Wankey handling
I got clipped on the side of the right rear tire by a large piece of (I think) a pallet or something that came flying out from under the car in front of me on the freeway yesterday. Unable to repair a sidewall puncture, the tire shop sold me one new SO2. Driving home I notice the car pulls slightly to the right on acceleration and to the left on deceleration. The inflation pressure is correct. Is this the result of one new tire on the rear along with one with 6000 miles?? It acts like the left has more traction than the right, could it perhaps be "stickier" worn down (like a racing slick) or is this perhaps a result of the new tire being "unscuffed"?
Extremely sensitive, more than I would expect but perhaps the product of the short wheelbase, wide tires and sophisticated suspension. Any ideas out there?
I was hoping to make 10,000 miles or so than switching to SO3's. I would rather not buy another rear tire at the moment ($300..ouch. I am gonna get my next ones at Tirerack!) but I will if this is what I am gonna have in the way of handling
Extremely sensitive, more than I would expect but perhaps the product of the short wheelbase, wide tires and sophisticated suspension. Any ideas out there?
I was hoping to make 10,000 miles or so than switching to SO3's. I would rather not buy another rear tire at the moment ($300..ouch. I am gonna get my next ones at Tirerack!) but I will if this is what I am gonna have in the way of handling
I suspect that it is the difference in the tires. When one of my tires got a little flat the way it pulled from one side to the other, like you were talking about, was really weird. I thought something was really wrong till I saw that a tire was going flat.
I think you may just have to fork over the cash unless someone here has a tire for sale that has around 6000 miles. Or I guess you could just live with it. I'd just figure out if it could do harm to your differential first though. I don't really suspect that it could do much but it would be good to know.
Sorry man that's a bummer.
I think you may just have to fork over the cash unless someone here has a tire for sale that has around 6000 miles. Or I guess you could just live with it. I'd just figure out if it could do harm to your differential first though. I don't really suspect that it could do much but it would be good to know.
Sorry man that's a bummer.
I've just put S02PP's on (the weather in the UK can be, well, rather wet).
They do seem to slide about more than the OEM's but I think this may just be down to the separating compound used to get them out of the moulds......
They do seem to slide about more than the OEM's but I think this may just be down to the separating compound used to get them out of the moulds......
Bob, I'll sell you a tire with 6000 miles on it!
How you get 10,000 miles is beyond me, all four of mine are slicks at 5000 miles. (hmmm... 5000mi @ 21mpg ave = 238 gallons @ $2.15/gal = $512... I spend more on tires than on gas!!!!
)
I don't get the pulling part though. It must be caused by the differential. The two scenarios, braking and accelerating are when the diff will resist slip the most, so that must be related.
I think it is possible that it could damage the diff. I know that a clutch based diff will quickly wear out in those circumstances, but I am not sure how a Torsen will be affected. According to Torsen it will have no effect, but I have heard others say that it can cause harm. In fact, I think the user manual states that you should not do this due to the diff.
Seriously, I think you are better off with a used tire from someone on the board, or another rear tire for the other side.
How you get 10,000 miles is beyond me, all four of mine are slicks at 5000 miles. (hmmm... 5000mi @ 21mpg ave = 238 gallons @ $2.15/gal = $512... I spend more on tires than on gas!!!!
)I don't get the pulling part though. It must be caused by the differential. The two scenarios, braking and accelerating are when the diff will resist slip the most, so that must be related.
I think it is possible that it could damage the diff. I know that a clutch based diff will quickly wear out in those circumstances, but I am not sure how a Torsen will be affected. According to Torsen it will have no effect, but I have heard others say that it can cause harm. In fact, I think the user manual states that you should not do this due to the diff.
Seriously, I think you are better off with a used tire from someone on the board, or another rear tire for the other side.
The tire is in fact a 225/50 Pole Position and it is OEM for Porsche not Honda as I was told at the Wheel Works, but "the only difference is in the noise rating". Looks like I got a problem. I suppose I could either get another of the same for the other side or make them take the one back and get 2 "right" ones. Getting someone else's 6000-mile tire is at best a guess as the tread wear I have had at 6000 is probably much different than the one I would get. But thanks for the offers.
When the original tire was first damaged I saw no affect and drove on, but as mentioned as it leaked pressure the driving became very odd in that it pulled violently right on acceleration and left on decel. Now it does somewhat the same but of course way less pronounced. I am definitely not interested in damaging the differential.
When the original tire was first damaged I saw no affect and drove on, but as mentioned as it leaked pressure the driving became very odd in that it pulled violently right on acceleration and left on decel. Now it does somewhat the same but of course way less pronounced. I am definitely not interested in damaging the differential.
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Late breaking news...just called Tirerack and two OEM S-02's are on the way from the Reno warehouse. Talked to the tire shop and they not only will give me full credit for the Porsche tire but will also install the correct ones when they arrive. So in a few thousand miles when all four of my S-02's are ready I guess I will be ready for a set of S-03's.
BTW the price on the tires from Tirerack is $189 ea. and I paid $284 at Wheel Works for the one yesterday. So even with shipping, mounting and balancing it is quite a deal. The guy at Tirerack (Noah) seemed quite knowledgeable as well. I had bought tires mailorder once before but this is the first time with Tirerack. Probably not the last...
Thanks again to the S2K Community for the advice....I shoulda known better.
BTW the price on the tires from Tirerack is $189 ea. and I paid $284 at Wheel Works for the one yesterday. So even with shipping, mounting and balancing it is quite a deal. The guy at Tirerack (Noah) seemed quite knowledgeable as well. I had bought tires mailorder once before but this is the first time with Tirerack. Probably not the last...
Thanks again to the S2K Community for the advice....I shoulda known better.
Bob, just to clarify this for you (as I want to make sure you have ordered the right tyres.)
SO2 Pole Position (PP) is NOT OEM for Porsche. The standard SO2 (non PP) is OEM for Porsche AND Honda.
However, there are two OEM SO2s - the one which is W rated is the one for the Honda (Porsche is Z rated). These tyres do not have different noise ratings they in fact have quite different tread patterns and carcass widths. When you receive them make sure your tyres are marked 225/50 R16 92W and you'll know you have the correct ones.
SO2 Pole Position (PP) is NOT OEM for Porsche. The standard SO2 (non PP) is OEM for Porsche AND Honda.
However, there are two OEM SO2s - the one which is W rated is the one for the Honda (Porsche is Z rated). These tyres do not have different noise ratings they in fact have quite different tread patterns and carcass widths. When you receive them make sure your tyres are marked 225/50 R16 92W and you'll know you have the correct ones.



