***Help me decide -- Sell it, keep it, fix it, drive it?
#1
***Help me decide -- Sell it, keep it, fix it, drive it?
Ok, this may get a little long, but I'm trying to figure out which way to go. Two months ago I bought a 2005 Silverstone with 167,000 miles. The car had been clipped in the front end on the drivers side. See pics below. I starting putting her back together by taking her to a frame shop and to get checked out. I then purchased new parts, ie..Honda OEM fenders, a OEM bumper cover, and so on. The car was driveable when I got it and it ran fine except for it had a little stumble in it at idle. There was a CEL on and I started checking into what was causing it. Here's what I have discovered.
First off, the CEL was for P1399 - random/multiple cylinder misfire detected, P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire detected, and P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire detected. I hit the forums and read that it might be spark plugs, so I bought new NGK's. I cleared the codes and drove for a couple days and the CEL came backon with the same codes. Next I read it could be coil packs. So I switched 1 and 2 coilpacks and 3 and 4 coilpacks thinking if it were the coilpacks, it would move the problem to cylinders 1 and 3. I cleared the codes, drove for a couple of days, and the same codes again. My next thought was to check compression. So I got out the gauge and here are the results:
cyl 1- 255
cyl 2- 185
cyl 3- 250
cyl 4- 190
OK, so now I'm narrowing in on the problem. Next I decided I would check the valves. So I got to it and I found that 2 of the valves on the exhaust side on cyl 2 and cyl 4 were not to spec. The gap was almost completely closed. I checked all the rest of the valves and they were correct. I adjusted the 2 exhaust valves that were out and put it all back together. I reset my CEL and now I have driven about 800 mile and no CEL. Also the stumble at idle is gone.
I redid my compression check and the numbers are the same. Sooo... I'm happy that this got rid of my CEL and the idle stumble, but I realize I still have proble with cyl. 2 and 4.
I spoke with a local Honda only mechanic today. He does not work for Honda. He has his own business. He seems to think, from his past experience, that the valve guides will need to be replaced. He said that he is seeing it more and more. He said that 150,000 miles seemed to be the number that he was starting to see this kind of problem. He suggested that all the valve guides be replaced with bronze guides. He qouted me $2000 to do it. I don't have a leak down tester so I'm thinking of having someone do a leakdown test for me next. I'm thinking of takling this valve job myself. I've rebuilt a couple of old school engines in the past, but a little intimidated by this engine. I can have the headwork done at a local shop and then put it back together myself. The mechanic I talked to also suggested a new timing chain and tensioner.
So now it's time for the questions:
(1) Anyone have any experince with these deteriorating valve guides? The car is running fine right now.
(2) Any guestimates on time frame? How fast will this get worse?
(3) What's it gonna hurt to drive the car like it is for now?
(4) Should I just sell the car like it is and forget about dealing with this.
First off, the CEL was for P1399 - random/multiple cylinder misfire detected, P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire detected, and P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire detected. I hit the forums and read that it might be spark plugs, so I bought new NGK's. I cleared the codes and drove for a couple days and the CEL came backon with the same codes. Next I read it could be coil packs. So I switched 1 and 2 coilpacks and 3 and 4 coilpacks thinking if it were the coilpacks, it would move the problem to cylinders 1 and 3. I cleared the codes, drove for a couple of days, and the same codes again. My next thought was to check compression. So I got out the gauge and here are the results:
cyl 1- 255
cyl 2- 185
cyl 3- 250
cyl 4- 190
OK, so now I'm narrowing in on the problem. Next I decided I would check the valves. So I got to it and I found that 2 of the valves on the exhaust side on cyl 2 and cyl 4 were not to spec. The gap was almost completely closed. I checked all the rest of the valves and they were correct. I adjusted the 2 exhaust valves that were out and put it all back together. I reset my CEL and now I have driven about 800 mile and no CEL. Also the stumble at idle is gone.
I redid my compression check and the numbers are the same. Sooo... I'm happy that this got rid of my CEL and the idle stumble, but I realize I still have proble with cyl. 2 and 4.
I spoke with a local Honda only mechanic today. He does not work for Honda. He has his own business. He seems to think, from his past experience, that the valve guides will need to be replaced. He said that he is seeing it more and more. He said that 150,000 miles seemed to be the number that he was starting to see this kind of problem. He suggested that all the valve guides be replaced with bronze guides. He qouted me $2000 to do it. I don't have a leak down tester so I'm thinking of having someone do a leakdown test for me next. I'm thinking of takling this valve job myself. I've rebuilt a couple of old school engines in the past, but a little intimidated by this engine. I can have the headwork done at a local shop and then put it back together myself. The mechanic I talked to also suggested a new timing chain and tensioner.
So now it's time for the questions:
(1) Anyone have any experince with these deteriorating valve guides? The car is running fine right now.
(2) Any guestimates on time frame? How fast will this get worse?
(3) What's it gonna hurt to drive the car like it is for now?
(4) Should I just sell the car like it is and forget about dealing with this.
