Air Fuel Ratio help
what up, i had just installed an autometer Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, and its reading lean all the time, is this correct on a basically stock motor, all i have a in injen intake right now, i hooked it up the pin c16 (white wire) on the ecu, im pretty sure its installed correctly, please correct me if im wrong, i read most post and most people are saying that it should be runnig rich........ please help, thank you!
Umm, don't AFR meters need to be calibrated? The one I built has a little trimpot resistor for calibration. You need to put it on a dyno first, to get a base reading, align it, and from then on, it's correct.
TeamRed:
First I would double check the connection and verify that you do in fact have the correct wire. Those gauges by nature are very "jittery" for lack of a better term. All they do is read the output from the O2 sensor and basically give you a visual representation of the voltage that it reads. What I would do for a more accurate picture of what it's reading is take the car ouy and keep a steady 3000 rpm. At that point you should be able to see what youre narrow throttle ratio is. Then make a couple of WOT runs and watch it then. When you make a rapid change in throttlw position you're going to get bouncy readings and they are not indicators that you have a problem. Let us know how you make out.
Sunder:
The autometer digital AF gauge doesn't need to be calibrated because it simply reads the sensor output from the O2 sensor.
-BS2KT
First I would double check the connection and verify that you do in fact have the correct wire. Those gauges by nature are very "jittery" for lack of a better term. All they do is read the output from the O2 sensor and basically give you a visual representation of the voltage that it reads. What I would do for a more accurate picture of what it's reading is take the car ouy and keep a steady 3000 rpm. At that point you should be able to see what youre narrow throttle ratio is. Then make a couple of WOT runs and watch it then. When you make a rapid change in throttlw position you're going to get bouncy readings and they are not indicators that you have a problem. Let us know how you make out.
Sunder:
The autometer digital AF gauge doesn't need to be calibrated because it simply reads the sensor output from the O2 sensor.
-BS2KT
Originally posted by TeamRedlineS2k
mine looks red all the time, no matter what im doing.......... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, does anyone know if c16 is the right pin to tap? thanx for all your help!
mine looks red all the time, no matter what im doing.......... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, does anyone know if c16 is the right pin to tap? thanx for all your help!
-YS
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Try C-15. Here is the wiring diagram from AEM
http://www.aempower.com/bbs/download.php?id=13
From what I understand the secondary O2 sensor is the one before the catalitic converter. The readings after the cat will be more lean than what it actually is. This could be your problem...
Really you should just get an AEM EMS, wideband w/ display and get rid of that catalitic converter. Get a turbo too. Oops...
j/k
Chris
http://www.aempower.com/bbs/download.php?id=13
From what I understand the secondary O2 sensor is the one before the catalitic converter. The readings after the cat will be more lean than what it actually is. This could be your problem...
Really you should just get an AEM EMS, wideband w/ display and get rid of that catalitic converter. Get a turbo too. Oops...
j/kChris
Yep, primary is the one before the cat with the white heat guard on the wires, the secondary is the one in the cat with the blue heat guard on the wires. Trust me... it was an expensive lesson to learn!


