(btw if this isn't the right place dave, feel free to move this).

So l8r today I will have finished the install of my brand new (from honda) short block. As most of you know, my car isn't street legal. I need to break in the new short block but I can't do any where near the original 700 miles as it would take months on the track.

I do play to put some time on the motor by running the car on jack stands in my driveway. And will try to do atleast one full track day of gentle driving.

I also plan to run some dino oil for this process.

Can anyone else suggest a better process for breaking in a motor for a race car?

Thanks
-Ry

 

Not sure if running the engine with no load (on jack stands) is a great idea, although at low to mid RPM should be OK. But also consider that the rest of the drivetrain needs break-in as well, especially the diff - hypoid gears are sliding gears, and the metal to metal bedding in involves both mechanical and thermal action. But Honda uses quality parts, and the gears are shot-peened for strength, which helps. You might consider changing out the diff fluid for LE-607, and perhaps the tranny with GMSFM. Both should provide excellent "hazardous duty" service.

Your situation is one of those "it is what it is" deals - perhaps others have some magic bullets to offer. Good luck, regardless - love to see the S2000 duking it out.

 

I'll leave it here for now. The only possible other place where you might get "experienced" advice migth be the "Competition" forum.
You have a unique situation where your car is a dedicated race car. I'm not so sure there is such a thing as "breaking in" a race car. I don't think professional racers break in their cars in any way that even remotely resembles what the rest of us do. On the other hand, races car engines get rebuild on a regular basis. You probably don't want to do this. It's a tough one but for sure, running it on jackstands with no load might not be a good thing.

 

Engine break in pfft.. I was running 16 psi on my motor after about 150-200 miles.. I just took the motor apart, and it was in perfect condition after 2 years.

Run it hard!!!

Chirs

 

All you have to do is change the oil and filter after your first track day.

 

My drivetrain & head are all very used. Its just a new short block.

 

and hmmm yeah thats what I'm leaning towards. Since it doesn't look like I can get it to the track before my next track day.

Why is running w/o load (or just the load of the wheels) bad?

 

The engine needs pressure to properly 'file' the piston rings to perfectly match the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls are honed which acts like a file. The honing wears off after about 20 minutes, so those first 20 minutes of the engine running are pretty critical. If you have more cylinder pressure during that period in time, it puts more pressure on the rings, which - in theory - get a better seal.

After 20 minutes or so however the honing is done. Any critical engine problems will show up during that period of time as well. If all is well, I would say you're good to go after that.....

Chris

 

I told you before. If you put on the RA-1s, stock exhaust and remove the wing I will do it for you late one of these evenings

 

dammit man will you PLEASE fix that sig!