At my garage, we deal with Gulf and they dont offer 10w30, the rep recommand the 5w30 or 0w30 but as i read, honda first recommand the 5w30 in the ap1 and switch to 10w30 to reduce oil Consumption, with the 10w30 syntec, my motor dont burn oil, how it is with 0w30 or 5w30 on the ap2 and do you recommand it vs 10w30 syntec?

 

all it means is that at start up the oil is thinner so it gets around the motor faster for lubrication I have always used 0w or 5w and I don't burn any oil and runs great I run Castrol and its great oil honestly.

 

Ehhhhhh no. It means it's thinner everywhere except operating temp. And even then...that's a very loose statement. All oils act differently. And they are both a 30 grade within a tolerance. A certain brand's 5W30 might end up being more viscous than a 10W30 of the same or other brand.

Castrol 5W30 is on the very thin side of 30 grade. Their 0W30 Edge stays "thicker" by quite a bit. Infact...their 0W30 is more viscous at operating temp than their 10W30 also. Their 10W30 is more viscous at operating temp than their 5W30.


All oil brands and viscosities act differently at different temps. I don't know what Gulf's 5W30 acts like. You can look at a material data sheet if you're interested.

For daily driving...you should be fine with 5W30.

I wouldn't use Castrol 5W30 in the FxxC. I'd rather use their 0W30 or 0W40. Mainly because those two grades are actually synthetic.

Also...I have a MY00 and the cap says 10W30. Honda chose 10W30 because it is inherently more shear stable than 5W30. The F series seems like it shears oil apart a lot.

 

There's a whole bunch of fail and misinformation. ^ smh.

OP, 5w will not hurt a thing.

 

One good site for insight on oil:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/


FWIW... I've been using Extended Range Mobil 1 (5W-30), no problems. OEM oil filter.

 

Oil can be a prickly topic.

Here is some advice that most would not object to: (but surely many still will)

Use the OEM Honda filter

Use a good oil. Synthetic is generally better. Not all oil sold in US that says synthetic is really full synthetic.

Use an appropriate grade. Keep in mind this car revs to 9k, and has tight clearances. Its not a tractor. Don't use 20w-50.

Generally, the lower the first number, the better, especially in a real, full synthetic (that doesn't have to resort to additives to get there that will quickly break down).

The second number, you want what Honda spec'd, 30.

Change your oil at appropriate intervals. Consider time, as well as miles. An oil analysis will tell you for sure if your intervals are OK. Otherwise, every 3k-5k miles is a good range, depending on how you drive.

 

What about it was misinformation?

 

I run Amsoil 0w30 in my 03S.102k miles.Bought it new.OCI every 5k.Never had to add oil between changes.

\rlr
Carolina

 

From what I've heard, oil back 10-15 years ago (when Honda originally specified 10w30) oil has come a long way since then. The quality has gone up to where one oil can fit many more ranges safely. For example, a 5w30 now may have plenty of lubricity and viscosity that would challenge a previous 10w30 oil back from 10-15 years ago (meaning, it may have higher viscosity and lubricating properties at operating temp than an old 10w30, but now has more lubricity on a cold start to boot).

This is just something I've read. I'm not an expert.

 

I've spent a lot of time learning about oil on BITOG and I have to agree that your statements are basically true. It's probably a little more complicated than a novice can digest so it might leave some readers confused.

In layman's terms you're saying that the "30" in XW-30 defines an acceptable viscosity range for "hot" oil which is not related to the "cold" temp viscosity ranges defined by the number before the W. Some oils can be on the high end of one range and the low end of the other, so you can't assume a 0W-30 is thinner at 100c than a 10W-30 and in many cases it isn't.