Alignment adjustment limited
Preface: I wrecked my car back in 2003 (with significant suspension damage), and when the shop repaired it, they said they aligned it to "manufacturer's recommendations". Additionally, since then, I've noticed that my left rear suspension "squeaks" or "wheezes" occasionally when I get out of the car. Today was the first time I've taken it in to have an alignment done since then.
Today, when I took it in to have it aligned, I requested the following specs:
[CODE]
Front:
Caster:
Today, when I took it in to have it aligned, I requested the following specs:
[CODE]
Front:
Caster:
I'm curious to find out to....I had a similar situation with mine(no wreck though). I requested -2.5 rear and while it was easy to get -2.5 rear on the right, he could only get -2.2 on the left, so I'm running -2.2 for both now. I'm at stock height, so when/if I drop I'm sure I could get the extra difference. Curious at why one side would be significantly different from the other.
mxt_77, I think it is obvious that your left suspension WAS damaged in the accident, but the insurance company did not replace it since it COULD be set back to OEM specs without replacement. Honestly, that is all that they are required to do. Were you sitting in the car during the alignment?
CrazyPhuD, I wouldn't call .3 degrees significant when you are able to go WAY beyond the stock specs. The build tolerances of the frame and suspension components could easily cause a .3 degree variance. Honestly, the acuracy of the alignment machine could be playing some role in it, or possibly uneven tire wear or pressures. The other thing to consider is that the camber on the left will increase by a couple tenths of a degree when you are sitting in the driver seat (measured by davidb). If you weigh over 200 lbs, that .3 degree difference might be just about perfect!
CrazyPhuD, I wouldn't call .3 degrees significant when you are able to go WAY beyond the stock specs. The build tolerances of the frame and suspension components could easily cause a .3 degree variance. Honestly, the acuracy of the alignment machine could be playing some role in it, or possibly uneven tire wear or pressures. The other thing to consider is that the camber on the left will increase by a couple tenths of a degree when you are sitting in the driver seat (measured by davidb). If you weigh over 200 lbs, that .3 degree difference might be just about perfect!
gernby:
Thanks for the input. Any thoughts on which component I should look at replacing to get my full range of motion back?
I was not sitting in the car when the alignment was done, so I had them put the camber at -1.0 (the max they could get) on the left, and -1.2 on the right.
Thanks for the input. Any thoughts on which component I should look at replacing to get my full range of motion back?
I was not sitting in the car when the alignment was done, so I had them put the camber at -1.0 (the max they could get) on the left, and -1.2 on the right.
Hmmm... Check the part of the frame between the lower and upper a-arm mounts. If you're having issues getting enough camber, that suggests the lower mounts are a bit further inboard than the uppers.
ps - go CC!
ps - go CC!
Originally Posted by CrazyPhuD,Sep 15 2004, 12:22 AM
Hmmmm....now that you mention the weight though maybe I should have them set the camber 2.2L 2.5R....cheapest weight reduction mod for me is a lighter driver

The skill of the technician in operating the double-wishbone Honda setup could also be a factor. I had one shop align my car (a race shop even) and they kept messing up, leaving me with wandering front toe settings. I broke down and took it to the $tealer and they did a stellar job!
///Robin
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I have no idea which component would be the most likely candidate to cause the problem. I would get out your straight edge, and start comparing the left pieces to the right. Once you identify some segment of a particular component that is straight on the right and slightly curved on the left, call the insurance company. Maybe you can convince them to replace it.
BTW, have you verified that your wheelbase is equal between the left and right? I had a really bad accident in my '91 Integra that caused my left wheelbase to be about 1/2" shorter than the right. Since the Integras didn't have adjustable caster or camber, I never did get that car to handle quite right.
BTW, have you verified that your wheelbase is equal between the left and right? I had a really bad accident in my '91 Integra that caused my left wheelbase to be about 1/2" shorter than the right. Since the Integras didn't have adjustable caster or camber, I never did get that car to handle quite right.
Originally Posted by TrueDrezzer,Sep 14 2004, 05:46 PM
The skill of the technician in operating the double-wishbone Honda setup could also be a factor. I had one shop align my car (a race shop even) and they kept messing up, leaving me with wandering front toe settings. I broke down and took it to the $tealer and they did a stellar job!
Originally Posted by Elistan,Sep 14 2004, 07:46 PM
ps - go CC! 


Just for the record, though.. even though I couldn't get as much camber as I wanted, it should still be better than it was at the last auto-x, since I got rid of the toe-out. Plus, I've shed 50lbs and gained ~10hp.

I'll check the parts that you mentioned as soon as I have a chance, but it probably won't be before the autocross (not that I could get new parts in and aligned before then, anyway).



