade; is that they are not installed properly and therefore perform worse than the AP1 squirters. If it should be done - Should I replace the oil pump with a new one for peace of mind?

3. Baffled Sumps - Yes/No?
General consensus using the search function is that these are not required...

4. Bottom end Bearings - Is it worth pulling the bearings and replacing with new/upgraded? I had slightly elevated tin wear (bearing material) on one UOA - which came down on subsequent UOAs. Again, reservations are that there are risks associated with installation.

Current Maintenance Regime
I used to change engine oil and brake fluid before every track day (or two). Used oil analysis proved this to be overkill. I'm currently running Redline 5w40 and intend to push it to 4 track days + normal driving miles and then analyse.

I used to change gearbox/diff oil (Amsoil)/(Redline 75w140) once a year, but with less driving due to COVID/a better understanding of what 100% synthetic oils are capable of - I think I'll push it out to 18months -2 years

Interested in all thoughts!

 

No, you don't need to rebuild the head almost ever, as long as its 100% factory stuff. The AP2 retainers are a good idea.

A baffled sump isn't a bad idea.

You for sure need catch cans. Buy a quality setup.

Idk. That's really it.

Its not a BMW, so it doesn't need bearings every 5 mins. I doubt your car needs bearings at 100K unless its been starved before.

I would use a good 0W40 or 5W40 oil.

Simple works great. Keep the engine/drive train stock and it'll keep rippin.

 

1. Looking for Help on FACEBOOK? Really? This would be the last place that came to my mind to look for Qualified help. Just saying.
Replacing the Oil pump, valve guides: Not needed. AP2 valve retainers are a good idea, you have installed them allready.

2. Its a good thing on a engine that sees a lot of high RPM use. You cant install them wrong. (How tells this?) They are essential screws. I have done it, look for my thread about this topic. You need a really high quality 1/4 torque wrench.
The oil pump is absolutley no wear item, they dont ned replacement. You could think about replacing the drive chain and the spring and plunger of the pressure relieve valeve after... 200.000 Miles? Thats about it.

3. A baffled sump is cheap, easy to install and cant hurt, only can help, especially with the high G-forces semi slicks can create. The only thing that can go wrong is the use of to much silicone gasket when you install it. So, why not?

4. Not needed. Its not a BMW.

With Redline 5w-40 you have choosen one of the very best oils you can buy in the correct Viscosity. Use it with confidence.

Take care that the oil filter dont spin loose. Install it with a torque wrench and use a saftey wire for additional safety. I dont trust the OEM Filter....but that will open a can of worms here...and have fun.

 

I will add, in addition to catch can, modified valve cover baffle. On hard turns accumulated oil can get forced out pcv and you leave a blue cloud. Only worse with more lateral G's.

The mod includes adding larger, strategically placed drain oils to prevent accumulation.

Safest method involves baffle removal and reinstall, which itself is difficult and attention to detail required. There is a member here who will do the full mod for you. Mail cover, he ships it back.

Others have chronicled performing the mod with baffle intact.

The issue is metal bits getting stuck up there, then making their way into engine when cover reinstalled. Serious care needed.

 

The modification of the Valvecover just need basic metall working skills and a drill press. But the difference it is not noticabale on a street car. If i find the time, i wlll try my own version 2.0. My impression is, that the PCV system is more a "oil sucking System" on this cars. No wonder honda has changed it on later modells.

 

What about the upper front control arm? Reinforcement required?

 

Required? Maybe not. But a good idea.

Today's 200TW are crazy sticky. And *as long as you are never going to drive in salt*, its good to do it.

Just make sure you get a spray wand to get the paint fixed inside the frame once you're finished.

 

Thanks all for the tips.

I'm yet to experience the smokescreen problem - It could be because I'm not fast enough or track specific. I'm on OEM AP1 wheels with RE71RS'

Maybe this is not relevant to the smokescreen problem, but my AP1 does not burn oil between oil changes.

In relation to the chassis welding, I've been checking the area every time I jack up the car to rotate tyres or change fluids. So far, looks fine.

 

The smoke screen doesn't have anything to do with burning oil. If you turn right hard enough, you'll get oil shosh from your valve cover vents that will go into the intake tube.

You can mitigate some of it by keeping the oil level between the dots instead of all the way full.

As for the chassis welding....it will be fine until its not fine. However, I strongly recommend NOT doing this to a car that you plan to drive in salt.

 

I'll throw in Stainless Steel brake lines since no one has mentioned them, yet.