It's time for an alignment and my question mostly what camber a guy should use for street/track use, with an occasional pass or 3 down the drag strip? I don't have the print out from the last alignment I had done, which was way back in 2018, but the insides of all 4 tires wore way more than the outer shoulders. It is driven mostly on the street with a couple track days per year. When I would look at the tire temps across the tread right after coming off the track, the outer shoulders were much cooler than the inner parts of the tires (I don't remember the temps, its been a couple years) so I wonder if the camber was a bit too far negative for me. Maybe it doesn't even matter. Suggestions? Pic is the old Hankook RS4 tires that were installed in 2018 compared to the new Falken RT660+ I just put on the car.

 

More info on the rest of your setup will help with recommendations

 

AP1 or AP2? OEM suspension?
Darcy

 

You're right, I should add more info than what my signature says.

2005 S2000 on Enkei PF01 17x8 front and 17x9 rear wheels
Fallen RT660+ 235/40/17 front, 255/40/17 rear tires
Rolled front and rear fenders, rear bumper tabs modified, passenger front fender bacon mod thanks to turning into a driveway incorrectly.
Sakebomb Garage FP Sport Ohlins DFV coilovers set to their suggested ride height (350mm if I remember correctly)
All OEM suspension bushings were replaced with sphericals
Hardrace front and rear roll center adjusters, front tie rod ends, adjustable rear toe arms
Stock sway bars
I think that's everything.

 

Oh ok.

Bumpsteer:
I'd set the bumpsteer as close to 0 as possible. IIRC, I ended up with around 0.06 toe delta per side over the entire range of travel.

For the rear, I ran the middle stud sizing and fully inward arm position on my bumpsteer kit.

I don't have any good recommendations to start with on your front setup, as far as bumpsteer adjustment goes.

Alignment:
Run like
Like 2 or 2.5 degrees of camber.

Front toe to either 0 or 0.06" positive (total)

Rear toe anywhere in the stock AP2 range is fine, but run it as straight as the spec will allow.

Maybe 6 or so degrees of positive caster.

Unrelated...you have a weird front tire size which is significantly shorter than the rear.

 

Chasing lap time seconds can take a lot of effort. There are no doubt experts here who can recommend an alignment that can at least minimize this.

Plus occasionally rotating the tires will spread tire wear even if the alignment can't be perfect. Both the Falken RT660 and Hankook RS4 tires are directional and you're running a staggered setup so "rotation" can't be a simple front-to-rear change and will require dismounting and remounting them moving the old inside edge to the outside and putting them on the same axle on other side of the car. Know someone with a tire mounting machine? Even if your tires were symmetrical you'd still need to get the inside edge to the outside so there's no easy solution without perfect alignment.

The S2000 is tire sensitive so you may need to rotate the rears by the same method.

-- Chuck

 

Without knowing your current alignment it is hard to suggest changes. Unless you are well over -3deg of camber, the fact that your outer shoulders are "much cooler" after a track session indicates you are not pushing the car in the corners and may be fine with just a UK spec alignment.

When I had a similar Ohlins suspension setup but with 255 square and a big front bar/no rear bar, I ran the below specs when paired with each use case.

I ran -3.5f/-3.1r camber. car got out on the street 2-4 times a month and saw 8-10 track days a year and I had pretty even wear.

I ran -3.1f/-2.7r camber when I daily drove the car with 12-15 autox events per year. If I ran one set of tires it was reasonable wear (a little more on the inside) as long as I rotated the tires. When I had a separate set of tires for daily duty I would cord the inside of the fronts before the rest of the tire was done, and the AutoX tires wore fairly even.

if I was pairing my driving with your use case., tire sizes, and stock sway bars, I would probably go with something in the realm of -2 to -2.5 front and maybe 0.1-0.3 less in the rear, with the UK spec toe settings.

 

The stagger makes it harder for me to input. Square setup tend to be the way to go on this car.

I run 255 square with 200TW tires so that is what I can base it off of

I am lowered close to an inch from stock. I have 750/600 spring rates, karcepts front bar and stock rear bar for reference.

-3.5degrees of camber up front, -3.1 in back. 6.9 degrees of caster, zero front toe, 3/32 rear toe per side. That is my current setup and has worked very well for me.

On stock adjustors (aka no offset bushings or adjustable balljoints) I was able to run -2.6 up front so ran -2.0 in rear for camber then. That worked pretty well but as I spent more time on track I wanted to add camber. I currently have offset control arm bushings to get the settings I have.

I have run caster maxed which was over 7.5 degrees and I did like it but felt that close to 7 felt better for me.

I also drive mine on the street some, albeit less than I used to but it does fine with my setup.

 

He has an AP2