Turbo AP2 Questuon
I imagine this car would be very fun to drive! 
According to the listing the car has been on Facebook for 11 weeks which tells me it's grossly overpriced or the condition is not as described. Questionable is the kind word. Or folks are rightly concerned about the reliability of a non-factory turbocharged 20-year old car with an engine that seldom survives a rebuild.
Since no one is buying it take your time. Got a spare $30,000? If it was the buy on the century it would have sold 11 weeks ago...
-- Chuck

According to the listing the car has been on Facebook for 11 weeks which tells me it's grossly overpriced or the condition is not as described. Questionable is the kind word. Or folks are rightly concerned about the reliability of a non-factory turbocharged 20-year old car with an engine that seldom survives a rebuild.
Since no one is buying it take your time. Got a spare $30,000? If it was the buy on the century it would have sold 11 weeks ago...

-- Chuck
Hi all, just reporting back. Saw the car yesterday, fairly clean set up. It’s running 20-22 psi of boost, when the car is up to temp, coolant temp reads 198, oil temp reads 212, AFR is around 14.8 - 15.4. Turbo has been on the car around 3 years and ~20,000 miles. Has a clutch upgrade, but still on stock trans, diff, and shaft. Idle well, consistent torque, but its street tuned by owner. Want to see if anyone has any final advice after these info. Thx
I’m sure the afr is lower on boost (it would melt right away if not). For reference, if you’re able to watch the afr when on boost it should be around 11.7 give or take a point. Side note: Gauges aren’t always the best measure for spot on accuracy, and watching a gauge when on boost can be challenging, but it’s an easy way to see if you’re in the ballpark or not with afr.
It’s also worth checking radiator overflow tank after the test drive to make sure it isn’t overfill or bubbling. That’s an easy way to check for a failing head gasket. Not trying to nit pick, it’s just an easy way to see if the head seal is solid.
Is the dealership good with you having a leak down test done? That would be the ultimate measure of the engine’s condition.
The clutch in the car is at the edge of what it can hold. It’ll likely be fine at 400 hp. At 500 it’d be close (I’m guessing at the torque level when at 500 hp). It would be good to drive the car to see if the clutch feel is ok for you. It’ll be pretty hard and grabby. The alternative is a twin disc. Not cheap, but if the grabbiness is too much for your liking the a twin disc would be the fix.
It’s also worth checking radiator overflow tank after the test drive to make sure it isn’t overfill or bubbling. That’s an easy way to check for a failing head gasket. Not trying to nit pick, it’s just an easy way to see if the head seal is solid.
Is the dealership good with you having a leak down test done? That would be the ultimate measure of the engine’s condition.
The clutch in the car is at the edge of what it can hold. It’ll likely be fine at 400 hp. At 500 it’d be close (I’m guessing at the torque level when at 500 hp). It would be good to drive the car to see if the clutch feel is ok for you. It’ll be pretty hard and grabby. The alternative is a twin disc. Not cheap, but if the grabbiness is too much for your liking the a twin disc would be the fix.
Last edited by turbojonn; Feb 9, 2025 at 08:13 AM.
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