#2
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An s2000 with a good motor will have good compression at 150k. There are plenty of s2000s with those miles. However, it is hard for us to say whether you should sell it, keep it, drive it, or fix it. It seems like you purchased the car already damaged and decided to put it together yourself. If you bought the car cheap enough for you not to lose money (if any) when you decide to flip it than I would sell that car right away. The next buyer, if he or she knows the history, might just make that s2000 into a track machine. However, if you actually like driving the car and it has significant value to you, than I would just source a new engine (3,000$) or so and install it yourself; after you get your original engine checked out by a honest mechanic. You can also seek help on the forums on what steps you should take to pinpoint the issue and make a decision from there. If you want to go a performance route you could look into getting it rebuilt by inline pro and use that down time to get the fenders painted. The rest of the s2000 looks like it is in decent shape. Sense in an s2000 fanatic I would love to see that car repaired and road ready; however, I understand if it seems like to much of a task.
I personally would sell that car and use that money to buy another s2000. The fenders bother me and I'm just to OCD to drive a car with an engine swap. Its a personal issue.
I personally would sell that car and use that money to buy another s2000. The fenders bother me and I'm just to OCD to drive a car with an engine swap. Its a personal issue.
#3
I'm guessing you didnt try a wet compression test, that would tell you if it's rings or valves. It sounds like you have burned exhaust valves more than valve guides.
#4
An s2000 with a good motor will have good compression at 150k. There are plenty of s2000s with those miles. However, it is hard for us to say whether you should sell it, keep it, drive it, or fix it. It seems like you purchased the car already damaged and decided to put it together yourself. If you bought the car cheap enough for you not to lose money (if any) when you decide to flip it than I would sell that car right away. The next buyer, if he or she knows the history, might just make that s2000 into a track machine. However, if you actually like driving the car and it has significant value to you, than I would just source a new engine (3,000$) or so and install it yourself; after you get your original engine checked out by a honest mechanic. You can also seek help on the forums on what steps you should take to pinpoint the issue and make a decision from there. If you want to go a performance route you could look into getting it rebuilt by inline pro and use that down time to get the fenders painted. The rest of the s2000 looks like it is in decent shape. Sense in an s2000 fanatic I would love to see that car repaired and road ready; however, I understand if it seems like to much of a task.
I personally would sell that car and use that money to buy another s2000. The fenders bother me and I'm just to OCD to drive a car with an engine swap. Its a personal issue.
I personally would sell that car and use that money to buy another s2000. The fenders bother me and I'm just to OCD to drive a car with an engine swap. Its a personal issue.
I did a fair amount of homework on this car before I bought it. It's a 1 owner that was used as a business vehicle for mainly interstate driving. I bought this as an insurance claim vehicle and I spoke to the previous owner. He praised the car up and down. He told me the car had been maintained very well with regular oil changes etc.. I asked if the car had used any oil or if he had had any problems with the car. He said absolutly none. He told me he wished he had bought the car back from the insurance company, but he didn't.
I realize all S2000's will not have this problem. But after doing a fair amount of reading in this and the other S2000 forum, and speaking with a Honda mechanic who knows these cars very well, I believe this is becoming a fairly common problem as the miles increase on these cars. As far as pulling out $3k or more for an engine, can't afford to do it. This is why I am going to try and do as much of the repair work myself as I can. I understand there are a lot of people that have to have their S2000 extremely clean, or extremely stock, or extremely whatever. I admire this and one day, maybe, I'll have my car be the "whatever". But for now I just want to be able to own, drive, and enjoy having an S2K, but trying to do it on the "cheap" side. My thoughts on selling the car are that I may end up in this exact same situation if I buy another high mileage car. I hear ya 'bout the unpainted fenders, lol. I'm trying to line up a paint guy, but I haven't yet. Thanks for your input.
#5
My CRX sure has spoiled me. 275k miles and been no trouble at all, lol.
#6
Yeah, I didn't think valve guides unless really bad, would necesarily cause low compression/poor performance as much as oil consumption. $2000 seems pretty high to me to just do the valve guides.
#7
Registered User
Where are you located? If you are near NY, Billman is your guy. If you are close to the south, Jordan is your man. If not close to any of those areas, I would post in your local subforum to see what suggestions you get in regards to good Honda techs that can help diagnose the issue.
Valve guides are not usually a problem - I don't recall hearing much about them as I have read posts in this forum, but it is a possibility. A leakdown test after your wet compression is also a good idea.
Valve guides are not usually a problem - I don't recall hearing much about them as I have read posts in this forum, but it is a possibility. A leakdown test after your wet compression is also a good idea.
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#8
Where are you located? If you are near NY, Billman is your guy. If you are close to the south, Jordan is your man. If not close to any of those areas, I would post in your local subforum to see what suggestions you get in regards to good Honda techs that can help diagnose the issue.
Valve guides are not usually a problem - I don't recall hearing much about them as I have read posts in this forum, but it is a possibility. A leakdown test after your wet compression is also a good idea.
Valve guides are not usually a problem - I don't recall hearing much about them as I have read posts in this forum, but it is a possibility. A leakdown test after your wet compression is also a good idea.