Trunk install
Ok, now I understand. Thanks.
The lid istelf is only attached with 4 bolts and shouldn't be too hard to remove. It's up to you if you want to remove the torsion bars, I don't think it's necessary.
There are also two bolts retaining the striker.
When you tighten them, the lid hinge and striker bolts factory spec for torque is 7.2 ft. lb.
The lid istelf is only attached with 4 bolts and shouldn't be too hard to remove. It's up to you if you want to remove the torsion bars, I don't think it's necessary.
There are also two bolts retaining the striker.
When you tighten them, the lid hinge and striker bolts factory spec for torque is 7.2 ft. lb.
Just one last ?...I am doing the install right now and am trying to put the key lock back in. On the original trunk, there were two bolt holes that held the lock in. On the CF trunk, there is no bracket with the holes in it. How does the key lock stay in place? Thanks in advance
I believe that you cannot retrofit the lock into the CF trunk and have it be functional.
You should remove one of the springs due to the lighter weight of the CF trunklid or else the lid will pop open extremely fast and possibly cause damage to the mounting area on the CF lid from all the shock.
You should remove one of the springs due to the lighter weight of the CF trunklid or else the lid will pop open extremely fast and possibly cause damage to the mounting area on the CF lid from all the shock.
I dont need it to be functional. If I remove the bar that connects the keyhole to the trunk release will I still be able to use the trunk pop on my keyless entry or does this do it? PLEASE HELP! Thanks
You should be able to, I think the trunk release actuator for the keyless remote is in the latch itself which you should not have had to remove.
You can test it with the lid open and see if the mechanism moves when you trigger it.
You can test it with the lid open and see if the mechanism moves when you trigger it.
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